Help Fixing Up Inherited Muzzleloaders

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davidmc62

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You can use a lot of the aftermarket parts from TOW or others, you may just have to spend some quality time with files to get the parts to fit the CVA. As far as safety using a smaller pin goes. I'm no authority, but the only thing those pins do is hold your stock to the barrel. Not sure there is a safety issue associated with that. But again I'm no authority on these matters. Just an old Muzzleloader who happened to have a more artistic vision of where to go with the CVA.
 
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It never fails to amaze me how helpful and nice everyone is here! Thank you so much!

It's been a while but here is an update on the Kentucky (also should I be posting all of this in the builders forum?)

Ordered all the parts I need from Deer Creek.

Fixed up the trigger pull based on everyone's advice here: Messed around with the set screw and polished anywhere that metal contacts metal. It's pretty good for now but I may get back in there and do a little more polishing

Cleaned up the barrel to 300 grit and I'm more and more convinced this was never fired.

Started polishing all the brass hardware (I have a affinity for self punishment via step sanding and mirror polished brass.)

Rifle is completely disassembled and I'm now fixing up the stock joint. The holes for the stock joining pins weren't originally drilled straight so I plugged them up and plan on re-drilling today. (The two stock pieces wouldn't line up straight due to the angled holes)

Next step after that is to drill out the barrel pins.
Be careful with the adjustment screw for trigger. I had one almost fall out. Put some removable thread tight on it.
 

Rudyard

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Nails for pins why not ? I use 2' lost heads run about 3/32nds" but fine You can case harden if it suits you but they where generally just iron pins just round off the ends and allow your drill to admit of the pin without major force bit of wax dosn't hurt any & of course needle file or angle the turning bit l to allow for expansion & contraction . While I sneer at such rifles do recall one Artist fellow at F Ship had one tiger striped with bold green bands on painted yellow but he could shoot it . .Thats me pinned out .
Rudyard
 
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I was just thinking about that, of the hundreds of long rifles on display at the JM Davis museum, I don’t recall seeing any if them that were browned. I will look more closely next visit.
 

bacarper

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Productive day today! I ended up going with 3/32" pins and I'm glad I did considering my drill hole was a tad low.

Cleaned up brass plate/interface - I currently have a ~.005" gap in some spots still so I may need to work on it a little more.
Drilled and installed pins
Started shaping the joined stock.
Routed out a cavity for a side plate I ordered from Deer Creek

Shes cleaning up nicely!
 

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stikshooter

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Howdy Folks!

As the title implies, I recently inherited a handful of muzzle loaders that are all in various stages of disrepair. My best guess is that these were all old kit guns since none of the steel has been blued. From what I know, they've all been sitting in a garage for the past 20 years in the southern Arizona desert.
Here's a list of everything I have:
CVA Kentucky Rifle .45 cal
2X "Philadelphia Derringer" pistols
Flintlock pistol marked "Spain"
Hawes National Corp .36 cal revolver
Old CVA "Shooter's Kit"

I'm no stranger to muzzle loaders but could definitely use some help getting these beauties up and running. I may post a new thread for each build/repair, but for now I'll start with the CVA Kentucky.
All that being said I could really use some help in getting started with the following:
1. Barrel Inspection: The barrel is rusted but the bore looks relatively clean and seems as though this has never been fired. My plan is to strip down the rust and send it out for blueing. But before I do that, I wanted to see if there are any replacement barrels available (my guess is the cost will about the same either way.) Also, what should I be looking for inside the bore other than potential rust pitting and fouling?
2. I'm neurotic about the muzzle loaders I shoot, and would just like some advise on what to look for to make sure this thing is in tip top shape before I start shooting it.
3. Does anyone have any literature or history on these CVA Kentucky Rifles? I'm specifically looking for assembly/disassembly instructions.

Thanks in advance!
Handle the blue/browning yourself ,cheap and a learning experience!/Ed
 

bacarper

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A couple of fun updates since Christmas break:

1. I ran into some serious casting issues with the nose cap. No matter how much I sanded I kept running into pits and got to the point where I had taken off way too much material. I ended up silver soldering 1/16" plates to build back the ends and it worked out really well. I also had to build up a portion of the stock that was causing alignment issues from being too chewed up.
2. Butt plate and toe plate gave me a heck of a time when eliminating the gaps. I once again had to take off more material than I would have liked but happy with the final result.
 

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LME

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Deer Creek has all the remaining parts inventory for the older CVA side lock rifles.
They also have a section on their website containing parts breakdowns, manuals, schematics, etc.
Hope that helps.
I just found three CVA's in various states of disrepair from my late father in law.
A Kentucky 45
54 cal Mountain Rifle
45 Derringer.
I've since ordered all the missing parts and and rebuilding them.
I had a big bore mountain rifle and let a friend talk me out of it. It was a very accurate rifle and never gave me the first minute of trouble. I wish I had it back.
 
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davidmc62

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A couple of fun updates since Christmas break:

1. I ran into some serious casting issues with the nose cap. No matter how much I sanded I kept running into pits and got to the point where I had taken off way too much material. I ended up silver soldering 1/16" plates to build back the ends and it worked out really well. I also had to build up a portion of the stock that was causing alignment issues from being too chewed up.
2. Butt plate and toe plate gave me a heck of a time when eliminating the gaps. I once again had to take off more material than I would have liked but happy with the final result.

That is looking very nice there Sir! You do fine work, keep sending up date pictures.
 
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You will want to brown the barrels for authenticity. I posted a browning solution from Dixie Gun Works. Be sure to get their printed catalog as it has alot of information in it. They will send you a copy for $5.


 

bacarper

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Pretty good progress this week. The majority of the "construction" is done and I'm just about on to finishing. I ended up making a new brass spacer to deal with gap issues between the two stock pieces. I also made it about .020" thicker than necessary to help preload the barrel tang pins when installed.

I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this, but I figured out an easy way to chuck the ramrod thimbles into a drill press for easy sanding/polishing.

Only issue I keep running into is this pesky 9-5 job that keeps getting in the way. I could really use some advice on how to solve that...
 

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bacarper

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Finally on to staining and finishing the stock. Step sanded the stock to 300, coated with Colortone black grain filler, sanded off with 400 and cleaned with mineral spirits. Stain is American Walnut by Behlen.

I plan on finishing this the same way I do with mandolins and guitars, which is to say about 24 coats of true oil mixed down with equal parts mineral spirits. The picture shows the first two wash coats of the true oil finish.
 

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bacarper

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For anyone still interested/following, the finished pictures can be found here (I figure this thread should have been in the forum to begin with):

Thank you all for the help and advice!
 

ord sgt

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That CVA kit just might surprise you. I was given a CVA kit. Small parts were missing. I had no problem with the assembly. After working up the right load, the little rifle is accurate. The short pull length makes it easy for youngsters and women to shoot, with a light load.
 
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