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humidity and the prime

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George

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Watching a recent video explaining a fellow’s method of hunting with a flintlock, he discussed what he thought was a problem with humidity and the prime. He said he changes his prime every 15-20 minutes all day long because the prime collected moisture just from the humidity. That got me thinking about how different my experience has been in that regard compared to what I’ve seen posted by dozens of people over the years. That seems to be accepted by a lot of shooters as a fact, but it has never been my experience.

It is also accepted that the finer the prime the worse the problem, but people who prime with the same powder as the main charge claim it is a problem for them, too. I’ve never primed with anything but 4F, either Goex of Hodgdon. I'm in Kentucky, and extreme humidity is common.

My deer hunt in 20011 is a typical example of what I experience. It was a foggy, misty day, with intermittent drizzle and light showers all day. I had to use my cow’s knee several times during the day. I was hunting with my flintlock smoothbore, large Siler lock and 4F prime. I primed at 0715 and shot my buck at 1430, more than 7 hours later. I checked the prime several times during the day, but never felt the need to change it. The shot which killed the buck seemed perfectly normal, no perceptible delay. That’s the performance I expect so long as I make absolutely certain the pan is clean and dry before priming, and that I keep even a speck of liquid water out of the pan

What am I missing?

Spence
 
I've always primed with 4F in the woods and even after hours in the pouring rain the prime did its job with no problem. I've never had to change the prime as long as the gun has not been fired. Even then wiping the pan thoroughly makes it good to go. Fouling does really soak up water but never had that happen with prime in an unfired gun.
 
When you shoot in humid conditions the slop from last shot can make a prime moist. In humid conditions wipe the pan. Dry well. Your prime should stay dry.
Fouling sucks up water like a sponge. Powder doesn’t.
 
The guy who made the video is the one that's "missing" the truth, Spence.

In a totally clean pan, the priming powder will not be harmed by humidity in the air.
If there is any fouling in the pan or on the underside of the pan cover, that fouling will suck up moisture from humid air and dampen the priming powder to the point that it won't ignite when the cock falls.

Here's a link to a test about this problem I did back in 2006 and posted the results here on the forum. The title is, "Is It Soup Yet?"

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/is-it-soup-yet.21066/
 
Here's a link to a test about this problem I did back in 2006 and posted the results here on the forum. The title is, "Is It Soup Yet?"
Thank you, Zonie, well done. I hadn't seen that because you did it before I joined the forum. I recall another test of the same idea posted later, but not who did it.

It seems safe to say that many experienced flintlock shooters have found that prime in a perfectly clean and dry pan will not absorb enough water on high humidity days to cause a problem.

Spence
 
I'm with you all....don't have problems so long as I keep pan and frizzen clean and dry between shots.

This thread reminds me of a good friend of mine that has continuous problems on very humid days, let alone while hunting in rainy weather. I believe I know the culprit of his soupy prime, but, he's one of those guys that simply won't listen.

You see, he grinds his prime down to a consistency much like dust. Starts with 3 or 4 fg and grinds it down. Doesn't stop until it could compare to talcum powder if it were black. In his mind, it speeds ignition to the point that he puts up with the no-flash effect more than any of his buddies.

My theory is that he's grinding the graphite from the grains of powder which may give a degree of protection from humidity. Please correct me if I'm all wet (couldn't resist the pun).

In any case, I've avoided the subject with him for years now.

Don't know about the rest of The Union, but here in Indiana, we recognize some folks are smart enough for two, but not enough for one! 'nough said...

Best regards, Skychief.
 
Spence, per your last post, That has been my findings as well. Priming powder in a perfectly dry pan that is kept dry will not be a problem in high humidity. I live in North AL and I do not have a problem as long as I do my part. I do make sure my priming pan is tight fitting and I do seal them with a very light coating of bees wax.
 
I like to prime from the horn, I use 3f, never had a problem. I made sure that my frizzen is flat where it covers the pan. I polished my pan with wet/dry sand paper on my thumb. I also use a waxed cows knee. Works for me.
 
I do make sure my priming pan is tight fitting and I do seal them with a very light coating of bees wax.
I make certain the rim of the pan and of the frizzen foot are perfectly fitted, but have never felt the need to seal it with lube, etc. I remember an excellent article by Peter Alexander, Gunsmith of Greenville County in Muzzleloader magazine from years ago which impressed me how important that is. He tested a bunch of commonly available locks to see how waterproof they were with the frizzen closed. He primed them, closed the frizzen, held his fingertip over the opening where the touchhole would be and submerged them in water for a timed one minute. He then shook them off and fired them. It was amazing how many of them fired normally after that. Let's hear it for snug frizzens.

That's all well and good for liquid water, but of course water vapor on a humid day will make it inside the pan regardless. It's a good thing that doesn't interfere with ignition even in extreme humidity. Not for me, at least. :)

Spence
 

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