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Hunting Frocks/Shirts Documentation and Information

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Le Loup

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With respect, that depends on what persona one is portraying.

Please understand I don’t dispute the use of the Farmer’s/Waggoneers/Carter’s Smock/Frock as having been in wide use in the period, but the term “Hunting Shirt” denoted a difference between it and those other garments.

Neil Hurst mentions the first extant written documentation of the term “Hunting Shirt.”

“During the early years of the hunting shirt, the garment remained highly regional, blocked from the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains. Recorded in a will book from Augusta County at the death of one man named John Smith established the first written reference of the term hunting shirt in the eighteenth-century. At the death of Smith in 1759 without a will or heirs, the county clerk recorded an inventory of Smith’s possessions in order to pay his debts. The small inventory received an appraisal of twenty pounds, with his horse as the single most expensive item. Clothing constituted the majority of the recorded items and these garments included a jacket, coat, leather britches, leggings, shirts, and most importantly a hunting shirt. The will also listed a credit of thirty-one shillings owed to the estate from Captain William Preston.”

Note: I added the emboldening and underlining to the quote above:

http://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt

Now considering a County Clerk used the term in 1759, it must have been a common and well-established term at that time and demonstrates the term was in common use in the FIW period, where such garments were actually worn.

I believe one of the main differences between a “Hunting Shirt” and the Farmer’s/Waggoneers/Carter’s Smock/Frock was the Hunting Shirt was “open before” or IOW had a split front, which clearly differentiates it from most (if not all) period engravings/paintings of the other kinds of smocks/frocks from European Sources.

So the question then is, “Why was the Hunting Shirt commonly made “open before” or had a split front?” I suggest the answer is rather simple, unlike the Europeans commonly depicted, American Frontiersmen commonly rode horses. The Farmer’s/Waggoneers/Carter’s Smocks/Frocks usually depicted would be impractical to downright impossible to wear on horseback, with the exception of the short French Smock illustrated above. However, that smock is much too short to fit the period accounts of how far down the leg/thigh that Hunting Shirts normally were in length.

Gus
I have already covered this above Gus. The so called hunting shirt of the Revolution period is NOT the same as the frock, & the frock was worn by a variety of people in various trades/jobs.
Keith.
"This no doubt must be referring to the revolutionary period short hunting frock, which was never an undergarment, & therefore never a shirt in the true sense of the word".
Keith.
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2010/04/woolen-frock.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2008/03/mens-work-smock-frocks-17thc-18thc.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2009/10/authenticity-documentation.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/thoughts-on-wearing-shirt.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/more-on-french-frocfrock.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2012/05/common-frock-versus-american-revolution.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/french-clothing-in-new-world-part-two_12.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/french-clothing-in-new-world-part-three.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/10/thoughts-on-18th-century-shirts-and.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/french-clothing-in-new-world-part-four.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2011/03/1768-clothing.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2012/05/common-frock-versus-american-revolution.html
https://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/01/more-on-pre-revolution-frockhunting.html
 

Le Loup

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So the question then is, “Why was the Hunting Shirt commonly made “open before” or had a split front?” I suggest the answer is rather simple, unlike the Europeans commonly depicted, American Frontiersmen commonly rode horses. The Farmer’s/Waggoneers/Carter’s Smocks/Frocks usually depicted would be impractical to downright impossible to wear on horseback, with the exception of the short French Smock illustrated above. However, that smock is much too short to fit the period accounts of how far down the leg/thigh that Hunting Shirts normally were in length.

Gus

Smock is a 19th century term, perhaps after smocking was introduced, but if a man could not ride a horse wearing a frock, then a wagoner would not have been able to get onto a wagon, the frock was a working man's garment. Frocks came in a variety of lengths depending on who the frock was for, the seaman's frock was generally very short, but there are period paintings showing them wearing longer frocks.
1749-era-done-in-1775-John-Singleton-Copely-REDUCED.jpg

1749 era painted in 1775 by Copely.
a-harlots-progress-plate-i-william-hogarth-in-colour-DETAIL-of-horse-rider-REDUCED.jpg

A long frock being worn by this rider in a detail from A Harlot's Progress By William Hogarth.
Frock-horse.jpg

A living historian wearing a frock (no name supplied on this Pinterest image).
KH-1700-equip-4-REDUCED.jpg

This is my new frock, & as you can see it is roomy & has a slit up the side to allow for more movement. Contemporary writings refer to this frock as a shirt-frock to denote the style that is made on the same pattern as the 18th century undershirt (see Beth Gilgun's book).
Keith.
 
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1749 era painted in 1775 by Copely.
a-harlots-progress-plate-i-william-hogarth-in-colour-DETAIL-of-horse-rider-REDUCED.jpg

The above is an excellent painting. To me, it shows how voluminous the frock had to be to ride comfortably on a horse. Of course that voluminous of a frock would not work well in the woods/forest even when belted.

A long frock being worn by this rider in a detail from A Harlot's Progress By William Hogarth.
Frock-horse.jpg

A living historian wearing a frock (no name supplied on this Pinterest image).

Keith.

To me, that appears to be an "open before" or split front frock with the left side of the frock wrapped well towards his right side. Notice the difference in how the cloth hangs from each shoulder and the creases down from the left shoulder but not the right shoulder? The rather flat and folded front bottom of the frock also tends to show this is a split front frock. This is almost exactly the way my Philabeg (Short kilt) hung and looked from the front.

Gus
 
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Make it a little wider and all those problems go away. My pull-over linen smock is longer than that, essentially knee length, and I've done all those things in it without a problem.

Even regular shirts in the day were made a lot wider than today.

Spence

Actually, I made my buckskin Hunting shirt very roomy around the chest so I could wear at least one if not two more shirts (and one of those a woolen one) along with a waist coat underneath and not be tight when it was all worn. I did not tailor the waist nor hip area, but rather kept the pattern that wider width from the top of the shirt to the bottom.

Now perhaps if I had split the sides of the shirt as you did on an earlier photo you showed and as Keith has done on his, it may have been a different story when running fast or mounting a horse? I don't know as I didn't think to do it that way. I went with a back slit to go along with the slit down the front.

Gus
 

Le Loup

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The above is an excellent painting. To me, it shows how voluminous the frock had to be to ride comfortably on a horse. Of course that voluminous of a frock would not work well in the woods/forest even when belted.



To me, that appears to be an "open before" or split front frock with the left side of the frock wrapped well towards his right side. Notice the difference in how the cloth hangs from each shoulder and the creases down from the left shoulder but not the right shoulder? The rather flat and folded front bottom of the frock also tends to show this is a split front frock. This is almost exactly the way my Philabeg (Short kilt) hung and looked from the front.

Gus
It may well be Gus, but it is still a frock & not a Rev war hunting frock, plus as I said, a wagoner could not get up on a wagon if a wearer could not get on a horse. I will wager that most farmers road a horse at one time or another.
Keith.
Farmer-wearing-a-frock-2-REDUCED.jpg
 
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It may well be Gus, but it is still a frock & not a Rev war hunting frock, plus as I said, a wagoner could not get up on a wagon if a wearer could not get on a horse. I will wager that most farmers road a horse at one time or another.
Keith.
Farmer-wearing-a-frock-2-REDUCED.jpg

While that Farmer's Frock is also voluminous enough to ride a horse, it also is too voluminous to be practical as hunting garb in the woods/forests west of the Blue Ridge.

Gus
 
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I wish to state that I see no period reason or documentation on why a farmer’s/carter’s/waggoneer’s frock could not or was not used during the 18th century to hunt in.

However, it also seems very clear to me that 18th century people who very well understood the meaning of the word “frock” and who actually lived in the area where the then “new” kind of garment called a “Hunting Shirt” was first developed and those who knew them well, were very adamant that a Hunting Shirt and Frock were two different items of clothing.

The Clerk in Augusta County, VA in 1759 surely knew what a Frock was and he still recorded one article of clothing as a Hunting Shirt and not a Frock in County Records. This is elegant proof that even by that time, there was something different or unique about the Hunting Shirt that set it apart from the very common frock of the day and the term “Hunting Shirt” was well known in that County by that time. Otherwise, that Clerk would have used the older/more common term frock.

“From this point forward [after the 1759 documentation], an eight-year void exists in the documentation relating to early hunting shirts. The executors of John Smith’s estate lived in Augusta County and certainly knew the parlances for the garments they listed. The hunting shirt differed from the four other shirts listed and was worth a shilling more. Unfortunately, why those men chose to record the garment in that manner may be lost to history. The term hunting shirt would next appear not in a private context, but publically in a newspaper in 1768.

Sometime during the early Summer of 1768, two convict servant men sent to Virginia as punishment for stealing, decided to break their Indenture and run away from their Masters Robert Whitley and John Maxwell at the forks of the James River in Augusta County. [The same County the Clerk first recorded the term “Hunting Shirt” nine years earlier.] The owners paid for an advertisement in William Rind’s newspaper, The Virginia Gazette, and it appeared in print on June 23, 1768. Like most advertisements, the authors provided excellent description of the two men’s clothing in order to identify them. …..The other man George Wilkinson, stood about 5 feet 6 inches high, of a sandy complexion, and red hair. He had on when he went away, a new felt hat, a hunting shirt, and calico waistcoat, with old buckskin breeches, blue leggings and old shoes.

In 1770 and 1771, The Virginia Gazette published two other runaways from Augusta County, [Again the same County the Clerk first recorded the term “Hunting Shirt” in 1759] wearing hunting shirts, while at the same time the Pennsylvania Gazette published its first hunting shirt reference.

http://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt

So…..rather than NO documentation of Hunting Shirts prior to the AWI, there indeed were some and most from the actual area the Hunting Shirt was developed and worn.

Let’s go further forward in time:

J. Trumbull, adamant about the difference between the waggoner's frock and the venerable hunting shirt, served in a Connecticut Regiment and had the opportunity to serve adjacent to Morgan and his Maryland and Virginia riflemen in 1775. Here is what he wrote about it.

"Sir-

You expressed an apprehension that the rifle-dress of General MORGAN may be mistaken hereafter for a wagoner's frock, which he, perhaps, wore when on the expedition with General Braddock ; there is no more resemblance between the two dresses, than between a cloak and a coat ; the wagoner's frock was intended, as the present cartman's, to cover and protect their other clothes, and is merely a long coarse shirt reaching below the knee; the dress of the Virginia rifle-men who came to Cambridge in 1775, (among whom was MORGAN,) was an elegant loose dress reaching to the middle of the thigh, ornamented with fringes in various parts, and meeting the pantaloons of the same material and color, fringed and ornamented in a corresponding style. The officers wore the usual crimson sash over this, and around the waist, the straps, belts, &c., were black, forming, in my opinion, a very picturesque and elegant, as well as useful dress. It cost a trifle; the soldier could wash it at any brook he passed ; and however worn and ragged and dirty his other clothing might be, when this was thrown over it, he was in elegant uniform...which the battalion companies had adopted this rifle-dress of white linen with black straps and hats...the rifle-dress is loose, and the sleeves above the elbow loose like the ladies' dresses of the present day.. -.J.T."
[3]

Longacre, James B., and Herring, James; “The National Portrait Gallery of Distinguished Americans.” Volume III. Henry Perkins, Philadelphia. 1836

And:

"...They have besides a Body of irregulars, or rifle Men, whose dress it is hard to describe. They take a piece of Ticklenburgh, or Tan Cloth that is stout and put it in a Tann Vatt, untill it has the shade of a dry, or fading leaf, they they make a kind of Frock of it reaching down below the knee, open before, with a large Cape, htey wrapp it round the tight on a March, & tye it with their Belt in which hangs their Tomahawk, their Hatts as the others, and take their posts, to hit their mark..."[4]

-Silas Deane to Elizabeth Deane, 3 Jun 1775

Though Doddridge actually wrote the following later, he was referring back to the Pre AWI days when he wrote the following so that people who had never seen nor heard of the Hunting Shirt may understand the way it was made:

Here's the Doddridge quote:

"The hunting shirt was universally worn. This was a kind of loose frock, reaching half way down the thighs, with large sleeves, open before, and so wide as to lap over a foot or more when belted. The cap[e] was large, and sometimes handsomely fringed with a raveled piece of cloth of a different color from that of the hunting shirt itself. The bosom of this dress served as a wallet to hold a chunk of bread, cakes, jerk, tow for wiping the barrel of the rifle, or any other necessary for the hunter or warrior.”

Another later quote from Spence earlier in this thread, talking about the Hunting Shirt from someone who talked to people who had worn the Hunting Shirt or seen it worn:

Blane, WIlliam N., An Excursion through the United States and Canada, during the Years 1822-3 by an English Gentleman

pg. 111"The early settlers of Kentucky all wore the "hunting-shirt," which is still the common dress of the hunters and backwoodsmen. It is a kind of short loose doublet, reaching about half-way down the thighs, with an upright collar, and a small but full cape. It is kept together in front with two or three buttons or hooks; and is as loose as an English farmer's smock-frock, but is fastened round the waist by a broad leather belt, in which hang the tomahawk and hunting knife. Over the shoulder passes another belt, to which is suspended the powder-horn, and the fur-pouch for bullets and wadding. The hunting shirt is made of coarse blue linen, or (as they call it) linsey-woolsey, and is bound round the collar, cape, cuffs, and edges, with a red fringe. This dress, which is very commodious and serviceable, is one of the most becoming and elegant I have ever seen."


It is not just my opinion, but rather documented evidence the term “Hunting Shirt” was indeed recorded a number of times and by their own descriptions, certainly not a common or ordinary frock of the period.



Gus
 
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One thing I believe the Frock, that Keith and Spence have illustrated in this and other threads, has going for it is it is going to be better at retaining body heat compared to the "Open Before" or spit front Hunting Shirts that can allow drafts inside. This seems to me to be a real advantage during cool to cold weather.

I lost most of my resistance to cold in Somalia, where I came down with some kind of African disease, and have never gotten my resistance to cold back completely. So I have to think of things like this to stay warm when others are comfortable.

When I was doing a Private Soldier in the Black Watch, we had a British Artillery Unit with us. One of their men wore a frock, trousers and an interesting fore-and-aft cap as the fatigue (work) uniform, though he wore it all the time. When it was hot/humid, he wore the frock alone without a shirt under it and never seemed to over heat. Since I didn't do Artillery and never studied their uniforms seriously, I don't know if that was a correct fatigue uniform BUT there are illustrations of 18th century Artillery Drivers commonly wearing frocks.

Gus
 

EndoftheLine

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It's possible we don't have the exactly correct picture of the way people dressed in the 18th century. For instance, we all know nobody ever was seen in public in shirt sleeves, they always wore a coat, or at least a waistcoat, even in the hottest weather and while working, right? Maybe not always.

From England, 1795:
Harvesting at Windsor by Benjamin West 1795

Click on the picture to enlarge.

Spence
 

Loyalist Dave

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That's interesting being in England and almost the turn of the Century. Now in America, I would expect the laborers to be in trousers in 1795. Also the idea that "nobody" was seen in public in shirt sleeves..., well harvesting a field was not considered "in public"😉..., going from the field to the village square would've been, though. Nice detail of the woman in the lower right showing her wearing stays, and notice that the woman in the background, nursing a child, has no stays. It's pretty well documented in America that the different ethnic groups had different standards. German men were known to even plow without wearing a shirt, often had full beards, and German women didn't have the same rules about wearing stays as did their British neighbors.

LD
 

Brokennock

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That's interesting being in England and almost the turn of the Century. Now in America, I would expect the laborers to be in trousers in 1795. Also the idea that "nobody" was seen in public in shirt sleeves..., well harvesting a field was not considered "in public"😉..., going from the field to the village square would've been, though. Nice detail of the woman in the lower right showing her wearing stays, and notice that the woman in the background, nursing a child, has no stays. It's pretty well documented in America that the different ethnic groups had different standards. German men were known to even plow without wearing a shirt, often had full beards, and German women didn't have the same rules about wearing stays as did their British neighbors.

LD
Different places, different folks, different customs I guess, decency norms probably changed rapidly in some places and not so much in others.

I seem to recall a written description of a few men "haying" in New England post-revolution, they were in shirtsleeves but had coats at the fence line. When a woman passed by that the closest one to the fence knew, and she stopped to rest, he put his coat on before going to speak to her.
I wish I could remember where I read it.
 

DixieTexian

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I came across an article of clothing a while back that from across the pond that may share a common ancestor to the hunting shirt, or "hunting frock." do a google image search for "smock frock Wales," and you will find a garment that sometimes shares many attributes to the colonial American hunting shirt. the smocking on the garment is reminiscent of the pleating seen on the sleeves of the hunting shirt, and there are plenty of examples with capes. There are even a few you can find with capes and that are opened all the way down the front.
Now, they are completely different garments, but is it possible that they evolved from a common ancestor? The techniques involved in smocking the front of the smock frock would have been very similar to the techniques used to pleat the sleeves of a hunting shirt so that they weren't so bulky (as an aside, period resources for sewing patterns liked to use as much of the fabric as possible, so as to waste nothing. But they were still wasting plenty. They just left the waste on the garment in favor of easy to sew patterns. Hence the need for pleated sleeves to get the waste of of the way). Still, whatever precursor to the smock frock existed was unique enough that when the British, other European powers, and colonial Americans in the larger cities first encountered hunting shirts they were pretty novel.

Anyhow, it's just a wild theory, but maybe one that those inclined to do in depth research might want to spend a minute looking in to.
 
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I have sewn quite a few items back in the day and have used patterns from different sources and used a pattern to make my frock back in probably the late 80's or early 90's.

I say this in order to establish that was what was the standard frock circa 1990.

What was the standard frock in 1760-1790? did they have patterns? I do not know.

I do know that then as now there are a few people who can look closely at a garment and reproduce it almost exactly without a pattern, but how about those other people who got close but varied it either due to lack of skill or maybe the person it was being made for requested a little extra room here or there.

My personal belief is that if you could compare a dozen frocks from the revolutionary war period they would not all be identical and the lines between smock and frock were possibly blurred.
 

DixieTexian

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I have sewn quite a few items back in the day and have used patterns from different sources and used a pattern to make my frock back in probably the late 80's or early 90's.

I say this in order to establish that was what was the standard frock circa 1990.

What was the standard frock in 1760-1790? did they have patterns? I do not know.

I do know that then as now there are a few people who can look closely at a garment and reproduce it almost exactly without a pattern, but how about those other people who got close but varied it either due to lack of skill or maybe the person it was being made for requested a little extra room here or there.

My personal belief is that if you could compare a dozen frocks from the revolutionary war period they would not all be identical and the lines between smock and frock were possibly blurred.
If you look at period instructions for sewing up shirts, which follow the same basic patterns, there is a lot of emphasis on using up every bit of fabric possible, so as not to waste it. I would argue that it is still waste, just waste left on the shirt, but I guess we think differently than they do. Anyhow, since there was no set standard for weaving width back then, someone buying shirting cloth could end up with several different widths. Now, they could rearrange their pattern to try and use up all the fabric, but they also adjusted how big the individual bits were so that they could accomplish the same.

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