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Fusil de Chasse by Pecatonica

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Joined
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Surry County, North Carolina
The parts box for their Tulle Fusil de Chasse arrived today from Pecatonica River. Everything seems in good order- I was a little surprised that I got a medium grade Curly Maple when I ordered straight, but no harm in that.
As for parts, they did a great job soldering on the under lugs and the front sight of the 20 gauge oct-to-round Colerain barrel. A minimal cost saved me hours of time experimenting/cussing with that task. (I know my limitations about that. Learning will come later.) I am also getting a different side plate than the one they sent. The 3" distancing between the bolt holes will make the bolts uncomfortably positioned at the very very front of the lock plate and way at the tail end of the bolster, which I am not comfy with. I ordered another french fusil sideplate (MBS) that will accommodate the 5 1/2 L&R Early Flintlock better I think.
A quick positioning of lock/stock/barrel shows the placements are looking good. Yay!
I will start off with the Butt plate. I haven't done this type before so may be a big challenge for me.
I hope to remember to post some photos as I progress.

(As an aside, my Tulle Fusil de Chasse from Clay Smith is also scheduled to arrive today. This will be a neat comparison!)
 

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The parts box for their Tulle Fusil de Chasse arrived today from Pecatonica River. Everything seems in good order- I was a little surprised that I got a medium grade Curly Maple when I ordered straight, but no harm in that.
As for parts, they did a great job soldering on the under lugs and the front sight of the 20 gauge oct-to-round Colerain barrel. A minimal cost saved me hours of time experimenting/cussing with that task. (I know my limitations about that. Learning will come later.) I am also getting a different side plate than the one they sent. The 3" distancing between the bolt holes will make the bolts uncomfortably positioned at the very very front of the lock plate and way at the tail end of the bolster, which I am not comfy with. I ordered another french fusil sideplate (MBS) that will accommodate the 5 1/2 L&R Early Flintlock better I think.
A quick positioning of lock/stock/barrel shows the placements are looking good. Yay!
I will start off with the Butt plate. I haven't done this type before so may be a big challenge for me.
I hope to remember to post some photos as I progress.

(As an aside, my Tulle Fusil de Chasse from Clay Smith is also scheduled to arrive today. This will be a neat comparison!)
Check out Bill Raby vids on building one
 
Haveing the rear sidenail far from the plug area avoids that cutting a notch or drilling through the plug tang its this brings your front side nail more into the tip of the lock plate then fine so long as it dos'nt impeed the m 'spring any . Side nails don't HAVE to be true they can angle a bit to avoid rod channel ect a you will be tapping the plate with lock inlet in situ any way . . But its your gun I allways studied old guns & what they did . but not use the' paint by numbers ' approach A principal fault in modern barrels is they have too deep threading & longer plugs than are traditional so people vent too far forward. Its not unsafe to reduce the engagement . A Brown Bess has scarce 3'8 th" depth theaded plug "At least three good thrids" was the old rule . No plug of mine ever failed proof.at Brum

. Rudyard
 
The parts box for their Tulle Fusil de Chasse arrived today from Pecatonica River. Everything seems in good order- I was a little surprised that I got a medium grade Curly Maple when I ordered straight, but no harm in that.
As for parts, they did a great job soldering on the under lugs and the front sight of the 20 gauge oct-to-round Colerain barrel. A minimal cost saved me hours of time experimenting/cussing with that task. (I know my limitations about that. Learning will come later.) I am also getting a different side plate than the one they sent. The 3" distancing between the bolt holes will make the bolts uncomfortably positioned at the very very front of the lock plate and way at the tail end of the bolster, which I am not comfy with. I ordered another french fusil sideplate (MBS) that will accommodate the 5 1/2 L&R Early Flintlock better I think.
A quick positioning of lock/stock/barrel shows the placements are looking good. Yay!
I will start off with the Butt plate. I haven't done this type before so may be a big challenge for me.
I hope to remember to post some photos as I progress.

(As an aside, my Tulle Fusil de Chasse from Clay Smith is also scheduled to arrive today. This will be a neat comparison!)

A question; will you be cursing with a French accent during the build.....as one should when working on a French ML ?
 
Today I worked on the Fusil de Chasse buttplate.
Pecatonica partially inlet the plate but as usual much needed to be done. Thinking about how to handle this thing, I decided upon an idea- I made a paper stencil of the pointed end of the top of the buttplate (the "return"?) to give me a good idea of the wood I needed to remove. It worked pretty good and little-by-little I carved away and the plate went down. I used lots of lip-stick as "inletting black".
After about four hours I got it on and for my first one like this I am happy with the accomplishment.
I drilled the bottom screw in but I am not sure if it should have one at the elbow of the plate (like on a Bess) or on the top. I am guessing the top since it has no tab for pinning.
Here are a few photos.
(P.s.: Moderator can you please move this to Gunbuilder's Bench Forum please?)
 

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I was able to enjoy some work done on this gun today. It was warmer outside and so I finally opened up the shop windows and doors!
I first cleaned-up the butt plate and installed the second screw at the bend and removed some of the fat on the buttstock. I then got to work on getting the barrel in. A small chip of wood was breaking off at the breech/tang area so I glued it in place this evening and allow to dry in the house where its warmer.
For the breech plug, I followed Dave Person's suggestion of notching the radius curve on the bolster and made a simpler right angle at the tang/bolster. It was so much easier to get in that way. The barrel looks like a pretty good fit and the touch-hole location will be in good position with the pre-inlet lock. I feel lucky :)
 

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