Help with a .36

[William Sublette]

I traded for a cool .36 percussion this weekend.

I assumed it worked. It may still.

At a gun show, so had a zip tie on the hammer.


The hammer won't stay cocked in half or full.

I pulled the set trigger and it set. Then I let it down, and now it won't set in any fashion.


I took the lock off, it looks pretty new, not much wear that I can see.

Works perfectly outside the stock.

Says "L. CARVER" inside the lock.

Could someone have went to all the trouble to make an otherwise nice gun, and given up at the lock installation part of it?

Or

Is there something broke?

 

[TDM]

If the lock sets properly at half cock and full cock and releases with sear pressure outside the stock then your problem is wood interference with the sear, or the lock tightened down too much causing interference, or the trigger group is out of adjustment. Take the trigger group and adjust the set trigger spring until you get a reasonable degree of resistance, then adjust the front trigger to a light, clean break. But not so light to allow a jar or bump to trip the sear.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I think the set triggers are the issue. Note the adjusting screw is missing and the trigger bar is showing high in the lock mortise. That bar should be low in the hole for the sear bar so the main spring maybe out of adjustment. The trigger is bearing on the sear not allowing the lock to work when in the rifle. Sort out the triggers first.

 

[William Sublette]

The set trigger is seemingly extra hard to pull, or move.

I assume I adjust by turning a screw in or out?

 

[david w]

I think the set triggers are the issue. Note the adjusting screw is missing and the trigger bar is showing high in the lock mortise. That bar should be low in the hole for the sear bar so the main spring maybe out of adjustment. The trigger is bearing on the sear not allowing the lock to work when in the rifle. Sort out the triggers first.

Those are my same thoughts. You need to replace the set screw.

 

[TDM]

The set trigger is seemingly extra hard to pull, or move.

I assume I adjust by turning a screw in or out?

Loosen the screw on the set trigger spring to lighten the pull to set.

 

[TDM]

I traded for a cool .36 percussion this weekend.

I assumed it worked. It may still.

At a gun show, so had a zip tie on the hammer.


The hammer won't stay cocked in half or full.

I pulled the set trigger and it set. Then I let it down, and now it won't set in any fashion.


I took the lock off, it looks pretty new, not much wear that I can see.

Works perfectly outside the stock.

Says "L. CARVER" inside the lock.

Could someone have went to all the trouble to make an otherwise nice gun, and given up at the lock installation part of it?

Or

Is there something broke?View attachment 190511 View attachment 190512 View attachment 190513 View attachment 190514 View attachment 190515 View attachment 190516 View attachment 190517

The set screw on the front trigger is missing as mentioned but that’s only going to give you a harder front trigger pull. It does need to be replaced for fine tuning the pull but I don’t think thats your problem right now.

 

[French Colonial]

Show us a picture of the inside of the lock with the hammer at full cock, with the hammer down it looks ok but really can not see the sear engagement.

But I am with the others, probably a trigger issue, the set trigger should not be all that hard to move.

The trigger assembly is not that hard to take out for inspection.

 

[William Sublette]

I took it apart some more last night.

The triggers work fine out of the stock.

I had to set the triggers, and cock the hammer to get the lock back in the stock.

It works pretty good before I start putting the big lockplate screw in.


Except I have to pull the set trigger first, then half cock, and full cock work just fine. That's new to my experience. The rest of my rifles you cock the hammer, then pull the set trigger.


Does the stamp on the trigger bar tell me where to start on finding a screw?

 

[david w]

The stamp has nothing to do with choosing the screw. Most set screws have the same thread pitch. When you buy a new screw, keep in mind you MAY have to file off a it of the length for proper fit.

 

[EC121]

Those are the old North Star single acting, double set triggers. Unless you put a screw under the mainspring, you will have to set them to get the lock in or have the hammer work at full and half cock. The missing screw changes the front trigger engagement for more or less creep. It won't do much for the force required to pull the front trigger. You would have to change the front trigger spring to do that.
The missing screw is likely a 6-40. Track of the Wolf sells them in the trigger section.

 

[William Sublette]

Well thanks to all you guy's generous help, I was able to get this rifle working.

I finally got a day off and had time to slow down and think about things.

The cure was to loosen the set trigger screw. It was bottomed out, and was so strong it wouldn't let that bar in the lock touch the the trigger.

Like pushing up on that bar like the trigger was always pulled.


Now I need another day off to go shoot it.



Thank you guys for the help.

It's appreciated.

 

[William Sublette]

Post in thread 'What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?' What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

I live a mile from an historical town here in Kentucky. When the Ohio Riverboat Sternwheeler folks stops by ol' Washington KY for a tour, I volunteer to host the tour of a living history log cabin built in 1787.
I had about 50 guests in 3 waves stop by today.

This fellar on the left just could not pass up the chance to hold that gun….

 

[Rob M.]

Well thanks to all you guy's generous help, I was able to get this rifle working.

I finally got a day off and had time to slow down and think about things.

The cure was to loosen the set trigger screw. It was bottomed out, and was so strong it wouldn't let that bar in the lock touch the the trigger.

Like pushing up on that bar like the trigger was always pulled.


Now I need another day off to go shoot it.



Thank you guys for the help.

It's appreciated.

Very cool , good job ! Enjoy !

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

Getting ready for another tour.
Spent the afternoon at the Mefford House ( built 1787 )
giving tours to 35 of the Ohio Riverboat guests in town.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

L. Carver is for Leonard Carver.

I have a rifle with a large Siler that was built by Mr. Carver.

 

[Sooty Scot]

While you are sorting your problem(s), give the lock a thorough cleaning. The old grease may not be contributing but it isn't helping either.
You don't need to take the lock apart. Just spray it with either warm water and a bit of soap or rubbing alcohol and scrub gently w/ a toothbrush. Dry it well (compressed air is easy but a few minutes in a warm oven will work as well.
When it's dry, put a LITTLE light oil or graphite powder on the pivot and contact points.
Smears of grease, like it shows in the pictures, only attracts and holds dirt/grit, to wear the moving parts and slow the lock action.

Enjoy learning the care & feeding of your new gun. It looks good.

 

[Hermit Tim]

Sounds like you got it mostly worked out. That's great. Looks like a fantastic rifle to tinker with.

 

[TRGRHAPY]

Post in thread 'What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?' What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?