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longcruise

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i don't think either sets of patches you showed are good enough. The last set is obviously not acceptable. The first set looks better but still not acceptable IMO. But, my opinion is not important.

When patches look like the first set, they often show group spread above and beyond what would be expected. Here's what a patch should look like.

20200307_130008_copy_600x800.jpg
 

Boomerang

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You will definitely have sub-par grouping with patches like that. Keep experimenting with different patches and lubes until you don't have any tares or holes in them.
 

SDSmlf

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If the gun shoots accurately, wouldn’t worry all that much about what the patches look like. I’m more impressed by someone’s target with a tight group than someone’s extensive shot patch collection.

You may want to make sure your pre lubricated patches are not that old (the lubrication causes the patch material to break down over time), and possibly try a thicker patch. Also make sure the muzzle bore chamfer is smooth and burr free. But if your are getting good groups, I would concentrate on getting familiar shooting your new rifle for now, then work in some tests with patch material and lubes to see if you can improve accuracy.
 

Stony Broke

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I'd consider maybe a little larger diameter patch if it were me. Your patch thickness as well at patch lube might be making the difference though.
 

CoHiCntry

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The .018 patches were really hard to load so I wasn’t too disappointed when my group wasn’t as good as when I used the .010 patch. I wouldn’t wanna have to deal with that hard of a load in the field.

Can anyone tell me what’s causing the torn up patches? Trying to learn a little...
 

Zonie

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The most likely problem with your .018 patches is they are old, pre-lubricated patches.

The lube companies use to make pre-lubricated patches will slowly break down the cotton fibers in the material. After a year or more, this break down can cause the patches to rip, tare or burn thru like the patches in your photo shows.

Other things that can cause the problem is a sharp corner at the muzzle where the cone meets the rifling and the bore. All of the factory made guns have sharp edges at this location. The reason it can show up with thick patches and not with similar thin patches is, the material has to be squeezed more as it enters the bore. This additional compression can tare the cotton fibers on old pre-lubricated patches.

The answer to this is, if the muzzle has sharp corners where the crown meets the bore and rifling, remove them.
If the patch strength is in question, buy some un-lubricated patches, lubricate them with something ranging from spit to Stumpy's Moose Juice or Moose Snot or even Bore Butter and give them a try.

If you want to remove sharp edges at the muzzle, get a piece of 220 grit, black, wet/dry sandpaper. Tare off a 1" X 1" piece and place it on the muzzle.
Use your thumb to press it down into the bore and then start rotating your hand back and forth as you rotate the barrel.
Change the paper often and keep on doing this until all of the edges look like they are smooth and rounded off.
After you do this, a lot if not all of your problem, will go away.
 

CoHiCntry

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Since first posting this I’ve been to the range about once a week trying different powder/ patch combinations. Most groups were decent at 50 yds. I couldn’t get anything better than 2” groups. I decided to switch to Swiss 2F instead of 3F and got the best group yet at 1.5”. Good enough for now with hunting season approaching.

80 gr Swiss 2F
.015 pillow ticking daisy patch (prelubed)
C794D364-D818-4691-BDE7-4AEE2A411860.jpeg
 

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