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Gaaah! Help! Can't get stuck ball out

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So I think next time I would get a range for or similar and use a mallet to hammer the ball down on the powder so I could shoot it out. Other than that, what would you have done differently?

I just came across this topic today and I'm glad to see that you solved the problem. Anyways, the range rod at the range is the way to go. Even without a hammer you can pound it against a tree or on the ground. It's also a good idea to have a relatively indestructible handle on the rod. I busted one that I'd used a ceramic door knob for a handle. :) but it still did the job.
 
Carbon 6 & Grenadier, sounds like the old business “Action Plan”. That brings back nightmares.
nhmoose, on grease removal, I wish I had thought of that. That is a capitol idea.
 
Lesson #10
Don’t keep trying the same solution that doesn’t work and expect different results on repeated attempts. May ultimately lead to additional challenges/complications, i.e., repeated attempts with a ball puller - resulted in a hole through the ball.

Lesson 11
Problem solving 101 steps. This general approach will work in most situations.
•Get your ‘team’ together.
•Identify the problem.
•Identify temporary containment (remove cap, neutralize the powder, make gun safe, etc).
•Identify possible solutions, prioritizing most likely to work.
•Work thru your solutions.
•Evaluate effectiveness of solutions.
•Once resolved, figure out why original problem occurred, and take steps so it does occur again. These things have a way of repeating at the most opportune times if you don’t identify and eliminate the root cause.
•And congratulate your team.
 
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I've never had to go this route but have heard once the ball starts moving, it comes out fairly easy so no need to fill the entire bore with grease. Seems right to me anyway.
 
Well, Carbon 6, I see you paid attention in your Total Quality Management training. I would swap Lesson 9 with Lesson 8 simply for the order of the process. Problem solving in three steps. Understand/define the problem. Determine a procedure to solve the problem and perform the procedure. Evaluate the success or failure of the procedure. If the procedure failed, start over. Getting help is vital to overcome the failure.
Observe, remember, compare. Sherlock Holmes
 
Congratulations for sticking with it! This topic makes me wonder just how many barrels are out there just collecting dust for the same reason.
 
If I had got a ball stuck that firm would remove the breech plug at home, dump the powder and drive the ball out with a brass rod.
 
I like the idea of a grease gun and zerk rather than removal of the breech plug. There are too many stories of extreme difficulty in removing a breech plug noted here and in other areas. Some muzzleloaders such as CVA and Traditions even warn against removing the plug. I would only remove or have one removed if absolutely necessary.
 
I have shot the ball out and used the CO2 discharger. I have used the bullet puller more than once. The bullet puller is the choice for working with my flintlocks. I have pulled the breech plug on a rifle I built and knew how the breech plug was installed. I have not yet used the grease fitting, but I know how it works.
 
If you don't have the proper tools and know how to remove the breech plug, it should not be patent breech guns like CVA or Traditions types. Those take extra special know how.
 
I know , my post is a little out of topic , but maybe , there is someone who likes to read it since I also had a stuck load :

It's almost 40 years ago that I offered my help to the local museum of my home town , who had a really nice collection of different , scarce and interestig , but neglected guns for cleaning , conservating and most of all , filing them .
I took my vacancys for then .
There were extremely interesting heavy target rifles from the flintlock aera as well as percussion target and hunting rifles of very best origin like Sauer&Sohn and Kuchenreuthers , some Mausers and lots of scarce Vetterlis and lots of guns that were used in the socalled " Badischer Aufstand " of 1848 etc.
I cleaned , greased and filed them the best I knew then , and learned a lot of the ancient gunmakers art , but the last gun ( I don't rember if it was an Enfield type or French military of the 1850s ) was different :
At the very most moment , when I took it out of its shelf , I knew , name it sixt sence or whatever , that there was something different .
The first thing I do when I take a gun into my hands , is blowing into the muzzle. If the blow is free , I know , everyting is OK , if it is not , in 999 out of 1000 , there is an obstruction in the piston/vent channel which can be cleared with the help of a wire .
Next what I do is inserting a ramrod for learning , if it goes all the way down to the breech plug , which can be easily be determined by comparison by the way it goes down from outside the barrel .
Well , in this case it DIDN'T go all the way down and I knew , there was something .
Next I tried to clear the gun with my bullet worm , but all I got out , was some rusty carton like stuff .
Well , I was very young then and dicided to get the barrel clear in my home shop , tried to screw off the breech plug , but it was extremely rusted and didn'd move . ( I had the toolings already then ) .
Well , as I already said , I was very young then , I screwed off the nipple , inserted a triffle of BP as a starter , screwed the nipple back , placed a cap and after I've clamped the gun in my vice I pulled the trigger with help of a string from outside of my shop .
What I didn't knew then , was , that my father was working in his office just over my shop , and the report of the gun nearly led to a heart attack for him . You might imagine , what he told me ....
Fortunately , the load was ony a blank load , but what could have happend , if some fool had loaded with modern powder - I still don't want to think of .
When I brought the cleared and cleaned gun back to the museum and told the story to the director , he only said , they must keep all items , as they get it .

Well ...

What I like to tell You is NEVER ; NEVER fire a gun , You haven't loaded Yourself !!!

PS.: The last item , which I grabbed out of the darkest corner in this collection , was a pretty heavy thing , shaped like an odd wine bottle - a 8.8 genade . When I picked it up , there was a annoying noise like sand pouring from one end to the other when I tilted it - as I remember , this was the time when I quit the scene ...
 
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Rather than beat around the bush, it would be helpful to hear what you think the lessons are. I am all ears.
I just thought it odd that the O.P. wound up with a hard crusty deposit from Black MZ when all I ever got was a consistent almost gooey thin deposit and have shot close to 100 shots with no wiping or cleaning. I would like to know what happened to cause such a huge difference. Not ego, just an interest is all. I have heard all sorts of stories about how bad that stuff is but only down side I have seen is that it doesn’t work for me in flintlocks. Just saying, maybe a bad lot?
 
I just thought it odd that the O.P. wound up with a hard crusty deposit from Black MZ when all I ever got was a consistent almost gooey thin deposit and have shot close to 100 shots with no wiping or cleaning. I would like to know what happened to cause such a huge difference. Not ego, just an interest is all. I have heard all sorts of stories about how bad that stuff is but only down side I have seen is that it doesn’t work for me in flintlocks. Just saying, maybe a bad lot?

I think the answer might be as simple as humidity where the OP shoots compared to where you shoot.
 
I just thought it odd that the O.P. wound up with a hard crusty deposit from Black MZ when all I ever got was a consistent almost gooey thin deposit and have shot close to 100 shots with no wiping or cleaning . . .
My experience is the same. I use Black MZ almost exclusively, lube with an ever-so-light swipe of olive oil/beeswax, and don't swab between shots. I've never had any kind of crusty build-up.

FWIW it's very humid where I live.
 
Lead melts at about 600 degrees. What would happen if you heated the barrel enough to melt the ball just a little bit. I am not knowledgeable in metallurgy and am curious as to weather or not the barrel would be damaged.
 
Lead melts at about 600 degrees. What would happen if you heated the barrel enough to melt the ball just a little bit. I am not knowledgeable in metallurgy and am curious as to weather or not the barrel would be damaged.

You risk setting off the powder charge.
 
The ball creates an obstruction if halfway down the barrel, and the fire point of cotton fabric (patching) is 410 degrees F , well before lead melts.
 
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