Heating a barrel red to hot stamp

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redware

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I found a video of a reproduction 1805 pistol having its barrel heated red hot to have stamps applied in an effort to “defarb.”



I don’t know much about metallurgy, but wouldn’t this take the temper out of the steel? Or is this not an issue?
 
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I found a video of a reproduction 1805 pistol having its barrel heated red hot to have stamps applied in an effort to “defarb.”



I don’t know much about metallurgy, but wouldn’t this take the temper out of the steel? Or is this not an issue?

No effort here. John can make a pistol or rifle look like a brand new issue piece from 1860.
 

redware

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I'm still new to the world of muzzleloading; I didn't know temper isn't a concern and that heating a barrel cherry red isn't a concern. Thanks!
 
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Hi,
Modern muzzle loader barrels are mild steel so losing any hardening or tempering by heating it red is not an issue, however, the high temp likely will produce scale in the bore if the heating is all the way through. Bad scaling could damage a bore, particularly a smooth bore. I suppose it wouldn't matter if the stamp was over the breech threads so the actual bore is not involved as long as the heat can be controlled.

dave
 
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I don’t heat my barrels red so that I can stamp them.

The only trouble i’ve ever had was stamping an Italian barrel (Brown Bess), they’re barrels are extremely hard.
 

Stykbow

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Do any of you builders use an etching machine? Lots of knife makers use them and I’d think they’d be really nice marking barrels and such.
 

Stykbow

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Like a graver?
No, I’m talking about an electro-chemical etcher. The ones I’m talking about pass an electric current thru a liquid solution that eats away the metal wherever you touch it. So, you get a stencil created for whatever you want to “cut” in. Some use stencils that attach to the etching head and others use stencils that stick to the work surface. They make a really nice, clean stamp.
 

Red Owl

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I make knives and stamp the ricasso area with my initials. Do it cold. THAT SAID, stamping does put stress on the steel and doing that to a barrel isn't a good idea IMHO. Send a private message to Wick- ERB, and ask him as he knows more than anyone else on these things.
 
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I make knives and stamp the ricasso area with my initials. Do it cold. THAT SAID, stamping does put stress on the steel and doing that to a barrel isn't a good idea IMHO. Send a private message to Wick- ERB, and ask him as he knows more than anyone else on these things.

I don’t know that I’d say its a bad thing to stamp a barrel, it’s been done for hundreds of years with lesser quality wrought iron too.

Most stamps are also near the breech area, which is the thickest part of the barrel.
 
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Buffing wheels and acetylene torches?? There is no reason in the world to heat a barrel red hot to stamp it. If the stamps are heat treated the stamp will be made soft. The marking toward the muzzle is particularly deep. I'd bet money he distorted the bore.
 
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waksupi

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To avoid bore scale when heating a barrel, put a close fitting wood dowel in the bore. It will prevent the carbon damage.
 
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Hi,
Modern muzzle loader barrels are mild steel so losing any hardening or tempering by heating it red is not an issue, however, the high temp likely will produce scale in the bore if the heating is all the way through. Bad scaling could damage a bore, particularly a smooth bore. I suppose it wouldn't matter if the stamp was over the breech threads so the actual bore is not involved as long as the heat can be controlled.

dave
John is a consummate master of the gunsmithing art… pretty sure he takes precautions.
 

jimhallam

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No, I’m talking about an electro-chemical etcher. The ones I’m talking about pass an electric current thru a liquid solution that eats away the metal wherever you touch it. So, you get a stencil created for whatever you want to “cut” in. Some use stencils that attach to the etching head and others use stencils that stick to the work surface. They make a really nice, clean stamp.
But the bottom of the "stamp" is rounded, not sharp as it would be with engraving.
 

jimhallam

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I know that I am going to be in the minority, but I am dead set against "defarbing" as it frequently leads to outright fakery -- especially if after the work is done the firearm is deliberately given "realistic" knocks and bumps and left to rust.
Future generations will be sold "genuine antiques" when they are not.
 
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Over the years , I have ruined two gun barrels , one using a bench vise , and one a hammer .Tight spots in the bore can't be easily fixed. Would urge caution to keep from making the same error as I did.
 
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