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Hole Sizes for Loading Blocks

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OldNo7

36 Cal.
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
171
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Location
Southern Maine
I've tried various search combinations, but can't find a post listing the recommended hole sizes for loading blocks.

:surrender: I give up, and need some help...

Is there one here "somewhere"?

Thanks!

Old No7
 
One thing to know about using that chart-

It's a good starting point, but of course fit in the block is going to depend on the details of patch thickness and actual ball diameter.

More often than not I find the balls are slightly tighter than I like, especially with a little roughness in the wood from drilling.

At the very least I wrap a piece of fine sandpaper around a dowel and "polish" the sides of the hole a little. If it's still too tight (I've actually split pine blocks, the holes can be so tight), I use a rattail to enlarge the holes a little.

There's kind of a fine line between too tight and tight enough to keep the balls from dislodging, but with a little fiddling you can (and will probably have to) adjust the holes slightly.

BTW- If the sides of the holes aren't finished, they'll tend to soak up lube. First time you push a lubed combo into a hole it's going to seat harder than it will later with lube oozed into the grain. I'm in the habit now of rubbing the inside of the holes with lube before testing ball fit.
 
Agree with BB.
Final fitting, sanding is often required.
I rub the inside of the holes with beeswax before use.
Beeswax, duct tape and WD-40. The world would stop spinning without them. :rotf:
 
I like to make my holes about .010 to .015 over the land to land dimension ( usually the caliber ). I do this by drilling a hole close to size and then finish with a slotted tapered dowel rod in the drill press wraped with sand paper. ( The dowel is wraped, not the drill press )The taper allows for easy loading yet firmly holding the patched ball. :idunno:
 
I like to make my holes about .010 to .015 over the land to land dimension ( usually the caliber ). I do this by drilling a hole close to size and then finish with a slotted tapered dowel rod in the drill press wraped with sand paper. ( The dowel is wraped, not the drill press )The taper allows for easy loading yet firmly holding the patched ball. :idunno:
 
I like to make my holes about .010 to .015 over the land to land dimension ( usually the caliber ). I do this by drilling a hole close to size and then finish with a slotted tapered dowel rod in the drill press wraped with sand paper. ( The dowel is wraped, not the drill press )The taper allows for easy loading yet firmly holding the patched ball. :idunno:
 
The easiest way for me is to take a cheap "speed Bore" type bit and file the sides abit smaller. Measureing as you go. Test drill some scrap and try your ball and patch combo. If too loose file the sides of the drill bit some more. Remember .005 per side makes the resulting hole .010 smaller. BJH
 
If you sand the hole too large you can shrink it again by building up several coats of Birchwood Caseys stock sealer.
remember to stain the wood before you apply the sealer or the stair won't be absorbed into the wood where the sealer was applied.
 
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