• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

How does this look

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ZDC

32 Cal
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
49
Reaction score
91
Decided to refinish the stock of my flintlock. First time trying to do this.

Stripped the old poly and stain, restained and am trying to decide between linseed oil and polyurethane.

Here is what I got so far.

Looking for feedback on what you guys think I should do and how I am doing.

IMG_20230420_213747190_HDR.jpg


IMG_20230420_213734094.jpg
 
Looking good. What stain is that? As to finish its all up to how much time you want to put into it. Poly is fast, impervious to moisture and builds quickly, but doesn't repair easily if scratched. Drying oils take more coats are less moisture resistant when cured but are more easily repaired if damaged. Your call.
I personally don't like thick finishes on firearms but prefer linseed oil, even considering the time involved.
 
When doing the finish myself, I prefer oils in general, boiled linseed oil in particular. Polyurethane is a superior finish it you want to protect the wood, so I don't usually strip it.
 
i just finished stripping 7 coats of poly from a beautifully figured Turkish walnut stock. may be worth someone's life to suggest poly to me at the moment.
if you want more protection for the wood, do a rubbed BLO and then when it is cured wax it with a good furniture wax or even paste car wax.
I prefer Renaissance wax.
 
Looking for feedback on what you guys think I should do
You should do, what you want to do. (period)
You've already used Minwax, so follow their instructions.
In one photo the Color looks good, the other is too fuzzy to show anything,
, use a top coat that you want, and just don't "hurry" the job.
If you want something to last for years, there's no need to have it finished in 2 days.
 
You have a nice piece of wood and the color you picked is dandy, BUT the sanding has rounded all the edges. To get the best results from your efforts sanding back with backing blocks on the paper to get crisp lines will make a much more handsome stock.
 
Hi,
Try using both. Mix 25% polyurethane, 25% raw or boiled linseed oil, and 50% mineral spirits or turpentine. You may like the result and it will penetrate deeper than poly and show any figure in the wood. These are some guns finished years ago using that mix. Note it can be shiny or a bit more satin depending on the number of coats. This is a finish in which you apply to the wood with rag or brush, let sit for 10-15 minutes, and then wipe off completely, and I mean completely in every nook and cranny. If you apply it outside on a hot day, you may need to wipe it off after only 5 minutes.

AQP54bX.jpg

QjH4mfs.jpg

11TUSbq.jpg

RYbbtd7.jpg

FJkul0s.jpg

iTcMSs6.jpg


dave
 
Last edited:
i just finished stripping 7 coats of poly from a beautifully figured Turkish walnut stock. may be worth someone's life to suggest poly to me at the moment.
if you want more protection for the wood, do a rubbed BLO and then when it is cured wax it with a good furniture wax or even paste car wax.
I prefer Renaissance wax.
i just finished stripping 7 coats of poly from a beautifully figured Turkish walnut stock. may be worth someone's life to suggest poly to me at the moment.
if you want more protection for the wood, do a rubbed BLO and then when it is cured wax it with a good furniture wax or even paste car wax.
I prefer Renaissance wax.
I’m with you 100%. If you’re looking for traditional, historically correct stay away from poly. It’s great for table tops not so great for flintlocks (in my opinion).
 
Hi,
Try using both. Mix 25% polyurethane, 25% raw or boiled linseed oil, and 50% mineral spirits or turpentine. You may like the result and it will penetrate deeper than poly and show any figure in the wood. These are some guns finished years ago using that mix. Note it can be shiny or a bit more satin depending on the number of coats. This is a finish in which you apply to the wood with rag or brush, let sit for 10-15 minutes, and then wipe off completely, and I mean completely in every nook and cranny. If you apply it outside on a hot day, you may need to wipe it off after only 5 minutes.

AQP54bX.jpg

QjH4mfs.jpg

11TUSbq.jpg

RYbbtd7.jpg

FJkul0s.jpg

iTcMSs6.jpg


dave
good grief Dave! you have me sinning so early in the morning! multiple sins! lust, envy, and coveting.
 
Back
Top