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Gimme the Scotchbrite Treatment Please

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Lots of bit of info scattered about post here on saving, or at least making shootable, less than perfect bores. A common treatment appears to be "lapping" with Scotchbrite pad material, green I think? So what is the process you all use on the bores of these poor abused guns please?

* Color of pad or any other identifiers?
* Thickness of the patch use?
*Cleaners or lubricants used, added to the patch if any?
*Visible results to look for like the pad coming clean or perhaps inspection with a bore light?
* Any other tips you might share?
 
Scotch Brite can deal with some light work but for stubborn stuff lapping compound.
 
Lots of bit of info scattered about post here on saving, or at least making shootable, less than perfect bores. A common treatment appears to be "lapping" with Scotchbrite pad material, green I think? So what is the process you all use on the bores of these poor abused guns please?

* Color of pad or any other identifiers?
* Thickness of the patch use?
*Cleaners or lubricants used, added to the patch if any?
*Visible results to look for like the pad coming clean or perhaps inspection with a bore light?
* Any other tips you might share?
Watch the Mike’s video.

Previous posted, but your particular gun just may have sharp/rough edges left in the bore from the manufacturing process. There are many ways to polish and smooth it up. Here is a @duelist1954 video showing the process he used on a difficult to load GPR.

I have used a similar method with Scotch-Brite for some time, but Mike explains his very well. I started doing it after speaking to Don Getz (Getz Barrel) years ago before he passed, and he recommended using the green (600 grit) Scotch-Brite for smoothing up barrels that were cutting patches. Said it wouldn’t hurt the barrel.
 
Green Scotchbrite wrapped around a sub caliber bore brush. Sub caliber bore brush- if your rifle is 50cal, use a 40 or 45. It's sole purpose is to hold the Scotchbrite.
 
Well, I’ve used the maroon pad sparingly with honing oil. I had no idea what the grit was at the time, but it was all I had and old. So, I figured it was pretty safe. Since, I’ve learned the colors and corresponding grits. Green is mostly likely the safest. As previously mentioned a sub caliber bore brush or a 0.10” under sized jag is what most folks use.

IMG_0688.jpg


RM
 
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Well, I’ve used the maroon pad sparingly with honing oil. I had no idea what the grit was at the time, but it was all I had and old. So, I figured it was pretty safe. Since, I’ve learned the colors and corresponding grits. Green is mostly likely the safest. As previously mentioned a sub caliber bore brush or a 0.10” under sized jag is what most folks use.

View attachment 156476

RM
Folks will also find a YELLOW pad but it's not a Scotchbrite product. You will find a yellow pad with ceramic stovetop cleanser. The yellow is for ceramic stove tops, BUT using a yellow pad alone or with a drop of oil will also put a nice dull gray on your Bess or Charleville musket barrel and lock, very similar to some of the original polishing compounds such as rottenstone.

LD
 
I used the green pads.
Another step I took was to buy 2 cheaper gun cleaning kits.
I screwed together enough lengths of rod to reach all the way down the barrel. A bronze bore brush on one end and with the other end chucked in my cordless drill. I soaked the inside of the barrel with Hoppe's Solvent and used the drill to power scrub the inside of the barrel.
The barrel cleaned up pretty darn good.
 
same here,I had a 36 cal wall hanger I couldn't get the ramrod into the muzzle. I lightly used a bronze bore brush with regular hoppys 9 to break the crud. I used a 30 cal jag maroon 3m alternated hoppys black powder cleaner and (valve) lapping compound. after 3 or 4 hrs I gave her a hot bath with Dawn and water. she isn't a tack driver but I get 4in groups at 50yds .the more I fire it , the better the groups and easier loading
 
I just did a 45 cal percussion gun that wouldn’t group with any combination of loads. Six inches at 25 was the best I could manage.

Upon the recommendation of several people, including an old timer at my local shop, I used 000 steel wool with a 36 cal jag. Fifty strokes. Shoot it, and, if necessary, fifty more.

After the first fifty strokes I cleaned it and went to the range the next day. The first two shots at 35 yards were touching.

I am a believer.
 

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Has anyone tried either of the JB compounds? They make a bore polishing compound and also a bore cleaning compound.
Just curious
 
I usually firelap any problem barrels. Most have been new barrels that were patch cutters. High end barrels seem to be just fine as they are but some of the Spanish and made benefit greatly from fire lapping.

It needs to be done with dedicated firelapping compounds and nothing else.
 
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