Glue advice

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LME

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Gflex 650 two part epoxy, or titebond.
I have used a lot of Titebond glue in my shop over the years and it has worked well . The down side of Titebond glue is it leaves a slight brown line where pieces of material are joined. This is not a major problem on dark woods but it doesn't look good on light colored wood. The reason I use Super glue is it is absolutely undetectable on every type of wood and it drys almost instantly allowing me to continue with my work with no down time.
 

flntlokr

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Have a cherry stock with a strait crack across the toe. It is stabilized by the butt plate screw and the toe plate (it hits about halfway down the toe plate.)

Going to sink a screw to stabilize it. Need to glue also…but what glue?

Normally I use Gorilla glue but it’s an expanding glue and I don’t want it to push out of the crack on either side of the stock. (The fracture is about 80% complete, still not totally seperated.)

Suggestions?
whatever glue you decide to use, pull the crack as open as much as you can and work glue into the crack as deeply as it will go; i squish it in with my thumb. Then squeeze the crack shut, and wipe excess glue off. Long strips of inner tube can be used to wrap the item under a bit of tension, instead of clamps. You have no danger of bruising the wood as you may with metal or wood clamps. Usually no need to put in screws, as the glue joint is frequently stronger than the original bond. I usually use epoxy because it cures quickly and is clear. Good luck with it.
 

ord sgt

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Epoxy is the best way to go. I used it on the rifle in the picture to the left. Stock was broken at the wrist. Two pieces were joined together over 30 years ago. The brass was added for show purposes only. No idea how many times the rifle has been fired since the repair but I swear the rifle shoots better after the break than it did before.
 
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Have a cherry stock with a strait crack across the toe. It is stabilized by the butt plate screw and the toe plate (it hits about halfway down the toe plate.)

Going to sink a screw to stabilize it. Need to glue also…but what glue?

Normally I use Gorilla glue but it’s an expanding glue and I don’t want it to push out of the crack on either side of the stock. (The fracture is about 80% complete, still not totally seperated.)

Suggestions?
Yeah, careful with that gorilla stuff. I use common wood glue, it's in the tan plastic bottle, can't recall the name, but it's rated to 4,000 lbs. (!) strength. It's sold at all the home stores, hardwares, etc., just can't recall name as I'm typing. You've all seen it.
 

Vaino

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On thin cracks I've always used a runny super glue. First off a stain is put into the crack and when dry, the runny super glue is applied...it dissolves and absorbs the stain and the crack nearly disappears.....Fred
 

Oubaas

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Another vote for Titebond II. If you do decide to use epoxy, keep it off of your skin and don't breathe the fumes.

With repeated epoxy exposure, it's not a question of if you're going to have an allergic reaction to it, it's a question of when.

Once you do react to epoxy, you won't ever be able to use it again, not even breathe the fumes. Wear gloves, barrier cream as necessary, and a respirator.

This comes up a lot in boat-building. Just thought I'd mention it. I like epoxy and wouldn't want to have to stop using it, so I avoid contact when using the stuff.
 

bacarper

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There's a ton of great advice on here so I may be late to the party but:

I've had a lot of luck using West Systems G Flex epoxy. I will take a few light passes with a heat gun after I've applied the epoxy to help it flow down into the crack. Another trick I picked up is to "stop drill" the end of the crack: Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from traveling further down the stock (the epoxy will fill this up too.)
 
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Another vote for Titebond II. If you do decide to use epoxy, keep it off of your skin and don't breathe the fumes.

With repeated epoxy exposure, it's not a question of if you're going to have an allergic reaction to it, it's a question of when.

Once you do react to epoxy, you won't ever be able to use it again, not even breathe the fumes. Wear gloves, barrier cream as necessary, and a respirator.

This comes up a lot in boat-building. Just thought I'd mention it. I like epoxy and wouldn't want to have to stop using it, so I avoid contact when using the stuff.
True enough, i havent reacted yet!
But limit use,wear app. Gloves resp. Ect. On the other hand i worked in a boat yard and ,at a certain point.
My career ended fiberglass epoxy resin and me dont coexist! Beforwarned!
 

ltdann

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Gflex 650 two part epoxy, or titebond.
I broke a lancaster at the wrist...stained the edges and used the Gflex 650 and wrapped the wrist in surgical tubing....WOW! Water proof and strong..avaiable on amazon
IMG_20210201_154405195.jpg
IMG_20210205_100030718.jpg
 

waksupi

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I made the Acrabond stocks for Serengeti rifles. We used Titebond II. These were dangerous game rifles for the most part, and went through severe conditions we will never face hunting the states. Not one failure, and if the joint is prepared properly, invisible.
 
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Titebond 11 would is my choice in my woodworking shop. It is very strong and made for wood. Now, TB 111 is very good also but dries leaving a dark brown glue line. Super ugly. TB 11 does not leave a noticable line. As you said, avoid Gorilla glue. I used it on a gun once. Big misteak. o_O
 
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I like acra glass from brownells. It is a slower drying glue. Rule of thumb, slower drying time of a glue the better it attaches. I wouldnt use a quick drying glue because it doesnt have time to soak into the wood before it dries. Like super glue- it dries fast and with use it might hold for awhile but eventually (might) give out. 60% of my jobs are fixing broken or cracked stocks. I hope this helps.
 
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I would go with the CA glue. All the other options are going to be difficult to penetrate into a thin crack. It will require minimal spreading of the crack to penetrate. Putting too much pressure on the spreading effort might pop it off completely. And, that's not necessarily a bad thing but if it pops it. Will be a bit more difficult to get the surfaces mated but if you get that part right it'll be fine.

This is the best stuff I have found.

 
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