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help with trigger

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THE WOODS OF S.C.
I didn't know where to post this, I don't see a gunsmithing section. I have a jaeger flintlock with Davis double set triggers. I pulled it out yesterday and when you cock the hammer all the way it will not catch, you can feel it far an instant then it falls. I took the lock out and cocked it and it works perfect. the triggers look ok. I put in the lock and adjusted them and the only way the hammer will hold is if I set the rear trigger then cock it, it will hold until I pull the front trigger. any ideas will be apprecheated,,,,,,,,,
 
The adjustment screw for the trigger lever that trips the sear is set too high. Back the screw behind the front trigger out one full turn and try the triggers.

1590594579945.png

Photo from RE Davis web site: RE Davis Company | "Jaeger" Double Set Trigger

By the way, Gunsmithing is in the Gun Builder's Bench as you scroll though the forum.
 
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I have had this gun for about 10 years with no problems, I shot is about a month ago with no problems I have tried adjusting the trigger. I will tinker with is some more,,,,,,,,,
 
I had same issue a couple months ago when installing Davis Deerslayer in my Lyman GPR. I called them to confirm, but all I had to do was file down the very top of the trigger, the piece that contacts the lock. There’s a fitment procedure...maybe this will help as it helped me...

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/catalog/page_352.pdf

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/davis-deerslayer-in-lyman-gpr.120423/
thank you, it has to be contacting the sear and putting pressure on it. I have never had a problem with it before, but wood swells and moves things right along with it,,,,,,,,,,,
 
thank you, it has to be contacting the sear and putting pressure on it. I have never had a problem with it before, but wood swells and moves things right along with it,,,,,,,,,,,
No problem. Like you, I had a hard time because it seemed like a drop in for everyone on here. Reading those instructions made it more clear for me, that way you can set the screw properly
 
I have had this gun for about 10 years with no problems, I shot is about a month ago with no problems I have tried adjusting the trigger. I will tinker with is some more,,,,,,,,,
Have you tightened the tang bolt? Or, have you tightened the trigger plate? That can pull the trigger deeper into the trigger mortise, raising the trigger lever. You can try to loosen the tang bolt. You may need to put a shim under the trigger plate to lower the lever. Try making a ship from a business card to slip between the trigger plate and the stock mortise for the trigger.
 
If turning the trigger adjustment screw didn't help, maybe try a temporary shim under the back end of the trigger plate before you start taking off metal, just to bring the rear trigger "knife" down a little.

I think you said it works all right if you set the triggers first, but this was not necessary until recently... Correct? The wood may have "moved," as you suggested. However, just for discussion's sake, I have handled a number of old percussion rifles that could only be brought to full cock with the triggers set. It was the way they were made. I don't think any of the dozen or so I have taken apart had "double phase, double knife" triggers, which are pretty much the norm, nowadays. Most had single-phase triggers (had to be set to cock the hammer), no half-cock notch in the tumbler, and no fly. I doubt this is the case with your modern-made jaeger, though.

If it were me, I would experiment a bit with screw adjustments and shims before doing anything irreversible.

Good luck with that! I hope you'll keep us informed and let us know what works. I hope to learn something from this.

Notchy Bob
 
I haven't messed with the tang screw. it has not been turned since I put it together. I know from experience if the lock screws are to tight it can cause pressure to be put on the sear and the trigger won't stay locked in place. but in this case I can push the lock in and hold slight pressure on it and cock it and it still won't stay cocked. but if I cock it and then put it into the mortise it will stay cocked. I may file a bit on the sear to give it clearance and relieve the pressure,,,,,,,,,
 
I got it! just want to thank you boys for the help! behind the set trigger there is a tiny Allen screw, i knew the problem was the set trigger after fiddling with it, so I gave it a half turn in and that adjusted the rear set trigger and bam! that fixed it. I didn't realize it had an adjustment also,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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I got it! just want to thank you boys for the help! behind the set trigger there is a tiny Allen screw, i knew the problem was the set trigger after fiddling with it, so I gave it a half turn in and that adjusted the rear set trigger and bam! that fixed it. I didn't realize it had an adjustment also,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Far out! I didn't know the Davis triggers had that feature. Good to know!

Notchy Bob
 
Far out! I didn't know the Davis triggers had that feature. Good to know!

Notchy Bob
Not all of them do. I have several Davis double set triggers that don't have a screw for adjusting the position of the mainspring.
No. I don't know which ones do and which ones don't. I ordered my set triggers a long time ago.
 
I routinely install one. It might have been done by the builder. Even though I call myself more of a stock hacker instead of a builder, I can drill and tap a hole. ;)
 
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