Help with lock

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Bbtech73

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I acquired they Lyman .50 GPR in a trade a few years ago. I have another flintlock I use so this one sat around until recently. It has about a 40% failure to fire rate. I took a close look and noticed gap between the barrel and the lock as shown in the pictures. The cock is also scraping against the stock. I may be able to remove enough wood to make it seat better but was curious is replacing the lock might be a better solution.
n. cock.jpeggap.jpeg
 

pilot

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I have the same issue. I will probably add some epoxy to fill the gap.
 
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Looks as though that lock has not been in-letted to it's final depth, the gap at the bolster needs to be closed up (in contact with the barrel) and also looks as though some wood needs to be removed behind the cock. As it stands now that rifle is unsafe to shoot as pan priming powder can work its way between the lock and barrel and ignite blowing the lock off.

If this type of work is beyond your skill set you can locate a competent muzzle loader gunsmith to do the work, try to refrain from doing any bubba type fixes as it makes it more difficult to do a correct repair, you typically need to undue the bubba fix first.
 

Feltwad

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This is a common problem on some repros ,I have found it is best to solder a thin shim to the side of the lock plate and file to the contour of the pan etc . This will solve the problem but do not use a too thick a shim because it may alter the engagement of the sear leg to the trigger .
feltwad
 
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What ApprenticeBuild said is spot on, it really is not that difficult to remove some wood and get that lock tight up against the barrel. It's not like your fitting up a new gun and have to locate the bolts and lock to touchhole etc.

I use prussian blue from the auto parts store (one tube lasts like two lifetimes) or steal some of the wifes lipstick (but don't blame me!) to find the high spots and then just shave off a little wood. Probably do it in just a couple of hours.
 

Bbtech73

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Thanks. I will work at removing wood to get the lock to seat correctly. I pulled the lock and it doesn't look like it would be a lot of work. I have some small wood chisels and a Dremel tool.
 

hawkeye2

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Dremel tool = "try to refrain from doing any bubba type fixes as it makes it more difficult to do a correct repair, you typically need to undue the bubba fix first." :)
 

SDSmlf

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Thanks. I will work at removing wood to get the lock to seat correctly. I pulled the lock and it doesn't look like it would be a lot of work. I have some small wood chisels and a Dremel tool.
Put the Dremel away. Not only is it not needed, it will create more problems with the speed it will cause damage.
Use something like Prussian Blue or lamp black on the back of the lock so you can see where it is hitting wood when you put it back in the lock mortise. Carefully remove the slightest amount of wood with your sharpest small wood chisel where it is marked by the Prussian Blue or lamp black, barely removing the marking. Repeat until the lock is flush with the barrel. It doesn’t take much to have the lock fully seated. You will also need to remove a bit of wood where the cock is hitting stock. Again, remove a little at a time until you are where you need to be.
 

Bbtech73

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Put the Dremel away. Not only is it not needed, it will create more problems with the speed it will cause damage.
Use something like Prussian Blue or lamp black on the back of the lock so you can see where it is hitting wood when you put it back in the lock mortise. Carefully remove the slightest amount of wood with your sharpest small wood chisel where it is marked by the Prussian Blue or lamp black, barely removing the marking. Repeat until the lock is flush with the barrel. It doesn’t take much to have the lock fully seated. You will also need to remove a bit of wood where the cock is hitting stock. Again, remove a little at a time until you are where you need to be.
Thought the Dremel might work to remove wood where the cock is scraping. I will be extremely cautious.
 

SDSmlf

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Thought the Dremel might work to remove wood where the cock is scraping. I will be extremely cautious.
Flat sharp chisel worked by hand is all you need or want to use. Less than a minute’s effort for a smooth flat surface. The list is long of those attempting to correct damage caused by a Dremel. Fast material removal capability is not your friend for finish work.
 

Grenadier1758

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In theory, use of a Dremel tool would be fast and easy to remove a little wood and a perfect fit would be soon obtained.

Everyone says they will be careful in the use of a Dremel tool.

In practice, use of a Dremel tool will end up removing far more wood that you want and can turn several hundred dollars worth of stock into firewood.
 

Robby

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Thought the Dremel might work to remove wood where the cock is scraping. I will be extremely cautious.
Thats what they all say! Really, it is a simple job and can be done in ten minutes with a rat tail file or even a dowel with some coarse sand paper wrapped around it and finished with son-m finer paper. Less risk than the Dremel and will do a better job.
Robby
 

dave_person

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Hi,
You are going to run into a series of issues as you move the lock in to the barrel. The plate will likely sit too deep in the stock and you will have to sand away the extra wood around the lock to make the stock flush with the lock plate. Second, you will have to remove wood so the cock clears the stock. What you have with that gap is a very dangerous condition. The powder flash could start wood within the lock mortice burning making it dangerous to prime your gun for the next shot. I cannot believe anyone would sell a gun like that.

dave
 

MrMackc

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Dave, many bad white mans sell gun that he don't like because how it had been goofed up !

Dremel tool go around and around very fast making round dent into stock, use small hand chisel going back and forth, back and forth make small flat dent in wood, sand paper on file make little bitty oblong dent in wood.....eyeball say OOOPPPPSS!
 
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