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Grudge. Advice for my flintlock rifle

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Jubylives

32 Cal
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Bought this at a show last year. Was incomplete and in terrible shape. Barrel and lock were new. Total weight is just over 20 pounds. Barrel alone is 17 lbs. So I named it Grudge. So some questions.

1. The little tiny coil spring for the front trigger went sailing and vanished forever. What is it called exactly so I know what to search for.


2. What would be a safe amount of powder to use to shoot this monster? I have fff powder. Should I use something different for the main charge?

3. Bore measures .50. What would be the best size ball to shoot?

Appreciate any help. Jeremy
 

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Any stampings on the barrel you can share with us? Pictures of the inside of the lock, and, of the fire control system if all connected as a unit to the trigger plate, would be good too.
 
And I thought my GPR was on the heavy side. I think with the right combo of powder, patch and ball it could be very accurate from a rest. Looks like rifled boiler tube. Anyone ever work in a coal fired electric plant?
Dave
 
Only markings are on the lock. T. Potts London. Barrel had no markings at all. Was in the white and not a ding on it. It's a massive thing to hold. It's why I bought it. The guy at the show said he was tired of moving it from show to show so he sold it to me for $180. I practically threw the money at him.

I'm new to this so I'm not sure what to look for exactly with the twist. It is rifled tho. OD of the barrel is almost 1 1/4". I even ended up removing 1.5 pounds of wood when shaping the stock. It make me grunt every time I pick it up so I named it Grudge. Odd, I know lol.

I can get picks tomorrow. The trigger group is just that. Its own group. One piece that fits in the stock.

Appreciate everyone's time responding.
 
It make me grunt every time I pick it up so I named it Grudge. Odd, I know lol.

I can get picks tomorrow. The trigger group is just that. Its own group. One piece that fits in the stock.
Not odd, creative and makes sense.

Yes, please post pics of the trigger group so we can see where this missing spring goes. And, between that and pics of inside the lock, maybe figure out more about the gun and who might have built it.
 
Got pics of the triggers. Not the best lighting. Spring went under the hook the arrow points to and pushed up on it. It was there one second and gone the next. Will get more pics once I get it further apart. Everyone's time is appreciated. Jeremy
 

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Would appear it was some kind of trigger return spring, returning the trigger to the unfired position after firing the gun, and maintaining tension on the firing trigger so it isn't slopping around.
Not really necessary.
 
.490 and what ever thickness of patch provides smooth loading without having to hammer it in. Generally shallow grooves work with thin patching and deep grooves with thicker.
My TC green mountain 50 has deep grooves and shoots good with .490/.495 and .020 patch.
My other 50s use no more than .015.
Best to measure the land to land then use ball -.010. adjust from there.
I would start at 50 grains FFF and work up 5 grains till good accuracy is achieved. Ball patch combinations can affect the needed charge.
 
I agree with Brokennock, not really needed. But if you still want one, small coil springs can be found in ball point pens and Bic lighters. Cut to length needed. I think Ace Hardware might also have an assortment of springs.
 
That is a 'chunk gun' or bench rest rifle, not for offhand use. The best bp charge is what works best with the ball/patch/lube combo you develop. I have found making friends with machinists can be handy when one needs an odd part like your little spring.
 
Unfortunately it is needed. Front trigger holds the bar down that springs up to trip the lock. Rear trigger pushes said bar down. Ball point pen spring is a good idea. I'll try that and see if its strong enough.
 
The flint lock is East India Company' Bakers' Pattern if Potts & bearing no E I Coy Lion Marks ? .Chunk gun be a good estimate the chunk gunners like ungainly rifles ( They have far too much fun !) Price is right, locks worth that its only a 60 yard shoot over the log rested you wont need any big charges under the barrel might be Bill Large's witty comments . (I shot one that had " Old maids a thinkin" he made such barrels . good luck with it
Rudyard
 
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Coil springs in a flintlock ? something not quite right there , should be a leaf spring . Various ml supply companies supply parts for double set triggers , the L shaped leaf spring should come down the side of the lock and engage that notch the arrow is pointing to. The spring should be retained by a small screw . I would guess someone broke the spring and replaced it with a coil .
 
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Coil springs in a flintlock ? something not quite right there , should be a leaf spring . Various ml supply companies supply parts for double set triggers , the l shaped leaf spring should come down the side of the lock and engage that notch the arrow is pointing to. The spring should be retained by a small screw . I would guess someone broke the spring and replaced it with a coil .
That would explain the difficulties in finding a replacement. Perhaps it was a trigger set for another rifle? Maybe my best bet is to get good pics and measurements and see what Dixie could get for me. But I have this side of me that wants to make this work. Mostly out of principle.
 
That would explain the difficulties in finding a replacement. Perhaps it was a trigger set for another rifle? Maybe my best bet is to get good pics and measurements and see what Dixie could get for me. But I have this side of me that wants to make this work. Mostly out of principle.
I believe this is the type of trigger you have from what I can see in your picture. Note the long wire spring that acts on the front trigger. That is the part you need, or one similar to it. Unfortunately its on back order but if you're handy you might be able to make one from a length of piano wire steel....... Part # is TR-DST-1-FTS cost is $3.99 ..... Double set trigger kit, single lever type, not assembled - Track of the Wolf

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