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How do I secure the ramrod in my T/C hawken?

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I fixed this problem with my Renegade (assuming your ramrod is threaded on the non-flared end) by using a ball removal screw the same diameter as the rod and stabbing and pulling it loose in the bottom of the ramrod channel to "drill" a partial pilot hole for the worm end. Lube the machine screw end, apply glue to the worm end, stab and screw it into the end of the channel, let the glue dry,,, unscrew the rod. After loading screw the rod back in it's place. The rod will stick out a little more a + IMHO.
 
Although I didn't ask the question, I have the same problem, "thank you for the advice."
Be aware that since 2006 when this thread was started, and today, T/C no longer has parts for the sidelock guns.
T/C today is not the same T/C company it was back then. New Owners.
Track of the Wolf has the retainer spring, as does The Hawken Shop.
 
Wow talk of old thread resurection!
Didn't realize until I noticed a post from roundball!!

I saw that. Post #19 asked the question again and there are now several "fair price" sources for parts. Cannot say the same for some of the eBay sellers refereed to back in 2011 posts. The TC parts situation is pretty good right now.
 
I used to be relatively active in the forum, but life has pulled me away. I am popping in and lurking a bit now. Roundball used to be prolific in the forum. Where did he go?
 
Have seen a number of ways other than a spring to retain rod in the field. The use of a small pin or lip at the end of the underrib that retains the rod. I think they either shortened rod slightly or deepen rod hole on TC's. Fairly slick as rod had to be bent down a bit to remove rod. Care needs to be taken not to damage rod over time. Seen shotguns with slight under rib groove/notch that the edge of ramrod tip fits into. Lastly is a threaded piece installed at rod bottom. Think they use one of those screws with a wood threads on on end and machine threads on other. Most TCs have a threaded end. Slowest of above but secure as heck. The shotgun lip thing really works on a dead run chasing a pheasant to the end of a long ditch.
 
Some original rifles had tapered ramrods. I use tapered ramrods and tapered (decreasing in size from muzzle to entry thimble) after a canoe trip from Colorado to Fort des Chartres. All the guys trade guns ramrods swelled up and stuck to the pipes. Any ramrod sticking out beyond the muzzle will change the point of impact on the round. For hunting if I use a rod with a combination patch jag and cupped ball loader it is used in practice and site in, too. The replacement coated fiberglass rods put out by Dixie and Track will stay in with a big enough rod tip. I have a TC White Mountain that I replaced the factory rods with hickory or ramin. It is a good short pull rifle for beginners to use and light and short to carry.
 
Remove the nose cap. Turn upside down and Trace on piece of leather. Then before you cut it, Trace the reamed diameter at the entry point on the leather so the leather is tight on the reamed. Cut out and reattach.
IMG_20200220_204214326.jpg IMG_20200220_204207974.jpg .
 
Down near the end of the under-rib, right in front of the nose cap, there should be a little tiny leaf spring that keeps tension in the ramrod to prevent that.
Its either missing, broken, or has been flattened some and simply needs to be gently bent outward a little to put pressure on the ramrod again.
I used a pair of pliers and bent the leaf spring just a little and it worked great. "Thank you Roundball!"
 
I keep a supply of old flat springs on the shelf. I have repaired the TC problem with a hack saw blade cut and shaped for the purpose. Remember to curve the spring up as not to dig into the ram rod on exiting.
 
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