• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

have any of you ever made your own Leaf Spring?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes. For this lock
image.jpgimage.jpg

Made from a hay rake tooth like this. Requires some blacksmithing.
image.jpeg
 
Made main, frizzen and modern gun flat and V springs out of O1 tool steel. Not to tough as the heat treat is known when you know what steel you’re working with.
 
If so, then how difficult was it?
In the early 70s I did my first build with a cheap flintlock. The lock worked well, but the mainspring broke. Being new to this game I thought I would try making one. I purchased some spring steel stock and followed Kit Ravenshear's book and the lock is still working today. Just don't ask me how good it looks! 😂
Larry
 
I have made a few. Mostly the smaller gun springs like sear springs and revolver trigger springs. Proper tempering and drawing is the hard part but practice pays off
 
These sorts of things are for those gifted with cleverness. Be prepared to make 4 springs before you get a good one. These are the hard parts:
  • Turning the tab that locks into the bolster
  • Getting a good smooth taper
  • Bending the “V” precisely where you want it
  • Forging the hook. Realistically you have very little length tolerance and the hook must workaround the toe of the tumbler at full cock but not bash into the bolster
  • Getting the right pre-load by having the right thickness, width, and spread to the V
  • Tempering
 
I have made springs for pocket knives, not too hard. One style has a spring on top of the handle, some call it a dorsal spring- this is an old colonial style and there is a ring to lift the spring (the blade is locked). Remember- if you don't like the spring as is, go back to repeat the tempering process.
 
Lol, literally just made my first sear spring because of this post! Thanks!

Back story, I had this extra Pedersoli lock lying around and it needed a sear spring so after reading this post I got the encouragement to make one out of a piece of hack saw blade and the fact Pedersoli wants $21.00 plus shipping for this little spring!!!! Figured I’d try my hand at it with nothing to lose. It was actually pretty easy and turned out great! What a rewarding feeling to make your own parts and learn in the process! Took about an hour to make and fit.
 

Attachments

  • 220215A0-DF8B-447B-B074-510EC34A2B0E.jpeg
    220215A0-DF8B-447B-B074-510EC34A2B0E.jpeg
    93.7 KB · Views: 45
  • 643BAE7A-51C0-4FEF-9882-B1C9D755DA3B.jpeg
    643BAE7A-51C0-4FEF-9882-B1C9D755DA3B.jpeg
    81 KB · Views: 44
I started making my own leaf/flat springs back in the early 70's with dismal success. I saw Kit Ravenshear at Dixons one year forging a spring out in front of Dixon's front door of their store during one of their Gunmaker's Fair. Kit made it look easy so I purchased his set of paperback books and when I got home I tried his method some springs worked and some did not. I find that 1075 to 1084 to be the best spring steel to use for flat and vee-springs. I also now use a lead pot to temper my springs in. That "burning off the oil" method was not consistent for me. Getting the two heating temperatures are the key to a good lasting spring along with good spring design and metal finish :thumb:
 
Good job, the only spring that you might want to buy versus make would be a very heavy one- like the main spring for the lock.
 
Made main, frizzen and modern gun flat and V springs out of O1 tool steel. Not to tough as the heat treat is known when you know what steel you’re working with.
IMO 01 is too short in the grain. I always use CS65 or 70 Or equivalent EN42. Much more tollent to Hot bending. As an alternative find old car or pick-up springs. The older the better --Model T is ideal or other pre-war. Have made lots over the years. Always cut it along the length not across. OLD DOG..
 
I've also tried O-1 but did not have good consistent results - more broken than good ones. I'll stick with 1075 - 1084. Note: I use a torch for my heat source and a lead pot for my tempering. I guess if you had a temperature controlled oven then you would get better results with O-1.
 
Back
Top