• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

How to get dull finish browning a barrel ?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Let the browning solution work a little longer...it'll then lightly etch the bbl and yield a duller finish. I've used LMF on all my builds and never had one that was shiny.....FredView attachment 130571
I agree with this. I used LMF on my one and only ‘build’ (Kibler) and I can’t say it shines. It seemed ‘shiny-ish’ at the time after applications, but became dull over time. In fact (I’m looking at it on the wall as we speak) there’s a great contrast in the wood vs barrel with reflectivity, even though they share similar shades of brown.
 
Thanks guys, all very helpful. I especially all the pictures, it really gives me an idea of what to expect.
 
One more quick question, I have the higher humidity levels available , but the temperature is still upper 50's high, middle 30's low. Do I need more heat to get the barrel to rust ?
 
Anyone have info on when intentionally browning a barrel was introduced? Wondering if an "in the white" barrel on a 1770-period gun would oxydize on its own, given the humidity and heat down here in Florida?
Also wondering about how the salt spray air aboard 18th century sailing vessels would have affected such barrels?
 
Did the ‘flat’ one in the summer, 60-70% humidity, 80 degrees in my shop, 5 coats of Wakhon. The ‘shiny’ one was in the winter, 30% humidity, 50 degrees in the shop, 11 coats.
CFF3ADCC-148A-49BB-89E0-D2146BDD3C2A.jpeg
22A4B68B-E6EE-42A1-88C7-A0CC4C3C0D9A.jpeg
22A4B68B-E6EE-42A1-88C7-A0CC4C3C0D9A.jpeg
 
I card with a dry piece of denim and don't rinse, the denim pulls off all the rust. I don't use just one piece for a carding because the rust smooths and fills the denim weave, I may use 5 or 6 denim patches for each carding, I use both sides of the patch and swap them out when a patch get dirty. The only time I rinse is when I am neutralizing after the rusting process.

I brown outside in the winter sometimes if the temperature is in the 40s or 50s, as long as it is humid outside and above freezing the temperature doesn't seem to matter.
 
I card with a dry piece of denim and don't rinse, the denim pulls off all the rust. I don't use just one piece for a carding because the rust smooths and fills the denim weave, I may use 5 or 6 denim patches for each carding, I use both sides of the patch and swap them out when a patch get dirty. The only time I rinse is when I am neutralizing after the rusting process.

I brown outside in the winter sometimes if the temperature is in the 40s or 50s, as long as it is humid outside and above freezing the temperature doesn't seem to matter.
40s and 50s above, that would be summer, right?
 
The patches I use aren't that wet and approx half way down the bbl, the patch gets some more LMF. W/ subsequent coats, the half way stop points are varied.....the stop points are not evident when the bbl browning is completed. The LMF is very forgiving.....Fred
 
The patches I use aren't that wet and approx half way down the bbl, the patch gets some more LMF. W/ subsequent coats, the half way stop points are varied.....the stop points are not evident when the bbl browning is completed. The LMF is very forgiving.....Fred
good to know, 34" barrel will be a long stroke with one patch.
 
Okay, I got the LMF barrel browning solution in and ready to start in the morning so I have the weekend to stay on top of it. I have two options for rusting locations; under my back porch, humidity level measured at 85%-93% at 40* to 45*F or in my barn at 60%-70% at 45* to 55*. I assume the higher the humidity the less time between coats ?
 
Read the instructions a couple times before starting. The ammonia advice given above is good at shutting down the process. I find LMF works well for browning and rust bluing.
SDSmif hit the nail on the head [as did others]. Use Laurel Mountain Forge {LMF}. Read and follow the directions. 180 grit is good, leaves a dull finish. Dale
 
All is going well , just carded off the third and final coat after 6 hrs. under the porch. Got pretty smooth, even, medium brown finish. Letting it hang in the barn over night then card and hang again. Will I see the color getting darker and darker after each rust and card session ? Just curious on when to stop rusting/carding and neutralize and oil.

Also, if after I oil I want to go darker, can I degrease and add another coat and rust/card more ?-Thanks
 
I quit rusting when I like the color and before any pitting starts. After you neutralize, heat the barrel and oil it the color will darken to a deep brown.

You can clean a part with lacquer thinner and re-rust, I have done it on small parts but never a barrel but have touched up a place or two on a barrel where I got a scratch installing sights, it all blended together well.

My rusting continued after neutralizing for a while on all my barrels after the first which stopped immediately.

I have posted this picture before, the barrel settled out at just the color I wanted, it was neutralized 3 or 4 times, heated and oiled and is still rusting a little after a month. It took about 6 weeks to completely stop rusting, the color didn't change, there was never any red rust visible, just a little showing on a denim patch when I carded the barrel.

browned 002.JPG
 
It was a success ! I ended up doing three coats of the LMF browning solution,letting it hang under the back porch (about 90% humidity) for 4 hrs. , carding with denim and repeat. After the last coat and carding I let it hang for 6 hrs. , then card, then hang and card three more times.

Color looked good so I neutralized and rinse, Heated the barrel to about 180* and applied a thick coat of used motor oil. I let it set for 48 hrs. Wiped it down really good and was amazed at the finish; a nice dark chocolate brown with a hint of purple is certain lighting. Finish was that dullish matte, similar to a light parkerized finish. I heated again just to warm it and applied a coat of Johnson paste wax. Gave it a really nice "glow" to the color.

I couldn't be more satisfied with the results. I want to thank all of you for your advice and patience with all my newbie questions, it was very helpful and informative.
 
Back
Top