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G. Gedney Godwin ramrods?

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I'm not sure, but would guess it's the "standard' modern thread
for accessories; will look to see here if any replies match my
thought on it...(10x32, something like that?) The original Mr.
Godwin passed on many years ago, a fellow now using the name
goes to re-enactments and sets up a table; I recall in the mid-
1970's visiting Mr. Godwin and buying much of my Rev War re-
enactment equipment, near Valley Forge, Pa.
 
10x32 would be good, and the 42" length is perfect. It just can't have a diameter greater than .275 or it won't fit, also too thin and it will fall out of the musket.
 
Has anyone bought a G. Godwin Brown Bess ramrod?

Just need to know the diameter and thread pitch of the threaded end.

The original Rammer on my ca. 1975 Pedersoli Brown Bess Carbine had a two piece construction and the "button" was poorly soldered in place and came loose in the 1980's. I took it into the shop and during free time, got help from our machinists on setting it up in a lathe so the end wouldn't bend out of shape while turning. Then I got distracted by another Marine, hit the wrong lever and watched in horror as the lathe cut the rammer too short before I could stop it.

I kept the pieces, but then I thought to try what Godwin advertised as a higher quality Rammer on special order. As I recall, I asked for it to be threaded 10-32 threaded tip for accessories. Godwin didn't actually make these rammers, but had someone else do it. I was VERY pleased with the replacement Rammer and the quality and fit were excellent.

When I ordered my replacement custom order Rammer, I called them to discuss the length, diameter, threads, etc. and got exactly what I wanted, if not better. So I would suggest you do the same thing.

Gus
 
I sent Godwin an email 5-6 days ago.....some of these companies aren't very responsive.

That's because they are out in trucks driving from event to event, and when they are not driving they are processing credit/debit card orders. ;)

I got mine from Track. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/527/1/RAMROD-BB-2 Unfortunately they are out of stock.....

IF you need one bad, I think I could put you onto a used, stock, Pedersoli ramrod. PM me if interested.

LD
 
Thank You but my goal is to upgrade from the Pedersoli, just to do it , and keep the current ramrod as a spare.

I dont really need it , the factory one works. I just read a lot about the brazed on heads failing and everyone's like, if you actually plan to live fire a lot get a made in USA ramrod.
 
Thank You but my goal is to upgrade from the Pedersoli, just to do it , and keep the current ramrod as a spare.

I dont really need it , the factory one works. I just read a lot about the brazed on heads failing and everyone's like, if you actually plan to live fire a lot get a made in USA ramrod.

The trouble with the factory rods may be the heads/buttons were soldered on with some kind of soft solder, though I don't know which. If they had actually been brazed or "silver brazed aka silver soldered," then you would see a brass looking ring around the joint. I silver soldered a few heads/buttons back on with higher temp silver solder and they never came loose again.

Gus
 
I found 3 sellers of US made ramrods for the 1816 Springfield repros, one is way too thin at .220 and 2 of the sellers have yet to respond.

I'll just use the factory rod in the meantime.

Any well made rod that is close to .274 diameter and 43" long will work. I've even found some 1842 Springfield rods.

.274 is the factory diameter and that is tight in the channel. I can't go any wider.
 
There must be such a ramrod available from Dixie Gun Works!?

Getting one from Dixie can be an iffy matter. At one time I tried to negotiate supplying these rods to them. A relative had a commercial machine business and could make them. But DGW only wanted to purchase a couple at a time. They didn't want to buy in any quantity. That made the arrangement unprofitable. I got the impression they are on a constant search for suppliers. BTW, the rod on my ca. Navy Arms/Ped. BB kit has a one piece steel rod. No issue of button falling off. But, I suspect expensive to make.
 
Thank You all for the info, I got one from Lodgewood . It's a little thinner and just a hair shorter which is actually good , for both. It is secure in the channel but comes out easier.

It is threaded for something that fits no accessory I have so taking a shot in the dark I spent $15 on an original 1816-1842 wiper worm. Worst case, it don't fit, I have a neat period "curio".
 
Thank You all for the info, I got one from Lodgewood . It's a little thinner and just a hair shorter which is actually good , for both. It is secure in the channel but comes out easier.

It is threaded for something that fits no accessory I have so taking a shot in the dark I spent $15 on an original 1816-1842 wiper worm. Worst case, it don't fit, I have a neat period "curio".

Back when one could still occasionally get a good deal on original M1842 Musket Worms, I bought them and ran a tap through them for different screw threads that matched the Steel Rammers folks were using. I also advertised this as a service when I was doing repair work at the NSSA Spring and Fall National Championships. This because Original Worms didn't fit anything else but Original Steel Rammers.

I would suggest you find out what the threads are on your Replacement Rammer you got from Lodgewood. Then check to see if you can buy a tap for that size threads and re-tap the Worm so it fits your Replacement Rammer.

Gus
 
I think , before I do all that , that the Lodgewood rods use the original threading. The worm goes on about 1/4 way easily but the threads of the worm have old oil and rust in them. Maybe , if I clean the worm , it will go right on.

I use a brass cleaning rod with a jag and breech scraper for actual cleaning, the worm is more just to have the authentic tool just because.
 

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