Glue for Forend Cap

[Vaino]

I just use whatever epoxy I've got and when set, drill a hole from the bottom stock flat and use a copper rivet...like the oldtimers......Fred

 

[Sidney Smith]

Another vote for 5 minute epoxy. Hasn't let me down yet.

 

[tenngun]

Epoxy does not last; wood and metal expand at different rates and eventually will loosen. I've seen it happen several times. Use epoxy for a bedding compound AND a rivet and you will never have to mess with it again.

#1 idea, easy to make rivits, and was done in the past. Hot bees wax underneath before you set the rivits makes it solid and it won’t Niven in your lifetime

 

[The Appalachian]

I will agree with necchi with one cavate, If your using ebony or other oily woods use some acetone on them a couple of times so the oil does not interfere with the joint.

Yep. That's a 99.999% marriage of ebony to walnut with 60 minute cure 2 ton devcon clear epoxy. Used about a dozen treatments of acetone not only because ebony is oily but I had to make sure all of the inletting soot from the oil lamp was removed from both surfaces before daring to glue.

 

[cajun]

Or inlet to a fair fit and screw it on. These are a factory and a hand done job and both have lasted for fifty years.
6742B3ED-C7B4-4683-B9DF-7D11E725705C by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

As always Phi thanks for your help/guidance and pointing this rookie in the right direction.

 

[cajun]

Yep. That's a 99.999% marriage of ebony to walnut with 60 minute cure 2 ton devcon clear epoxy. Used about a dozen treatments of acetone not only because ebony is oily but I had to make sure all of the inletting soot from the oil lamp was removed from both surfaces before daring to glue.View attachment 124097

That there is a work of art!

 

[The Appalachian]

That there is a work of art!

Thank you. The original plan was a pewter pour on that stock but I chickened out. Lol.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Pewter is nice too.
IMG_0484 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[TreeRat91]

Getting ready to start my first build, so I’m pretty ignorant to all things like this. But has anyone ever used G-Flex epoxy? It’s a 2 part that is super strong, but remains mildly flexible once cured. It’s used a lot in the marine industry when you need some minor flexing.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

 

[Scota@4570]

Getting ready to start my first build, so I’m pretty ignorant to all things like this. But has anyone ever used G-Flex epoxy? It’s a 2 part that is super strong, but remains mildly flexible once cured. It’s used a lot in the marine industry when you need some minor flexing.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

Yes, it is my Go-To for stock work.

As for metal pieces not staying put..... IF you try to glue smooth metal to smooth wood that might happen. I use an electro pencil engraver to rough up the metal. That makes a velcro like mechanical attachment. Sometimes I pock mark the wood with a dental burr also. Forend tips, ebony to walnut is not a problem either. Clean it good. Use dowels, I often use all thread or drywall screw shanks. I have never had anything fall off one of my stocks.

 

[TreeRat91]

Yes, it is my Go-To for stock work.

As for metal pieces not staying put..... IF you try to glue smooth metal to smooth wood that might happen. I use an electro pencil engraver to rough up the metal. That makes a velcro like mechanical attachment. Sometimes I pock mark the wood with a dental burr also. Forend tips, ebony to walnut is not a problem either. Clean it good. Use dowels, I often use all thread or drywall screw shanks. I have never had anything fall off one of my stocks.

I wonder if a real coarse sand paper would do enough to brass? Any experience?

 

[Scota@4570]

I wonder if a real coarse sand paper would do enough to brass? Any experience?

Sure, I have done it that way too. Rough it up in some way.

 

[waksupi]

I just fit them correctly, and rivet them.

 

[ord sgt]

On the last build, I chose to fit the nose cap with Accuglass for a skintight fit and for a small touch of color, I clipped a piece of #6 copper ground wire to use as a rivet. Very secure nose cap.

 

[JCKelly]

Epoxy will not stay bonded to copper or brass.
I can't tell you the chemistry but industrially itis known not to use epoxy on copper or is alloys.

 

[waksupi]

http://thistothat.com/What to glue with.

 

[frankie]

What a good brand of glue/epoxy for a forend cap, thanks.

Acra glass from brownells. Rule of thumb. Slower drying the glue, better the bond! If you are gluing ebony, you need to prepare the gluing surface by wiping it off good with acetone.

 

[Fly Navy]

Devcon 2 ton is what I use.

 

[ord sgt]

I can't tell you the chemistry but industrially itis known not to use epoxy on copper or is alloys

I used the epoxy to get a tight fit between the stock and nose cap. A hole was drilled through the nose cap and the copper was flared out in the barrel channel and on the surface of the nose cap for a color contrast.

 

[Vaino]

When using epoxy w/ inserts, I don't depend on adhesion to retain them. A "V" needle file is used to put a groove at various places on the edges of the perimeter of the insert and these grooves "lock in" the insert. Grooves are even filed in on 1/32" thick inserts This really retains them, especially escutcheons for keys. The rivets are used to simulate how the old timers did it...I normally don't use epoxy w/ most inserts.....Fred