How to loosen trigger guard screw: Pietta Remington '58

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I ran into a few problems when cleaning a newly acquired, used Pietta Remington '58 with a 5.5 inch barrel. First off, the arbor will not clear the ram latch. The screw that holds the trigger guard in place will not budge. I tried WD40 and a silicone lubricant. Nope. I tried tapping the screw driver with a mallet. Nothing. Then I tried heating up the screw with a soldering iron. Still no luck. I am being careful with the screwdriver, but I am now dangerously close to wrecking the head of the screw.
1) how do I loosen the screw?
2) where do I get a replacement if I screw up the screw?
3) how do I get the arbor all the way out on this short barrel?
Thanks for your sage advice.
 

bang

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IIRC you take the ram assy out then the arbor should come out.
Don't think a soldering iron will be enough heat. The amount of heat to work might damage the trigger/bolt spring. With nothing typical working I would put it in a padded vice and try a brass punch on the head and give it a good wack or an impact tool.
A replacement screw may be difficult to find. On numerous occasions I've had to make screws. The smaller ones are a real PITA to make. Might luck out and find something suitable at a good hardware store or gun shop. Check online for replacement screw kit. It will cost more but at least you'll get one.
 

bang

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IIRC you take the ram assy out then the arbor should come out.
Don't think a soldering iron will be enough heat. The amount of heat to work might damage the trigger/bolt spring. With nothing typical working I would put it in a padded vice and try an impact tool.
A replacement screw may be difficult to find. On numerous occasions I've had to make screws. The smaller ones are a real PITA to make. Might luck out and find something suitable at a good hardware store or gun shop. Check online for replacement screw kit. It will cost more but at least you'll get one.
Found some on fleabay, 7.50
Thanks Bang. I watched Blackie's video on the Remington New Army, and he showed how you don't need to take the arbor out. Otherwise you have to take out the latch plug, which can make more problems than I already have.
Here is a Pietta Remington screw kit. I ordered one just in case.
1858 Remington Screw Kit - Pietta
I've got both the 44 and 36. I'll have to check out the arbor. Could of sworn it would come out. But hey, at least it won't get lost.
 

bang

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IIRC you take the ram assy out then the arbor should come out.
Don't think a soldering iron will be enough heat. The amount of heat to work might damage the trigger/bolt spring. With nothing typical working I would put it in a padded vice and try an impact tool.
A replacement screw may be difficult to find. On numerous occasions I've had to make screws. The smaller ones are a real PITA to make. Might luck out and find something suitable at a good hardware store or gun shop. Check online for replacement screw kit. It will cost more but at least you'll get one.
Found some on fleabay, 7.50

I've got both the 44 and 36. I'll have to check out the arbor. Could of sworn it would come out. But hey, at least it won't get lost.
IMG_20220913_004430.jpg

Comes out on my 36
 
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Might be because my barrel measures 6.5 from cylinder. I thought it was 5.5.
All this time I didn't realize the 36 is 6.5 and the 44 is 5.5. Well I know now. LOL.
The original 44 had an 8” barrel. 36’s have either an 7.5 or 6.5 and the fantasy sheriff model is 5.5.
 

toot

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I got a stuck screw out once by putting a pencil soldering gun tip on it and after Maby 5 minutes it broke free, it worked for me, did no damage to the gun.
 

SPQR70AD

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The original 44 had an 8” barrel. 36’s have either an 7.5 or 6.5 and the fantasy sheriff model is 5.5.
I got the 5.5" 1858 sheriff model and really like it. not enough leverage to seat a ball with the shorter ram so I use a PVC pipe to extend it
 
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Heat it and apply Kroil. Let cool, heat again and re-apply Kroil when hot. Repeat half dozen times then soak in Kroil for days or weeks. Grind a screwdriver tip to exactly fit screw slot then have a go at it with gun in padded vise. Use impact tools with extreme caution lest you engrave your work. Good luck. This is part and parcel of working on old guns, motorcycles, cars, boats, engines, etc.
 
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It is not possible to remove the cylinder pin on a 5.5" Remington without removing the latch stud from the barrel and you do not want to go there with a Pietta. If you do remove the stud you would need to buy one for a Uberti and dovetail it into the barrel. Once you get the pin out there are some modifications one can make so that it will be removable. At least one mod is to the pin and another to the frame but I have never seen clear sketches on what is actually done. There is no real reason to remove the pin.
 
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Thanks for all the sage advice.
I got it loose, and took the gun apart. It really needed a thorough cleaning and polishing of parts. I soaked the tight screw for 24 hours in WD40. Using a new set of gunsmith screwdrivers I bought this morning the screw came right out. The replacement Remington screw set I ordered from Taylors is now on backorder, even though when I ordered it last night the website said it was in stock. Oh, well. I didn't bung the screw up too badly, but it'll be good to have an extra set on hand, whenever they show up.
Now to take it to the range.
 
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Thanks for all the sage advice.
I got it loose, and took the gun apart. It really needed a thorough cleaning and polishing of parts. I soaked the tight screw for 24 hours in WD40. Using a new set of gunsmith screwdrivers I bought this morning the screw came right out. The replacement Remington screw set I ordered from Taylors is now on backorder, even though when I ordered it last night the website said it was in stock. Oh, well. I didn't bung the screw up too badly, but it'll be good to have an extra set on hand, whenever they show up.
Now to take it to the range.
Forgot to mention, this is, as Bad Karma said, a 5.5 inch barrel, the fantasy "Sheriff's" model. I just left the ram latch alone, and it's a good thing I did. It came with a conversion cylinder, but judging by the cleaning patches I ran through it and the residue inside, it looks like it's only been shot with BP. The cylinder looks brand new.
 
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