• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Home-made cap results

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
1,823
Reaction score
2,085
Location
N.C. and elsewhere
Using the Sharpshooter22 kit I made 200 caps in 4-batches of 50. I used a store brand diet soda can (if it matters). After cutting strips of aluminum I punched the caps so the painted side of the can was inside the cap (it says so in the directions). I then mixed the 4-part powder per directions. I used a metal capful of acetone with 3 big drops of Duco cement stirred well to drizzle a drop in each cap. You need to replenish the metal capful to get through making 50 caps. After applying the drop I waited 5-minutes. Then I tamped down the powder in the cap. Set out overnight to dry.

I made 50 that appeared 1/3 full in the cap, 50 that appeared 1/2 full in the cap and 50 that were more than 1/2 full ( but not all the way full). The last 50 I had my son's help and did not tell them how much to fill the caps so the amount would be somewhat random. Going slowly it takes 15 minutes to do 50 caps start to finish - not including the overnight drying.

At the range I decent results. I used 25 of each on the first outing. There were 7 fail to explode out of 100. Noteworthy is that each one of these had an obvious bald spot on the bottom center of the cap inside. In other words, a lack of powder on the floor of the cap cup. I'm not sure how they got there, because there were some in each batch. I think when I tamp down the powder some stuck to my stick and came back out. So first lesson, if there is a shiny bald spot in the cap it probably wont ignite.

I fired a few without a load and some with a load Each batch fired off regardless of the amount of powder that was in the cap. The least amount of powder sounded a little weaker than the other amounts, however the other amounts all sounded the same. They all ignited Goex FFFg powder. Second lesson is to fill the cap at least 1/2 or a little more for peace of mind that it would go off strong.

Next I noticed that some caps were tighter on the nipple than others. I think this is some "spring back" that the aluminum does. They are very easy to pinch with not much resistance. Lesson 3, pinch the caps on the nipple for snug fit.

Surprisingly, the aluminum cups were almost all in tact. No exploded cups, cup fragments or damage. They were opened up a little, like a jelly-fish shape or a bell. Squeezing them put them back into shape and they probably could be used again but I'm not going to try that now.

Last thing was that there was a reddish-brown tint left on the nipple. This coloration came right off with a swab dipped in windex and rubbed by hand. It did not cause a problem at the range. At home I used the windex swab to see if it came off easily and it did. I did clean the nipple thoroughly my usual way as well as the rest of the rifle. After putting it away, I checked it every other day for the rest of the week. The reddish did not reappear.

Based on just 200 caps and half of them fired, I have to say they work pretty darn good. Honing my assembly techniques based on what I learned at the range should increase reliability. I will say that I don't see how you can get over 2000 caps put together with the amount of powder supplied (although that is what the directions claim). I can see 1000, maybe a little more. I'll see how many I get and report that. Either way, the powder is like $25 delivered so even 1000 caps is an okay price at todays rates. The time to make them is kind of tedious but it is satisfying to DIY in spare time. I would not wait until the day before range time and want to crank out a bunch. It is a slow process and I personally did not find it relaxing but rather edgy. My opinion is that they are best made in small batches of around 50 when you have nothing else to do, not distractions and don't "need" them ready real soon.
 
Thanks for the info. I have the same cap maker but haven't made any caps yet. I bought some Parris branded cap gun caps to try in the caps produced by the cap maker. They seem to be pretty reliable from what I saw on youtube. I also have the primer mix from the same company and when I have the time ( and gumption) I will attempt making some caps. Hopefully with good results.
 
I have had nearly identical results with my capmaker caps. I actually prefer them to store bought on my revolvers, they seem to be soft enough that any that fragment dont seem to jam up the works.
 
good detailed post with easy to follow directions, you should be a paid advertiser for them.
 
Good report. Always nice to a positive result. I think that if you tamped the powders down before wetting,you will like it better. When I use the Duco cement/acetone binder,it's one drop in a tablespoon of acetone. Works fine for me. Three drops could make for more binder than needed. There are other binders to use just for fun. I'm even using Elmers school glue mixed with water as a binder. One drop of that in a teaspoon of water. This could work for hundreds of caps. I only make small batches of caps at any one time . Do you weigh your powders or use the scoop that comes with the kit? Using the kit scoop as instructed would only make for 15 to 18 for me.I didn't think that I was using all that much.
n.h.schmidt
 
Is it possible to make them sized to a choice of #10 or #11?
I personally have found them to be closer to #10 size, but they easily stretch out and firmly grip all the nipples I have tried them on. While I was waiting on delivery of my capmaker, I bought a 4f nipple charger, thinking the caps would be weak, and need the extra boost of some priming powder.....completely wrong, all that did was add extra fouling to the nipple and flash channel. When filled 3/4 full with dry mix, these caps leave nothing behind. Also, as n.h.schmidt stated above, I prefer to press the mix while dry, then add the drop of acetone/duco cement. The only failures I have had were from light strikes from colt cap jams on my revolvers
 
Last edited:
Using the Sharpshooter22 kit I made 200 caps in 4-batches of 50. I used a store brand diet soda can (if it matters). After cutting strips of aluminum I punched the caps so the painted side of the can was inside the cap (it says so in the directions). I then mixed the 4-part powder per directions. I used a metal capful of acetone with 3 big drops of Duco cement stirred well to drizzle a drop in each cap. You need to replenish the metal capful to get through making 50 caps. After applying the drop I waited 5-minutes. Then I tamped down the powder in the cap. Set out overnight to dry.

I made 50 that appeared 1/3 full in the cap, 50 that appeared 1/2 full in the cap and 50 that were more than 1/2 full ( but not all the way full). The last 50 I had my son's help and did not tell them how much to fill the caps so the amount would be somewhat random. Going slowly it takes 15 minutes to do 50 caps start to finish - not including the overnight drying.

At the range I decent results. I used 25 of each on the first outing. There were 7 fail to explode out of 100. Noteworthy is that each one of these had an obvious bald spot on the bottom center of the cap inside. In other words, a lack of powder on the floor of the cap cup. I'm not sure how they got there, because there were some in each batch. I think when I tamp down the powder some stuck to my stick and came back out. So first lesson, if there is a shiny bald spot in the cap it probably wont ignite.

I fired a few without a load and some with a load Each batch fired off regardless of the amount of powder that was in the cap. The least amount of powder sounded a little weaker than the other amounts, however the other amounts all sounded the same. They all ignited Goex FFFg powder. Second lesson is to fill the cap at least 1/2 or a little more for peace of mind that it would go off strong.

Next I noticed that some caps were tighter on the nipple than others. I think this is some "spring back" that the aluminum does. They are very easy to pinch with not much resistance. Lesson 3, pinch the caps on the nipple for snug fit.

Surprisingly, the aluminum cups were almost all in tact. No exploded cups, cup fragments or damage. They were opened up a little, like a jelly-fish shape or a bell. Squeezing them put them back into shape and they probably could be used again but I'm not going to try that now.

Last thing was that there was a reddish-brown tint left on the nipple. This coloration came right off with a swab dipped in windex and rubbed by hand. It did not cause a problem at the range. At home I used the windex swab to see if it came off easily and it did. I did clean the nipple thoroughly my usual way as well as the rest of the rifle. After putting it away, I checked it every other day for the rest of the week. The reddish did not reappear.

Based on just 200 caps and half of them fired, I have to say they work pretty darn good. Honing my assembly techniques based on what I learned at the range should increase reliability. I will say that I don't see how you can get over 2000 caps put together with the amount of powder supplied (although that is what the directions claim). I can see 1000, maybe a little more. I'll see how many I get and report that. Either way, the powder is like $25 delivered so even 1000 caps is an okay price at todays rates. The time to make them is kind of tedious but it is satisfying to DIY in spare time. I would not wait until the day before range time and want to crank out a bunch. It is a slow process and I personally did not find it relaxing but rather edgy. My opinion is that they are best made in small batches of around 50 when you have nothing else to do, not distractions and don't "need" them ready real soon.
I know this is an older post but I have some info on making caps that may help. First off get rid of the cream colored powder. mix the other powders as described. I use a drop of denatured alcohol in each cup after putting in the powder. Set aside and let dry. They dry pertty quick. Then in an old medicine bottle i fill about half full with water and aprox. A teaspoon or so of clear elmers school glue. Put on lid and shake to mix glue and water. Once powder and alcohol is dry in cup, put a drop of glue/water in cup and let dry overnight. I have got 100% ignition in all the guns i have used these on and they dont have a tendency to plug up the nipples like they did when i used that cream colored powder.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top