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How did folks maintain firearms in the tropics during the 18th century?

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Gunny5821

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The interiors of wooden kegs and barrels were coated with beeswax, for both liquid as well as dry goods. Do some of your own research, find the earliest printed U.S. Army Ordnance Manual, it will tell you everything you need to know about the preservation and maintenance of military, arms, ordnance, wagons, limbers, and carriages. The earliest manual I recall was 1796. I'm sure the British printed publications regarding the same for all climbs and places.
 
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Unlike wooden chests and boxes the thing about wooden barrels is that even heavy ones can be easily rolled by one or two men and when stored they had air spaces around them to let them breath , also they were very strong and could be standardized for volume , weight etc .
The Spanish Conquistadores took matchlocks to to South America , the Indian sub continent used matchlock rifles before the British arrived with flintlocks .
I have read where some British Soldiers in the Peninsular Wars ( Napoleon in Spain ) killed an Ox and eat the beef and boiled the shin bones and feet, but not the hooves, to make neat's-foot oil to oil their Bess's and used brick dust to scour their muskets bright . The were whipped ( lashed ) for minor offences including having rust on their weapons so they kept everything as clean as possible .
 
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And tropical waters were notoriously rough on wooden ships, which is why East Indiamen rapidly adopted copper sheathing on hulls when it became available. Point stands, the tropics are hard on equipment, be it wood, cloth, metal, etc.

The USS Constitution doesn't reside in the Indian Ocean.
The copper sheathing was to discourge barnacles and sea worms from boring into the planks. The sheathing wasn't watertight so if water caused the problems, it would continue to do it under the copper sheath. The Constitution did sail into the Caribbean Sea.
 

user 56333

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The copper sheathing was to discourge barnacles and sea worms from boring into the planks. The sheathing wasn't watertight so if water caused the problems, it would continue to do it under the copper sheath. The Constitution did sail into the Caribbean Sea.

Yes, and teredo navalis (ship worm) was a far bigger problem in the tropics than in colder waters. For one thing, they tend to be larger. A ship worm in the Baltic can typically be 8-12 inches, while in the tropics they can be as big as 20 inches. Point stands, everything is worse in the tropics.
And spending one cruise on the tropics is different than an entire career there.
 
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No. Wooden powder kegs were used on ships for centuries. You can't get in a more corrosive, damp environment than that. It takes longer than you think for wood to rot. Gun stocks were linseed oil/varnished. You aren't talking untreated soft woods when you talk about gun stocks. Wooden kegs and wooden barrels likewise were made of hardwood.

I think you have exaggerated in your mind somewhat the rotting factor. If kept in constant contact with the drip, drip , drip of water most untreated soft wood rots rapidly. These were neither.

Long term (years) storage was a different matter, but powder was used relatively frequently.

River runners, as Lewis and Clark were, needed something more water proof and durable and had a second purpose for the kegs, but generally lead kegs were heavy and unwieldy.

Food was carried in wood barrels also and you don't read about them rotting away in 3 years or so time that they carried them on whaling expeditions.

From what I've read the Lead kegs were small and easily Man portable, often the size of a large Powder Horn so the Powder could be decanted and the lead Keg flattened out for moulding Balls. Obviously a very practical and efficient modus operandi.
 
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White oak, what barrels were made of, is very resistant to rot. Other hardwoods, not so much excepting perhaps teak and rosewood... which were far to valuable for barrels.

Keeping wrought iron from rusting is not such a difficult thing to do, I have wrought iron cooking implements that regularly get used in my kitchen, I coated them with wax when I made them and have been watching ever since for any sign of rust. Thirty some years now and no rust... though I do not live in the tropics. You start adding carbon to that iron, though, and resistance to rust drops considerably.

I would suppose that constant vigilance is the only way to care for a gun in tropical environments. Anybody here from the Philippines, Brazille, Hawaii or a sub-Saharan African country? I would guess that gun care today isn't much different than it was in days of yore in those places... other than haviing to use something other than whale oil for lube/protection.

A good percentage of my 37 years Army service was in SE Asia, and I can testify that our weapons of all classes were cleaned and oiled at least twice every day, seven days every week, every month of every year.
Back in the Black powder propellant day I'd say it would have been at least that, if not more after a fire fight or hunt.
 
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You didnt mention Scrotum itch and Crotch rot , its very common in the tropics....
Experienced these things at Fort Polk, LA in 1975. After we all had a good case, Drill Sergeant Harris told us to go "commando"... though he didn't put it quite that way.

M16s & M60s got cleaned at least once a day when they were issued to us and when they were in the arms room they were heavily coated with LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms), which was state of the art gun "oil" of that era. Actually, it was more of a grease than an oil. This was later replaced with CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative)... something we know today as "Break Free".

We didn't generally have any rust issues with our weapons at Ft. Polk, though to be fair, they had aluminum receivers, fiberglass stocks, chrome-lined bores and any steel parts were Parkerized. Black powder guns would have been much more susceptible to corrosion.
 

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Dale, thanks again for the great story you wrote and sent a copy to me. I’ve enjoyed it once and will again. Take care, Mark
 
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I think some are missing another point about the barrels. The ships were also made of wood. The USS Constitution has planking that is over 200 years old.
Not too much, only about eight percent of Constitution is original, it’s unlikely Victory has any original wood in it, it’s about forty years older then Constitution
 
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The tropics are arguably one of the worst places to keep a firearm in working order, the combination of heat and humidity can accelerate things like rust/corrosion on metal and rot in wood. I'm curious to know what methods folks used to keep their guns working in tropical conditions during the 18th century. This question isn't just limited to maintenance of the firearms themselves, but also of the powder and shot, as well as any info regarding transportation/storage of firearms.
When I was younger, we used brontosaurus toe jam for an all purpose lube. Now, after the big cold spell, I use Barricade.
 
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Experienced these things at Fort Polk, LA in 1975. After we all had a good case, Drill Sergeant Harris told us to go "commando"... though he didn't put it quite that way.

M16s & M60s got cleaned at least once a day when they were issued to us and when they were in the arms room they were heavily coated with LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms), which was state of the art gun "oil" of that era. Actually, it was more of a grease than an oil. This was later replaced with CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative)... something we know today as "Break Free".

We didn't generally have any rust issues with our weapons at Ft. Polk, though to be fair, they had aluminum receivers, fiberglass stocks, chrome-lined bores and any steel parts were Parkerized. Black powder guns would have been much more susceptible to corrosion.

We got a lot of American accessories back in the 70-80's, "LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms" if that was the white coloured oil like grease that was supplied for the M60 GPMG's and M16's then we called it "Spoof oil" it was the bees knees.

Ref "go Commando" we learned the hard way in SE Asia, I still don't wear any form of under clothing to this day.
 
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Yes, and teredo navalis (ship worm) was a far bigger problem in the tropics than in colder waters. For one thing, they tend to be larger. A ship worm in the Baltic can typically be 8-12 inches, while in the tropics they can be as big as 20 inches. Point stands, everything is worse in the tropics.
And spending one cruise on the tropics is different than an entire career there.
Copper also stops marine algal growth and lets the ship sail faster , Copper based paint used on boat hulls is now banned in most countries as it leaches out into the environment
 
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Is that something like a creosote? One of my dad's professions was commercial fisherman. He used to dip his nets in this creosote like stuff to prevent rot. Worked really well and made them stiffer, which in turn made them easier to handle in and out of the water. Once it dried though, it would not rub off and get all over your clothes like creosote does.
The "tar" I mentioned, yes, I believe so, as I have read it described.

One example that sticks out is the man in York, Pennsylvania, accused of being a "Tori" during the Revolution. Some hot headed towns people wanted to "tar and feather" him on the State House steps. (Yes, YORK, PA) As is the case with most blowhards, none of them would do the actual dirty deed. So they forced (?) him to attempt the act himself. He started to rub the "tar" on his chest and arms. The crowd quieted and dispersed except a few young boy who threw feathers at the victim as he too left. If this was "hot TAR" as we know it today, there is no way this man would have been able to start the process! BTW, the man was not really a "Tori", he just did not want to serve in the Army or pay the "tax" (supply provisions/ supplies/ money).
 
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In regards to old sailing ships and 'tar' it was not the 'hot tar' or the black tar most seen today.
It was Kiln Burnt Tar, the best (and still made in Sweden today) was Stockholm Tar. It is golden in color, I dont know but perhaps may have had other grades back in the day.

The Stockholm Tar (kiln burt same as it was hundreds of years ago) is runny, like lacquer, and slow drying.
Was used mostly on natural fibers (ropes, canvas, etc) to prevent rot on ships.
I have also used it on felt hats and have a canvas belt bag I treated about 10 years ago; it dried stuff but like good brain tan softened back up with use. Water still beads and rolls off of it, as does my hat, just don't touch the bead or like a tent it will soak in.
"sailors describe this grade of tar in words usually reserved for fine wines and tobaccos."

This tar is Not like what you get from feed stores for treating Hoof Rot in livestock and not like the black tar you see used on most ships today...its better, well for what it was purposed for anyway....and I have used it on wood as well, but not on firearms....yet..

It can still be gotten at
Tarsmell.com
 

Gunny5821

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In regards to old sailing ships and 'tar' it was not the 'hot tar' or the black tar most seen today.
It was Kiln Burnt Tar, the best (and still made in Sweden today) was Stockholm Tar. It is golden in color, I dont know but perhaps may have had other grades back in the day.

The Stockholm Tar (kiln burt same as it was hundreds of years ago) is runny, like lacquer, and slow drying.
Was used mostly on natural fibers (ropes, canvas, etc) to prevent rot on ships.
I have also used it on felt hats and have a canvas belt bag I treated about 10 years ago; it dried stuff but like good brain tan softened back up with use. Water still beads and rolls off of it, as does my hat, just don't touch the bead or like a tent it will soak in.
"sailors describe this grade of tar in words usually reserved for fine wines and tobaccos."

This tar is Not like what you get from feed stores for treating Hoof Rot in livestock and not like the black tar you see used on most ships today...its better, well for what it was purposed for anyway....and I have used it on wood as well, but not on firearms....yet..

It can still be gotten at
Tarsmell.com
Thanks for the info, interesting site. The tarred Marline is interesting, I wonder if it remains tacky? I acquired a huge spool of braided linen cord, about 1/8" in diameter, it's very hard. I have used it for wrapping the shaft of a spear and it takes linseed or TruOil very well, but takes a long time to dry. It would be interesting to use the Marline for wrapping wooden handles if it dried in a reasonable amount of time.

You're correct about the pine tar hoof dressing. I keep it on hand for taking care of our horses hooves, but it smells to high Heaven, worse than any tar I've ever smelled.
 
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Thanks for the info, interesting site. The tarred Marline is interesting, I wonder if it remains tacky? I acquired a huge spool of braided linen cord, about 1/8" in diameter, it's very hard. I have used it for wrapping the shaft of a spear and it takes linseed or TruOil very well, but takes a long time to dry. It would be interesting to use the Marline for wrapping wooden handles if it dried in a reasonable amount of time.

You're correct about the pine tar hoof dressing. I keep it on hand for taking care of our horses hooves, but it smells to high Heaven, worse than any tar I've ever smelled.
Their rope and twine is Great to work with! Harder the paracord but paracord is for beginners.
No it does not stay tacky, it's really over tacky to start with, in my opinion, and after a month or so of handing it loose all tackiness.
It's great for wrapping handles and once it 'sets' it is SOLID.

These are just a few handles I have wrapped, the swords done several years ago and have had MUCH use, there is no way you can unwrap them now, it would have to be cut off...NO GLUE was used at all, not even on the Turks Heads (but a few blisters and calluses created tightening them!).

Compared to the black tar sold for livestock, I find Stockholm tar a much Sweeter smell, still pungent at first, some don't like it, others find the smell desirable. But it loses the original strong smell in a couple weeks and you have to put your nose right up to it to smell it.

The wraps in the photo Still have 'smell'; the swords now about 10 years, the bag axe only about a year now - all three you will not smell if in the room but put your nose to them you can catch a hint of sweetness...almost like sweet grass.

My felt tricorn has been treated twice, at first I would walk in the room (restaurant, bar, etc) and heads would turn, after a month people would have to get right next to me before saying "What is that smell?"

Tarsmell.com also has a Stockholm tar Hand Conditioner and Soap for those of us who like the smell - I Love the smell.
 

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