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Fowler butt plate screws

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About this size, the head is about 1/2" across, they are about an inch long. I wish I could give you a size but I bought an assortment from Blacksmith Bolts and picked the ones out of the pile I thought looked about right.

fowler selfies 004.JPG


update! I just thought of this from my fowler plans. I used round head screws; I didn't think the flat head ones shown in the plans would look right.

100_7439.JPG
 
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Hi,
Many original fowlers had large flat head screws. The screw in the heel was simply filed to conform to the heel. Oval headed screws are fine too. Depending on how you inlet the butt plate, your heel screw may be going through some air before engaging the wood so make sure it is long enough to have secure purchase in the wood. I use #10 screws 1 1/2" long for the heel.

dave
 
I use some real monsters for BP screws. I get them out of old wood chairs I buy at auctions. You can buy whole groups of old beat up chairs for less than $5. I take the screws out and bust the rest up for firewood. Mostly all large flat head screws. If I want oval heads I chuck them up in my drill press and use a file to shape the heads.
 
I always called them round head (no big deal) which mine probably are after I cuck them up in a drill and file them down to fit the cockeyed off center countersinks that I unfortunately cut way too often.

I drilled for the holes in my fowler butt plate way before I discovered centering drills, there are at least 3 or 4 dowel plugs under each hole where I drilled the pilot hole off center too far to have the screw head fit the countersink. Second build, I was pretty green and learned as I struggled through it.

I only had two hickory plugs in at this point, more were to follow. I am glad this kind of stuff gets covered up.



Buttplate almost two months.jpg


In spite of my ineptitude and calling oval head screws round head screws the gun came out OK.

fowler selfies 006.JPG
 
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I use some real monsters for BP screws. I get them out of old wood chairs I buy at auctions. You can buy whole groups of old beat up chairs for less than $5. I take the screws out and bust the rest up for firewood. Mostly all large flat head screws. If I want oval heads I chuck them up in my drill press and use a file to shape the heads.
Very clever tip! As an auction-goer myself, never would have thought of that, but then again I don't see too many beat-up chairs. I did make a note some time back about Blacksmith screws. Thanks.
 
Thanks, it was nightmare because at the time I thought the wood had to be a mirror image of the inside of the butt plate. I made it that way but it took months, literally, one little chip at a time. I also had the bright idea to start the inlet with extra wood so I could practice inletting as I went down, BIG mistake, once I started, I couldn't go back.
 
Well, I used the #10 x 1-1/2 ovals that I had in stock, and looks about right. Does anyone secure the tang of the butt plate with a pinned lug? This butt plate did not come with a lug for that purpose but I could easily add one. Is that worth the effort?




IMG_5436.JPG
IMG_5439.JPG
 
I always called them round head (no big deal) which mine probably are after I cuck them up in a drill and file them down to fit the cockeyed off center countersinks that I unfortunately cut way too often.

I drilled for the holes in my fowler butt plate way before I discovered centering drills, there are at least 3 or 4 dowel plugs under each hole where I drilled the pilot hole off center too far to have the screw head fit the countersink. Second build, I was pretty green and learned as I struggled through it.

I only had two hickory plugs in at this point, more were to follow. I am glad this kind of stuff gets covered up.



View attachment 194273

In spite of my ineptitude and calling oval head screws round head screws the gun came out OK.

View attachment 194274
Cockeyed, off center countersinks? WHO LET YOU INTO MY SHOP?!!?

Good to know I'm not the only one!

I'm learning more every day that the great masters of the gunsmithing art were masters at hiding errors better than most. To quote the great painter Bob Ross, "just happy little accidents". :)
 
Well, I used the #10 x 1-1/2 ovals that I had in stock, and looks about right. Does anyone secure the tang of the butt plate with a pinned lug? This butt plate did not come with a lug for that purpose but I could easily add one. Is that worth the effort?




View attachment 194697View attachment 194698
You need to put your toe screw about an inch higher.
 
I agree on the toe screw.

If your inlet is tight and the top screw pulls the butt plate a little forward into the inlet, I don't think a forward pin or hook is necessary. I couldn't pry my buttplate return out with a crowbar.

Your inletting job looks really good.

Here is where I put my lower screw;

buttplate inlet complete.jpg
 
You need to put your toe screw about an inch higher.

I like it where it is with this particular butt plate. I put it a little higher on rifles when the heel screw is on the top, but with the heel screw on the crown of the bend being visible from the back, I didn't want the screws to appear too close together. The camera angle doesn't quite do it justice, but there is a proportionate amount of brass on the sides and below the screw; were the butt plate wider like the one Eric Krewson showed, it would have been appropriate to locate the screw a little higher.
 
I had one rifle that I plugged the screw hole and redid it 3 times before I gave up in frustration and drilled the darn thing out, filled the hole with Acraglas and lots of flock and put the screw in about 1/8 turn out of N/S line up. It turned out perfect after the final tightening. Like the man says, good thing it's hidden.
 
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