Frizzen question.

[Crow#21957]

When a frizzen gets all scratched up What is the reccomended way to clean it up and what is bad enough that it should be cleaned up. Something about a flintlock just makes me feel good.
I'm thinking a fine grit stone and not to try and take the deepest grooves/scratches out.

 

[garypl]

If it’s sparking good and not causing excessive damage to your flints I wouldn’t touch it - why try to fix something that isn’t causing any problems?

I mentioned in an earlier thread that I’ve been shooting a Siler lock in the same rifle since 1981, rarely have failure to ignite the pan (unless I’m trying to squeeze out those last few shots out of an old flint) and I have never done anything to the frizzen.

 

[hanshi]

If the frizzen face has ruts that are problematic just use sandpaper to knock off any burrs. Otherwise just leave it be as garypl recommended.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I will log that idea in my "list of lame excuses to get out of doing housework" file.

Ex; Sorry honey, I'm polishing my frizzens today.

 

[Crow#21957]

Thankyou guys, that helps my thinking.

 

[Crow#21957]

And thsnkyou Col. Batguano that's good.

 

[FlinterNick]

Leave it alone, frizzens are supposed to be scratched, if it sparks well enough it’s fine.

If it’s not sparking and there are deep gouges then the frizzen has likely lost some of its case hardened surface and needs to be rehardened and tempered. If you’r going to polish out the scratches, I’d anneal first then lightly polish it with some 150-180 emery paper or pads. Don’t use a wheel or stone on high speeds you risk taking off too much steel and could interrupt the geometry of the lock.

 

[Crow#21957]

Thanks,, sounds like if it's working don't mess with it. Thanks again

 

[Grenadier1758]

If there are deep gouges and flints keep shattering when in use, the problem may be geometry of how the flint strikes the face of the frizzen. The flint needs to scrape the face of the frizzen to draw off the sparks. This may be as simple as putting a wedge of leather thong under the rear edge of the flint near the jaw screw or flipping the flint over to move where the flint edge strikes the frizzen. In the worst of cases, the hammer may have to be bent to get the proper striking angle. And of course, the hardness of the frizzen has to be correct. Through hardness is better than case hardening, but not all of us have a forge to harden and temper parts.

 

[rich pierce]

If there are deep gouges and flints keep shattering when in use, the problem may be geometry of how the flint strikes the face of the frizzen. The flint needs to scrape the face of the frizzen to draw off the sparks. This may be as simple as putting a wedge of leather thong under the rear edge of the flint near the jaw screw or flipping the flint over to move where the flint edge strikes the frizzen. In the worst of cases, the hammer may have to be bent to get the proper striking angle. And of course, the hardness of the frizzen has to be correct. Through hardness is better than case hardening, but not all of us have a forge to harden and temper parts.

You hit it on the head. If the gouging has happened, it will happen again in time unless you change something.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Elongated scratches are no bother, but as Rich and grenadier say, if the frizzen has developed a groove across the face, like a trough, it shows something needs adjusting. This might be as simple as turning the flint over.

Best,
Pukka.