Flintlock misadventures... So many!

Discussion in 'Flintlock Rifles' started by DaveC, Dec 1, 2019.

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  1. Dec 10, 2019 #21

    sussexmuzllodr

    sussexmuzllodr

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    I keep on hand some firecracker fuses the water proof type for times like this.

    SM
     
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  2. Dec 10, 2019 #22

    Sidney Smith

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    5/8th flints makes me think its one of those dinky little worthless locks like those on Traditions guns. From all the issues the OP had, IMO this is the reason why. I don't understand why those little locks were put on a rifle in the first place.
     
  3. Dec 10, 2019 #23

    DaveC

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    Well, I removed the lock from the rifle, and I tried my darndest to use a CO2 discharger to blow out the .310" ball and too-tight-patch. This was all backed by 25 grains of FFFg. Apparently, something must have fouled or dampened the charge, because I tried everything to make it go bang before I left the range... Well, I didn't opt for the matchlock method, which would definitely let me know if the powder was gone for good.

    I'm embarrassed to say just how many CO2 cartridges I went through... Plenty, let's say. The .310 ball is so small and tight, I just don't think there's enough surface area. I got it to go up to about a third of the barrel. So then I dripped some penetrating oil down the bore to see if that would saturate the patch and make it slicker over night. I re-seated the ball, and went through another set of CO2 cartridges to no avail. I ordered what I thought was a .32 ball puller, but when it arrived, it was a .45-.50, so it didn't fit... Got a new one coming from Track of the Wolf, and still another from Jedediah with the belief that at this point I just might need two if something goes very awry with one or the other. Also, I'll never be without one again.

    If I had to do this over again, I'd have ground and crunched up some FFF powder and used my vent pick to put it down the vent hole little by little. Then I'd have gotten a slow match or a smouldering punk or a modern match or grill lighter and set off the squib load. That should have probably worked better. I'm learning stuff... Albeit the hard way!
     
  4. Dec 10, 2019 #24

    smo

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    Try an air compressor, be sure too point the muzzle in a safe direction first!

    Don’t even ask me how I know that .....
     
  5. Dec 10, 2019 #25

    Zonie

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    I think an air compressor is unlikely to do what the CO2 cartridges couldn't.

    A really good air compressor is doing good to create 150 psi of pressure. Those CO2 cartridges are pressurized to over 800 psi.

    A small amount of black powder can easily create over 1000 psi.
     
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  6. Dec 10, 2019 #26

    Col. Batguano

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    The problem with both of those is that it's really hard to get a good seal around a touch hole to build the requisite pressure for those CO2 dischargers, and, as was said, a normal shop compressor only will generate about 150 psi,

    My Plan A and the first way to get it out of there is to shoot it out, Just put a pile of 4Fg over the touch hole and keep stuffing it through there with the vent pick until it wont go in there any more. Then shoot. With that small amount of powder under the ogive you are likely to get something of a prolonged psssst--bang. Yes, a firecracker fuse of a propane torch would probably light any powder that is in there too.

    Plan B is pulling the ball in the conventional way.

    I happen to have a plan C that involves a double yoke coming off a scuba tank, but that's too much stuff to lug around to a normal shoot. But still, 3000 psi and a rubber gasket under the yoke ring to make a seal will blow just about anything out of there, and the slow build to peak pressure negates the possibility of ringing a barrel if it's stuck further down. If I REALLY had to, I could hook it up to my scuba compressor, and go all the way up to 5000 psi, but that would involve shooting the loaded barrel inside my shop indoors! For both of those though, you have to pull the barrel.

    Plan D is pulling the breech plug and driving it out.

    I suppose there would be a plan E, but I haven't figured that one out yet. Likely it would involve leasing a gorilla from the zoo for part of the afternoon though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2019
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  7. Dec 10, 2019 #27

    Sidney Smith

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    I've used compressed air from a 5 gallon air tank set at 90 psi, and it had plenty of oomph to shove a .54 caliber load out of the bore. I used a rubber tipped air nozzle simply shoved into the touch hole after the liner was removed. A Co2 cartridge may be loaded to 800psi, but how much propellant is in that cartridge as compared to an air compressor?. 150 psi may not sound like a lot as compared to 800, but the amount of air and the time it can stay prolonged at that 150 psi means more than a quick 800psi blast then the small amount of propellant is used up. And if the seal is not optimum then that 800psi goes down drastically.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2019
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  8. Dec 11, 2019 #28

    tbob38

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    Depends on the air compressor. A US Navy ship I was on had 3 types of air compressors, 175 psi, 550 psi, and 3000 psi. They were termed lp, mp and hp compressors.
     
  9. Dec 11, 2019 #29

    Griz44Mag

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    I would venture a guess that VERY FEW people have access to a 3k psi compressor.
    Maybe a scuba shop that refills tanks? They probably don't want you walking in with a rifle and asking them to help you shoot it....
     
  10. Dec 11, 2019 #30

    Col. Batguano

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    I have a compressor that goes up to 5000 psi, but I only run it and fill my bank tanks to 3850. Yes, it is for filling scuba tanks. Yes it was expensive. You don't need the compressor though. A normal scuba tank is filled to 3000 psi. Just a flexible HP hose with a yoke on both sides (used to equalize pressure between tanks) would do it for you. Lots more people own scuba tanks than HP compressors.

    If the stuck ball doesn't come out with 3000 psi it's probably welded in place.
     
  11. Dec 11, 2019 #31

    Britsmoothy

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    Oh boy :doh:
     
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  12. Dec 11, 2019 #32

    Zonie

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    When I write things on the forum, I'm addressing what I think of as an average person.
    I can think of dozens of methods of removing a stuck ball but I also know that very few people would have access to things like a EDM (Electrical Discharge Machine) or similar things that would be owned by the Navy or large manufacturing companies.

    That's why I grumble to myself when I suggest that someone for instance, can chuck an item in an electric drill to provide rotation and then use a file to reshape it and someone else follows my post with a complete description of how using a precision metal cutting lathe with a Numerical Control unit on it like he owns is the only good way to do it.

    That said, I seriously doubt that many of our members have access to an air compressor that can develop pressures greater than 150 psi.
    Most of them won't even do that high of a pressure, nor is there a need for them to do so.
     
  13. Dec 12, 2019 #33

    Britsmoothy

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    Yeah...didn't you know you need an air compressor for your flint lock?
    Here's mine.
    PETAirCompressor.png
    That'll shift it!



    :)
     
  14. Dec 12, 2019 #34

    Dick Sargent

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    Two pages of suggestions and no results. Why not just pull the breach plug and push it out?
     
  15. Dec 12, 2019 #35

    DaveC

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    I'm waiting for a screw-type ball puller to arrive in the mail. I have not gone to the range to try to use a squib charge stuffed behind the dead charge through the touch hole.
     
  16. Dec 12, 2019 #36

    wparent

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    Pulling the breach plug makes good sense. Seems like most never remove them. I remove mine for good cleaning so why not to remove a stuck projectile
     
  17. Dec 12, 2019 #37

    DaveC

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    If it comes to that... Thanks for the tip!
     
  18. Dec 12, 2019 #38

    Griz44Mag

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    :thumb:
    Before screwing into the ball to pull it, wipe the bore clean and lube it so once the ball starts to more it will have an easy journey to freedom...
    And when you pull it, anchor the rod and pull the gun off the rod, it's a lot easier to get a good grip on the gun than a good grip on the rod.
    I would also suggest not using the wood rod in the gun, I have seen a couple of those broken or the end pulled off the rod.
    I use a brass rod with a t handle at the range, it works great for pulling a ball....
     
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  19. Dec 12, 2019 #39

    DaveC

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    I've got a long stainless rod that I use for a "range rod" I'll probably try to clamp a set of vice grips to the end of the rod, put those in the crook of a tree, and attempt to pull the rifle back such that the ball is pulled out by the "fixed" rod. I expect with such a small surface area, it might pull out a time or two...

    For now, I've got some 3-in-1 penetrant down there... a few drops. Hoping that it will saturate the patch and keep it loose. I'll try cleaning the bore ahead of the ball's passage.
     
  20. Dec 12, 2019 #40

    Griz44Mag

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    Once the ball starts to move it will extract a lot easier than you think it would.
     
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