Getting ready to take the plunge…

[SirFrancis]

Well, I’ve been dreaming of a Kibler Colonial for years now. Got my tax refund from Uncle Sam and it was rather larger than anticipated, so here we go. I think I want the Colonial in .54 rifled, with fancy maple.

But I do have some questions.

1. I’m about 5’9” and a half, and I wear a dress shirt with the 34-35” arms rather than the shorter or longer ones. Should the Kibler length of pull fit me ok? I think it’s 13 5/8”.

2. I’m comfortable filing and doing the other finish work, but I’d like my rifle to have some carving eventually and it’s just not a skill I will have time to work on right now. And of course I don’t want to mess up an expensive gun. How practical is it to assemble and finish the gun and send the stock to a builder for some carving, later on? Or should I do that before applying any kind of stock finish?

 

[FishDFly]

Carve first, then finish.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I agree with @FishDFly. The carving comes before the finish.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Well, I’ve been dreaming of a Kibler Colonial for years now. Got my tax refund from Uncle Sam and it was rather larger than anticipated, so here we go. I think I want the Colonial in .54 rifled, with fancy maple.

But I do have some questions.

1. I’m about 5’9” and a half, and I wear a dress shirt with the 34-35” arms rather than the shorter or longer ones. Should the Kibler length of pull fit me ok? I think it’s 13 5/8”.

2. I’m comfortable filing and doing the other finish work, but I’d like my rifle to have some carving eventually and it’s just not a skill I will have time to work on right now. And of course I don’t want to mess up an expensive gun. How practical is it to assemble and finish the gun and send the stock to a builder for some carving, later on? Or should I do that before applying any kind of stock finish?

In my shooting I have noticed I can comfortably shoot rifles with a small variable of preferred LOP, but the best LOP is the way go. What is the best for you?? Why not pick up a few rifles and see what works for you best. You might like 13-3/8" best. You need to decide for yourself just like trying on a pair of shoes.
All wood work on a gun stock needs to be done first, just like FishDFly said.
Larry

 

[david w]

13-5/8" LOP should be fine. Carve 1st. then finish.

 

[Rifleman1776]

At one time I was about that size and a standard 14" lop was just fine. But, eventually I found shorter to be easier to handle and get my sight picture with. Plus, if you intend to use for hunting the heavier clothes become a factor. The shorter pull will be more practical when wearing a coat. Too long a pull can be almost impossible to shoulder for a quick shot at Bambi.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I’m the same size as you and my Kibler colonial 54 fit me fine.
Craving will need done before stain and finish but you can cut some simple lines that will set the stock off nicely, look for some incised line photos.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Most good builders would prefer to put that kit together if they are to carve on it

 

[Art Caputo]

I am 5’9” with the same sleeve size. No problems at all with the Colonial dimensions. Fits perfectly!
I would have the carving performed “before” applying the finish.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

Well, I’ve been dreaming of a Kibler Colonial for years now. Got my tax refund from Uncle Sam and it was rather larger than anticipated, so here we go. I think I want the Colonial in .54 rifled, with fancy maple.

But I do have some questions.

1. I’m about 5’9” and a half, and I wear a dress shirt with the 34-35” arms rather than the shorter or longer ones. Should the Kibler length of pull fit me ok? I think it’s 13 5/8”.

2. I’m comfortable filing and doing the other finish work, but I’d like my rifle to have some carving eventually and it’s just not a skill I will have time to work on right now. And of course I don’t want to mess up an expensive gun. How practical is it to assemble and finish the gun and send the stock to a builder for some carving, later on? Or should I do that before applying any kind of stock finish?

You should be just fine, you fit within general dimensions...so Yeah...should not be a problem. I love your choice of KIBLER KIT, that is exactly what I'm looking at getting. I'll probably place my order in early April..

 

[hanshi]

It's much easier for shooters with a wide variety of sizes to do well with shorter rifle LOPs than it is for them to do well with longer LOPs. Matching the shooter with the best LOP that fits is always preferable but not always possible. Being a shade over 5'4" a 13" lop works well for me. But wearing a hunting coat can make a shorter lop more convenient. My last rifle is 12.5" and is perfect.

 

[toot]

a great way to spend the $!!

 

[Col. Batguano]

Guns primarily intended for prone position have longer LOP's than those intended for standing. Kneeling is in between (as is bench shooting). On my .22 (adjustable stocked) free rifle, the difference is about 1" (I usually am wearing a Creedmoor Heavy Hardback shooting jacket in .22 competitions). Most ML'ers are built for standing position.

I am about your size and use a 13 1/2" LOP for shooting in a sweatshirt or light jacket (for my ML'ers). I built my (unmentionable) deer rifle with a 14" LOP and when I'm wearing heavy clothing I can barely reach the trigger (in standing position).

All that said, LOP is the one dimension that people are generally the most adaptable to variations in them. Other dimensions (that affect cheek weld primarily) are much more difficult to make the adjustment.

 

[SirFrancis]

Well, I ordered it this morning!

.54 cal, rifled, with the middle grade Fancy Maple.

I haven’t yet decided if it’s better to contact a builder and see if I can have the stock carved and finished, or if I just give it a go myself and see how I do. I guess worst case if I mess it up badly enough I could always buy a new stock from Jim.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I’m about 5’9” and a half, and I wear a dress

Sorry could not help myself

 

[deerstalkert]

same size as OP.
just built a flintlock with 14.5 inch lop. scared me to leave it that long but shortening it would have made a razor blade of the but plate.
tucked over my bicep and into my armpit it is perfect!

 

[Sidney Smith]

I say forego the carving. Every new builder seems to want to dive right into carving. Gotta learn to crawl before you walk. The gun will still look beautiful without any carving, and will be no more functional with a bunch of fancy carving, just remember that.

 

[SirFrancis]

I say forego the carving. Every new builder seems to want to dive right into carving. Gotta learn to crawl before you walk. The gun will still look beautiful without any carving, and will be no more functional with a bunch of fancy carving, just remember that.

I’d agree except that carving is beautiful and is part of what, to me, makes these guns so beautiful. If it takes a couple of tries (or a chunk of change to pay someone to do it) I’m OK with that.

I went back and forth for years between the Colonial and the Southern Mountain style for this reason, the SMR looks great naked, and in fact carving would be out of place on one, whereas the Colonial just begs for it. But the Colonial style (“early Virginia”) in the parlance of some builders and kit suppliers is the original style that called to me when I first discovered muzzleloaders as a poor college student and said “one day I’d love to have one of those.”
I can’t wait for this thing to arrive!

 

[Zutt-man]

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-assembly-timeline.136570/
I’m amateur at best at carving. This was my first gun. It’s not great, but I’ll always remember the process and still think it looks great, imperfections or not. There are simple carvings you can do such as lines, dimples, etc.

 

[SirFrancis]

My kit arrived and today I really had a chance to look it over.

First, the packaging is very well thought-out. Short of it being run over by a forklift I can’t see how these could get damaged in transit, which is a real achievement.

Second, what a sweet gun this is going to be!!!

Third, I went with fancy maple (but not extra fancy) and have been second guessing myself since. I needn’t have. This stock has nice curl all down it, and some in the buttstock area, but the curl in the butt takes enough of a break for carving to look great and not have to fight the stock for prominence. This wood is nicer than my ability, for sure.

Fourth: uh oh… There’s a bit of a hole where the inletting for the lock and the barrel channel come together. Catastrophe? Or no big deal at all and common as spots on a cow? See pictures below…