• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

How to barn tan leather?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GoodRabbitPilgrim

Do Not Live in America
Joined
Jan 3, 2021
Messages
446
Reaction score
579
As a kid I did some rough skin on hide tanning in bark but it was more a miracle than anything that it worked.

I'd really like to get into making my own leather for shooting patches, creating knife sheaths and a shooting bag, belts etc.

Does anyone have a how to for this or some reference material they've used previously?
 
I tanned a deer hide thirty thirty fives ago.
Bought a kit mail order that included all the chemicals for removing the hair and tanning the hide. After tanning, the hide while still wet, was dyed with Rite Dye. Then rubbed with neatsfoot oil until supple.
My youngest son still has a large piece hanging around.
The only labor part was scraping the hair off and removing any flesh/fat that may have been left behind when skinning.
If memory serves and to illustrate how far back I think the kit came from a Herters Catalog. 😊
Kits are available on line.
 
True bark tan takes time. And is some work. Chem and salt can be in one to two weeks. To shoot patching for your gun a brain tan is real fast. A little slower and pretty easy is alum-salt

That was just an example, I'd like to do other things with it too. Brain tanning I know nothing about, any resources relating to that would be appreciated.
 
Brain tan the Sioux way was the book I learned with. Crazy Crow should have it
Brain tan is how most primitive peoples tanned skin. The green skin is stretched as far as possible often on a frame, then the hair is scraped off, all the fat and membrane on inside scraped off too.
An animal fat, often boiled brains was used, hence the name, though tallow or lard or beats foot oil work well, was rubbed in to both side of the hide. It then taken off the frame and kept moist over night. One can cover it with wet towels or even soak in a bucket of water.
The next day re stretched and as it dries you ‘work the hide’ you want a baseball bat sized branch of wood with a screwdriver or axe shaped but rounded end three or four inches wide and from both side you go all over the hide in every which direction stretching and relaxing the skin.
This is the hard part as you have to stay dedicated to the job. And on a warm day it take three or for hours to dry.
When done and DRY it’s velvet soft and ivory white.
Now you make a cone of dowels or saplings and hang the skin on it. In side the cone you make a small very smoky fire.
I used to have two so three white hides and smoke them at once. I would make a pit. Build a fire in it. Dig a small trench and put the cone over one end. Cover the fire and let the smoke go through the trench and out through the cone. Turn and move the hide so you get it all smoked. The longer you smoke the darker it gets.
Hickory or sumac makes a grey color, oak or walnut makes a brown, cedar smells real nice and pine too, makes it a yellow.
From animal to leather is three days.
The green skin can be fleshed on the inside then put a a non metal water container with hardwood ash and water for a couple of days. This will cause the hair to slip and you can scrape it off with a knife leaving a smooth side.
Then you can make a five gallon non metal bucket and make a solution of Kosher salt or sea salt and alum. One pound BP per gallon each. Soak the hide in that. Twice a day pull the hide out and then replace so as to have no folds where the solution isn’t getting too well. After a week or so cut an edge of the skin. It should be white all the way through if done. If not it will be white on the edge and gray in the center. Do this at a thick side like the neck. Just to be safe go a couple more days.
Pull out. Rinse with water and let hang over night. In morning when stlll damp ‘break the hide. A 2x4 with a flat sharped edge that half buried in the ground and high enough to work back and forth over works well, and continue to work skin over until dry, about two to three hours. Then treat with neets foot oil.
Bark tanning takes several months.
You need a non metal trough, water proof pits were dug in the old days I used a fiberglass water trough. This need be done in warmer weather.
The inner bark of oak is used and shredded layer about an inch thick is laid in the bottom. Skin laid out and covered with the bark. Have in a sunny spot, cover with water you want a thick black bark tea. Leave it about six months.
Your solution is too high in tannic acid for bugs to grow in it. Keep a couple of buckets of bark tea handy to add as the trough evaporates, don’t add just pure water.
Place this down wind of your house as it smells strong of the bitter tannic acid. Tanneries were built down wind of town.
When done, pull out wash and treat like the alum tan. This makes the strongest leather
Get some books
And watch some you tube vids.
Lot of work but it is fun.
 
Back
Top