I think I may have screwed up the toe...

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That is the nature of the Kibler SMR toe area since there is a built-in slight curve. When you position the toe plate in the inlet have you pressed the middle of the plate to see how much of a gap can be eliminated and how much the toe plate is disfigured by doing so? A slight bend in the middle may not be noticeable at all when filler of any kind may be much more obvious. Maybe post two pictures with the toe plate. One with it laying in place with no pressure and the next with you applying pressure at the low spot. It may not be as bad as you think.

That is a good point, and I was aware of it. But I thought I'd gone too far. I'll try and get the pictures as you suggested later.
 
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Good point @Trapper Scott. Since I haven't received my SMR yet (should be here Tuesday or Wednesday) I wasn't aware of the slight curve, never noticed it. I will plan my toe plate accordingly.
Mine had a very slight curve that wasn't really noticeable until I did the inlet. I thought I had taken too much out of the middle, but after measuring ten times I realized it was the stock. I'm one of those guys that measure 27 times and then take the cuts molasses slow. The trick is to put a screw in the middle first, then one on either end.
 
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While I was judging things, I felt like the plate was just a thousandth or so short. Enough to make me cut another. As I've carefully filed it down, I thought "this looks closer to the inlet profile". But while I was looking, I discovered the potential culprit?

It looks to me like the wood is just proud a little bit more on one side than the other. Given that I worked it from one side, that wouldn't entirely surprise me.

Hopefully I captured what I'm seeing in these pics.
 

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Looks to me that you just need to shorten the toe of the buttplate and the toe plate itself so they mate flush. I would carefully file the end of the toe plate until it lies flat on the inlet. Then file the end of the butt plate that now extends past the surface of the toe plate. Looks like the butt plate is holding the toe plate up off the stock. If you have a piece of scrap steel a couple of inches long, try filing a bevel on the end and lay it on the toe plate mortise and see if it is flat all the way down the inlet.
 

TDM

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@Birddog1911 I wouldn't take anymore wood off until you check the inlet surface with a straightedge. And as @garypl said the tip of the butt plate is going to need filing down. Hard to tell how much you've filed the bottom of the toe plate, but if you filed too much you may have to make another one thick enough to mount flush with the front inlet. I use a small 4"x2" metal square to check the inlet surface. If a straightedge shows more wood removal is necessary, try not to take too much off by the butt plate. When you have the inlet straight and square, try your old toe plate, try it in reverse, and try it upside down for fit. If that doesn't work a new plate is needed. Add a 1/8" to the length so you can slowly blend the end to the butt plate as you slowly file it down. Maintain a nice angle on each mating surface.
 
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Sorry, I didn't make it clear enough. This new plate is still a hair long. I'm waiting to remove some more till I figure out the inlet. I was mainly trying to show how the wood looks to be high on the one side. I'll check with the square.
 

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Sorry, I didn't make it clear enough. This new plate is still a hair long. I'm waiting to remove some more till I figure out the inlet. I was mainly trying to show how the wood looks to be high on the one side. I'll check with the square.
Yes, I see what appears to be the high side.
 
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From what I can tell you do have a low spot on this side. Once you file the end of the toe plate to fit the butt plate you will be able to tell more about it, or find you a shorter piece of something to lay down and it will reveal more of exactly where the problem areas lie. If this is the low side as I suspect, you will have two choices from what little I know about such things. Either even the inlet out bring the entire inlet to the lowest point you have and then creating a gradual slow taper at the comb end, or the second choice is to build up the low side like as TDM suggested. I made a feeble attempt to highlight the area I think is low but you will need to expand the picture to see it.
 

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Here's a couple of pics with the buttplate off. I think you can see the gap better. If it's not apparent, it seems that the low spot is more prominent in the right picture, the lock side.
 

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Col. Batguano

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Oh my that's quite the gap. How straight is the toe plate with the rest of the toe line?

I think I know how it happened. You used a file cross-wise in taking the surface down rather than lengthwise. You need to use a tool that engages the whole surface area at once when you're getting down close to the end depth. Be careful with the free end that you don't take more off there too and wind up with a bend in it.

I see another problem too. It looks like the tip of the toe is somewhat rounded off and not sharp. Again that probably happened from using your file cross-wise. I suggest leveling the whole totality of the toe plate area and then glueing a patch of wood that engages the whole area, and will fill that little hole that is going to exist at the pointy end of the toe plate. You're probably going to have to make another one too, because, from the pictures, it looks like it's going to be a little short.

In clamping down your wood patch, the BEST way to get it really clamped down tight is to use pan head screws with washers and little shims under the sides Or use your toe plate (with washers over it to keep it from bending upwards, and the shims. It'll be almost impossible to get clamps to engage without wanting to slip. The screws are going to come out anyway, and the holes covered so it's not a big deal to drill these new holes

Toe plates shouldn't be filed to their final lengths until they are fully fitted and installed--screwed down tight. You should also cut your inlets a little shallow so that when they are screwed down, they are a little proud to the wood. It's easy to file them down some as well as the screws. Just make sure you cut the screw slots a little deeper BEFORE you start filing them away!

Another reason for that is that it's about impossible to not cant the toe plate slightly from one side to the other if you're not using a jig. Filing it afterwards will take those couple of thousandths off the high side.

The wood is going to swell and get proud to the plate during the whiskering process too, so your engraving in the TP might need a little freshening up as well. The wood is going to move somewhat seasonally anyway, so it will NEVER be PERFECTLY smooth in the transition between the metal and wood. All you can ever do is get it really CLOSE to smooth for at least PART of the year.
 
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Flintandsteel

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Lower the high spots on the wood till the toe plate fits properly. You’ll probably have to file the buttplate to match.
It‘lol work just fine.
 
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