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Hoppe's Number 9

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FatBack

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I tried a search, no results. I shoot cap and ball, always used it. Seems to work good. Anyone else use it? Should I not? If so, why and what should I? After cleaning, i use air tool oil. I dont often shoot it.

Any advice and input, is appreciated.
 
You may find an equal product, you wont find a better.

(water works good too)

Range time cant be beat, hunting can dry up over a day afield.

Last order I got was either Amazon or Midway??

Getcha some (and water works too)
 
I wash my pistols in hot water with a splash of Dawn and scrub with wet and then dry patches; I then swab with Hoppe's #9 inside and out and lube the arbor with bore butter or Crisco or hog lard, depending on availability. Hoppe's works great for short term care; longer spells need a thin grease or olive oil.
 
Anyone else use it? Should I not? If so, why and what should I? After cleaning, i use air tool oil. I dont often shoot it.

Any advice and input, is appreciated.

I Don't use it,
I wouldn't use it, it contains some nasty chemicals.
My advice, use something to clean it that won't kill you. Muzzleloaders aren't rocket science and don't need harsh chemicals to clean. Just my opinion.
 
I haven't use a variety of patch lubes, just #9 and mink oil, I can load and shoot balls patched with #9 and not have to swab between shots, with mink oil I can make it about 10 shots before I have to stop and swab the bore because of the built up crud. I used bore butter years ago but haven't used it in a long time, too much crud.

There was some discussion a while back as to whether leaving a #9 patched ball in the bore would cause a rust ring. I may leave my rifle loaded the entire deer season if I don't get a shot, I use mink oil on my hunting loads to be on the safeside.
 
I used it for patch lube for a while but found that when a thorough cleaning was done and the bore dried with patches, the dry patches started to pull a brownish greasy substance from the bore. I stopped using it and the problem went away.

And no, I was not using hot water. :)
 
I regularly see Hoppes Black Powder Solvent on the shelf at the local Sportsman's Warehouse in the muzzleloader section.
Lucky you, we have a gun shop (very sparse on ML stuff) and a WalMart, other than that, its about a 40 mile drive to the nearest, larger city.
 
I Don't use it,
I wouldn't use it, it contains some nasty chemicals.
My advice, use something to clean it that won't kill you. Muzzleloaders aren't rocket science and don't need harsh chemicals to clean. Just my opinion.

I agree.

Warm water works so supremely well for dissolving the black powder fouling, and is basically free, and is totally non toxic and safe, and doesn’t smell like an overripe banana. Ones own moisture of the mouth also works great as patch lube and has personally solved a crud ring issue for me, no funky carcinogens or overpriced snake oil for me! I also like to use a natural animal’s fat for lubing, such as bear’s oil, just as the old timers did and it’s also totally safe.
 
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Ed's Red - for final cleaning and storage....works great on all of the items in the collection .. Especially on the revolvers. It works fine for the barrels and locks on the rifles for keeping the rust away. Beats the heck out of Hoppes 9 IMHO and is made with stuff I have around the house which I keep for a variety of other things. I add lanolin and have also taken the standard Ed's Red recipe and added a bit more tallow and beeswax to make a thin paste for a no freeze patch lube.....
 
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Depending upon what the patch on a round ball was loaded up with...

Can lead and iron set up a bi-metallic galvanic cell?
Well, I don't know.
 
I started using the Hoppe's 9 blackpowder solvent about 40/60 with water. It works really well for me. I don't wipe between shots at all. I'm using .445 balls with a .018 patch in my TC hawken. I don't use it for cleaning, only for my patch lube. I had to go to something that isn't flammable for the summer rendezvous'.
 
Lucky you, we have a gun shop (very sparse on ML stuff) and a WalMart, other than that, its about a 40 mile drive to the nearest, larger city.
Sorry about mis-reading your original post, I read it as you were looking for a resource to get it and thought I'd mention a place I find it. I now see that you were asking about results with it. Oh, and the "muzzleloader" section at Sportsman's Warehouse isn't anything to be sorry you don't have local...unless you only shoot .50 cal and want a lot of options for the newer unmentionable types that is. There is a bit of .54 stuff, but you're SOL if you own even a .45 let alone some other caliber.

I have no complaints about Hoppes BP solvent at all. Before a local muzzleloader club dissolved (and before I realized my rifle has to be swabbed no matter how tight the patch fit is or accuracy goes bonkers), I used it at the shoots all the time without swabbing. The rifle portion was only 11 shots, but as far as ease of loading swabbing wasn't necessary at all. My rifle also shoots pretty accurately with it as long as I swab every other shot. Accurately enough to make the metal targets clang anyway.
Do shake it up well if it's been sitting a while or else it kind of separates. If you pour it without shaking it seems to have some thicker, darker colored "sludge" come out along with some lighter more runny liquid. Haven't seen that as long as I remember to shake it well first.
I only wanted it for a liquid patch lube for the range or club shoots, but I did try adding a dab of it in water when cleaning. I ALWAYS get flash rust if the water is even warm let alone hot, but it didn't change anything and cleaning was no different than just water and a drop of dish soap, so I abandoned that idea.
If the chemical make up of it bugs you, I had pretty good luck with Birchwood-Casey #77 as a liquid patch lube too. Of course it could contain some nasty chemicals too for all I know, I haven't looked at the SDS for it.
 

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