• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Green Mountain Barrels--TC?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes and yes. I used a couple of GM barrels on TCs and "defarbed" them (removed their Circle M logo as well as the caliber).
 
I have one for my T/C Hawken (the last one available from them, in fact). It has their logo stamped on it, as well as the caliber and a serial number.
 
Not sure anyone has answered the original question.
I'm curious as well, so I'll restate the question in 2 parts for clarity. :wink:
Did Thompson Center ever buy barrels from Green Mountain Barrel Co. and install them on their rifles at the factory..??
If they did, were those barrels marked with the GM logo..??

Like many here, I've picked up Green Mountain aftermarket barrels for both of my T/C "Hawken style" rifles.
They are both 50-yd "one-hole shooters" with the right combination all day long. There might be better super-custom-hand-made buffed, burnished,polished,laser-true super match barrels out there but those Green Mountain barrels have been top performers for me.
 
I just purchased a barrel for my TC Hawken, it's caplock now but want to convert it to flinter. The barrel purchased has the TC logo, 5 didgit s/n, the circle M, caliber and original wooden ram rod.Looks all the world like a purchased part installed at the factory. Thanks to all for your comments. I made a great deal. :thumbsup:
 
Don Steele said:
Not sure anyone has answered the original question.
I'm curious as well, so I'll restate the question in 2 parts for clarity. :wink:
Did Thompson Center ever buy barrels from Green Mountain Barrel Co. and install them on their rifles at the factory..??
If they did, were those barrels marked with the GM logo..??


no, T/C never bought Green Mountain barrels for their guns. and the circle-M stamp on the bottom is just one of several inspectors marks they used over the years.
 
Tip Curtis Frontier Shop still has GM barrels in stock.
615-654-4445

36" and 42". .36 - .58 cal.

I'm not sure if he still has "drop in's" for TCs or not.

If not it's not much trouble to make one.

Tip carries under ribs and breech plugs and screws.

He has sights too if needed. :doh:
 
Howdy Smo..!!
Last time I chatted with him, he had pretty much sold out of the GM "Drop-ins".
For anyone interested though, it's certainly worth a phone call to see if one or two have popped up in his sizeable inventory.
On a related note, this last June at Friendship I had a chance to visit with Jason at Rice Barrels. He was showing his new "Drop-in" offering for 15/16th's barrel channel rifles. Anyone interested in replacing their factory barrel with a Rice...might give Jason a shout. :thumbsup:
 
I bought a Green River Drop in round ball barrel for my TC years ago. I was so green when it came to M/Ls I thought I had a lemon when it shredded patches and didn't shoot worth a hoot.

I sold it to a friend and bought a Green Mountain drop in that shot well right out of the box.

Turned out my friend was very experienced as a M/L builder. He said I needed to lap the barrel but I didn't even know what that meant.

He said lapped the barrel and made a tack driver out of it.

I still didn't know what lapping a barrel was until I started looking into building guns 30 years later.
 
A friend at my ML club said to properly lap a barrel, wrap steel wool around a bore brush, turn on the radio to a Country station, draw back and forth in the barrel, the total length, for a period of 3 songs. He wasn't kidding me and I'm not kidding you. Give it a try! :wink:
 
I agree Don and they're made of the right kind of steel for barrels.
There .22 RF barrels are top performers as well. They shoot with the very best even at long range(200 yards and beyond).
 
That would be burnishing a barrel actually as no cutting action is taking place.
I have hand lapped a good many barrels with a poured lead slug charged with various grit course-ness, usually starting at about 240 and then 320 grit, finishing up with 400.
I have gone all the way to 1200 but that is over kill and nothing is gained above 400.
The trick is to map out and address the tight spots and work in a bit of choke toward the muzzle if possible although a level bore will shoot every bit as well.
Also never introduce a freshly charged lap from the muzzle regardless of what the books say.......... they're wrong on that score!
 
M.D. said:
That would be burnishing a barrel actually as no cutting action is taking place.
I have hand lapped a good many barrels with a poured lead slug charged with various grit course-ness, usually starting at about 240 and then 320 grit, finishing up with 400.
I have gone all the way to 1200 but that is over kill and nothing is gained above 400.
The trick is to map out and address the tight spots and work in a bit of choke toward the muzzle if possible although a level bore will shoot every bit as well.
Also never introduce a freshly charged lap from the muzzle regardless of what the books say.......... they're wrong on that score!


Why? Damage to the crown? MD are you saying lap from the breech end?
 
Yes, always introduce a freshly charged lap( when it does the most cutting) in the breech end. The reason of course is obvious as we want to keep the muzzle end tight.
I have even developed a method for doing this in chambered cartridge barrels involving a longer than chamber lapping slug.
The other important point is never lap without a rod guide in place to keep the lapping rod off the bore. I usually make one out of a rimmed pistol case drilling out the primer pocket to lap rod diameter.
 
Back
Top