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Frizzen advice needed

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You can also polish the bearing surfaces on the internal parts of the lock to improve performance. A sparing amount of graphite grease keeps them spinning smoothly. My Silers have thousands of shots and still spark well. I have sanded the frizzens a couple of times.
 
@brazosland, you may want notch the flint leather as @Loyalist Dave has often recommended. The leading edge of the flint will be moved a short distance from the face of the frizzen. You will also have a bit of flexibility in placing the flint in the jaws of the lock. See his recommendations for cutting the leather.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/leather-to-hold-the-flint.132167/#post-1839304

I’ve been doing this for a long time. And I recommend it…it works.

Thanks!
 
A wet wheel grinder was one of the best things I ever bought. I just got through refacing the fizzen of a pedersoli Kentucky pistol. Polished, shiny, lookin good and sparking well. I actually got it for shapening wood workings tools.
 
A friend brought me this lock yesterday and the face of the frizzen is pretty abused. Pics below.

I know there are professional services to reface/reharden etc, but what can be done in the meantime?

400 grit sandpaper to smooth out the finish? A courser grit first?

The flint seems a bit short which may be a contributing cause of the problem with it hitting too far down the face. The lock sparks well, but I bet it eats flints too.

Comments and experience are appreciated!

View attachment 207904View attachment 207905View attachment 207906
Reminds me of my tc renegade from when I was a kid. No one sold flints around me and this old guy showed me how to use and make chirt (sp?) flints. Worked. What did I know. Replaced it years later. Did try redoing it, but couldn’t get the hardening right. Does it work and you’re just embarrassed by the ugly or are there problems?
 
I intend to share this information with the woman of the house!
Be very careful here! It's not just what you say, but how you say it, and to whom, that can get you in serious trouble! In many cases, silence is golden, and safer.

mhb - MIke
 
This seems to be a constant thing. Some do not understand that itt is steel being cut off that are the sparks. If it works just leave it alone.

You are not wrong…however, an uneven surface will wear the flint considerably faster. And, that same chatter that wears the flint will result in less contact down the face of the hammer and thus less “sparks” as a result. A smooth face yields a smooth swipe from top to bottom and more of the flashy things.
 
I believe this could happen on a lock with a frizzen that is not properly heat treated. A good quality lock should have a frizzen that is hardened and tempered all the way through the frizzen. I’ve been shooting a Siler lock since @1980 and have never had to do anything to the frizzen after thousands of shots and it still sparks like new.
 
On a case-hardened frizzen, grinding as I described would shorten the life of a frizzen; if needed you could fix that by re-hardening or half-facing the frizzen. Modern frizzens are hardened clear through the frizzen, so it isn't an issue in the same way.
 
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