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Flints with "hump" on them

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I sorted through some flints (English Black) at the range last week when I needed a new flint. A couple of the flints have a prominent "hump" on the "top" and I could not get them to clamp securely in the leather in the jaws. I saved them - I have no knapping skills yet but I could use them to try knapping if someone has advice. TIA. baxter
 
If knapping doesn't work make a little jig of a flat chunk of wood to hold the flints hump-up in a doverailed groove and use a jeweler's 1" Mizzy or diamond wheel in a Dremel to plane down the hump (wear a mask or run a fan - the dust should not be inhaled - silicosis) The wheels cost about a 45¢ each and 85¢ for the mandrel.
http://www.armstrongtoolsupply.com/abrasives/mizzy-wheels.html#2
 
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marty_feldman.jpg
 
Why did I know someone was going to say that when I saw the O.P. :youcrazy: And then of course comes the picture! :rotf: .
 
If you know someone with a tile saw you can easily modify flints that are humpy or uneven on top.

Take a pair of cheap slip joint pliers and glue a leather pad to each ridgy jaw. Grip flint front and rear in this custom tool and trim. Don't go too far- all you need is a quarter inch wide platform more or less parallel to the bottom surface.

I save 'em up till there are a dozen or more that need work, then go visit my brother, the owner of the tile saw.

White Fox
 
Those are the flints you use on Wednesdays, HUMP DAY!!!!! ........watch yer top knot..................
 
I do it on my 8 inch grinder on the green wheel.Just takes a second per flint to grind a flat on top of the hump.
I hold them in my fingers with thin rubber covered Kevlar glass handling gloves. It can also be done with pliers or vise-grips and leather pad to hold the flint by the sides.
The green wheel works fine but a regular grinding wheel doesn't. Mike D.
 
The "humps" that cause such problems are generally the bulbs of percussion or secondary bulbs from the blade production sequence of the knapping process...it's a good thing in the sense that you are getting a traditionally (more or less) manufactured flint, but an indicator that your supplier is content to sell you a product that historically would have been a reject consigned to the firestarter/scrap basket. Obviously when you are buying face-to-face, you're going to toss back the "humped" flints...it's the mail-order trade that seems to dispose of the less useful flints most frequently. I'm glad to read the methods referenced above for dealing with these. Keep up the good work, lads, and make the most of what "Tommy Trades-by-Mail (Sight Unseen)" sends you. I have more than enough strike-a-light flints, myself. Now, to find the die grinder and chuck up some discs...
 
I'd say a full 25-30 percent of the 5/8"s x 3/4"s black English flints I get from TOW are humped.
The green wheel grinds the flat so fast it is hardly any inconvenience and kind of fun to do.
I like it because it leaves both hands free to hold and position the flint.
Sure would like to find some chert so I could make my own.
Is there some place to buy good chert nodes for spauling and knapping? Mike D.
 
I have found over the years that even when I hand pick 'em I manage to get a few that don't fit in the cock like they should. As for mail order, I have had great luck with all of the flints I have ordered from TOW. So far anyway.

Until this thread I never had a name for flints with that hump where it needs to be flat. I do now. From this day forward they are eyegores.
 
My bench grinder has a standard stone wheel on one end and a wire brush wheel on the other so I left it like it was.
I first tried Mizzy wheels then settled on these diamond cutter wheels from Widget Supply for my Dremel...goes through flint material like it's butter.

 
Some locks are fussy and I try to avoid them. That fussiness is seldom talked about but a deal breaker for me. If the flint has to be exactly this length and no more than this thickness, I am guessing our ancestors would have been unable to fire their guns about half the time.

Added in edit: I also think the less expensive and less specialized the gun, the more a large lock makes sense for reliability under non-laboratory conditions. In my thinking, a Manton lock could be as particular as it wants to be because the man owning it would have access to the very best of everything including flints and powder. For the militia volunteer or even the longhunter, reliability of fire under adverse conditions probably trumped speed of ignition. Big lock, big rock, big frizzen, big pan, strong springs usually equals a lot of sparks and good pan ignition.
 
Rich Pierce said:
If the flint has to be exactly this length and no more than this thickness
Speaking only for myself, in my cases it was never a matter of ignition...the hump back Tom Fuller black English flints I've trimmed down were only to ensure they stayed firmly clamped in the jaws/leather and didn't squeeze forward, or get loose and drop out at the range, or drop out in the leaves while hunting, etc.
The bottoms of them were still flat and presented the leading edge to the steel the same before and after removing the top hump.
 
Exactly! Thanks for the useful and the inane replies all. I took some efforts to explain the
appearance of my flints, knowing that "humped flints" was not going to work for more than mirth. I do have a Dremel and I like the dovetailed bit of wood suggestion. "Mizzy"? With all due respect to TOW, they have to hump their humped flints to someone - luck of the draw methinks until "humped flints" are all that I receive. Thanks again. baxter
 
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