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You do not see well because the picture is blurred, however, I do like this link http://www.researchpress.co.uk/index.php/lrml/ammunition/88-paperpatching?showall=&start=2, but the paper wrap the contrary so that with the rotation of the paper tightens on the bullet.
 
Ya I know my picture is blurry.... DO you have a tail on your bullet or is it like the one in my picture, with no tail? Your bullet has a flat base, yes?

If you have a tail, you might want to play with wrapping your bullets so that there is not a tail,

Fleener
 
Now i understand what you mean, with flat base bullets is better wrap without queuing and fold the paper into pieces, but i have the cup base and around the paper be doing all in, also push the paper with the top of a pen BIC.
Today i did a lot of cut 250 patches, casting, weighed 150 bullets, resized and patched.
Expect to dry and then lubricate with a thin layer of fat made 50:50 beeswax and vaseline.
 
I'm curious to know how people in that direction patching the bullet. It seems to me that my barrel prefer the patch wrapped so that with the rotation of the projectile, the patch tightens to it.
This is a picture of the web that shows the direction of patching.
n1bj0n.jpg

instead this is the way the contrary, the patch could unroll with the rotation of the bullet
patching02.jpg
 
try wrapping them dry, without wetting the paper. You might like it.

Fleener
 
Tomorrow i will try various combinations
1 wrapped wet clockwise
2 wrapped wet counterclockwise
3 wrapped dry clockwise
4 wrapped dry counterclockwise

all lubruficate with 50:50 vaseline / beeswax
 
looking forward to you post.

We are at below zero temps and snow, plus wind.... no shooting for a while. Hopfully cast some bullets tomorrow.

Fleener
 
For problems of availability of black powder Swiss 3f, i used the 2f reducing the charge of 5 grains. It seems that my barrel shoot better with paper wrapped so that tightens and i have to try better the difference between wet and dry patches.
I also had a powder Italian 2F but compared to the Swiss was very weak, 65 grains of Swiss, i had to increase to 75-80 to have the same performance and also dirtied more.
In short, lost day and did a lot of smoke at all.
 
On February 15, the arms fair in Vicenza I met the owner of the company Davide Pedersoli and with great joy I was recognized for the results published on the Facebook page.
I chatted at length with Pierangelo Pedersoli and Balázs Németh owner of Capandball Firearms Store Budapest and they invited me to write a report on my experience with Gibbs.
You have already seen the results I got, but I still want to share this article published on the blog of Davide Pedersoli. http://blog.davide-pedersoli.com/developing-load-for-45-cal-pedersoli-gibbs-rifle/
Missing report with paper patch, i hope you publish this too.

It was nice to know these two important people.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gianluca,
I am on another thread, but am interested in what you are doing , as I suspect it is relevant to my .451 volunteer efforts. You seem to be shooting some very very good groups, good on you,

cheers

heelerau
 
Some tests done because desperation in finding a compromise to shoot the PP that are somewhat mangy
6 shoots at 110 yards with the best damn flyer
2rfbwk5.jpg


Could be good but finished powder, however, from the previous not having lubricated the patch barrel is dirty more
34698c3.jpg


An alternative to the use 1,5F 2F which has performed remarkably well
Note that although the particle size is different, there is practically no difference in speed
303iznr.jpg


Decreasing the dose widens
154ww39.jpg


Conclusion: I stubbornly use boots on 65-70 max 80 but I found that for PP it takes so GASSSSSSSSS
 
You are doing good for speed. The thought is that you want to be around 1300 FPS or 396 Meters per second. This speed is what is needed for especially 1,000 yard shooting. You can certainly do with less speed at the shorter ranges.

I have attached a couple of pictures with different angles of the same things.

You are right to experiment, as you know not every rifle likes the same thing.

The rifle I have been working with the past year and half is an original Rigby made in 1864. With what I was shooting in it the rifle was more accurate with the lower powder charges. At the world matches I was using 70 and 75 grains of 2f.

I needed to get more speed, so I had to go to work and find a accurate load that will get me the 1300 fps and the kind of accuracy I need.

What I found that this rifle likes is 86 grains of 2f swiss, with a .060" fiber wad (the brown one) on top of the powder, followed by the wool wonder wad that is lubed, then the bullet. My bullets are not lubed.

With this load, I am getting around 1295 fps and the rifle will shoot a 1 inch group at 100 yards.

So, with my new load I got a chance to try it out at Oak Ridge TN match a couple of days ago.

At 200 yards I did well, 300 yards I did average, 600 was OK and I won the 1,000 yard match. Ended up 2nd overall.

If you are not able to get the wool wads or would like for me to send you some to try I be happy to put some in the mail to you. I can also send you some of the .060 card wads as well.

keep us posted!

Fleener






 
I should of said that the load of 86 grains of 2 f, with a .060" fiber wad the group was around 2.5 inches. When I added the lubed wool wonder wad on top of the fiber wad, my grouped shrunk to 1".

Sometimes you never know what can make a big difference in your accuracy.

Fleener
 
Fleener.....what lube do you use on your wonder wads and how do you lube them?
 
I bought them pre lubed. Buffalo Arms or Track sells lubed or un lubed wads.

Fleener
 
Usually i use a wad made with coaster of beer or detergent plastic canister or tetrapack.
I want to try to put on the first wad a felt soaked in margarine, should soften the dirt in the barrel and facilitate cleaning.
 

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