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Flint lock flush tool

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Send me $10 and I’ll ship you one ... after you use it once, maybe twice, you’ll remove the lock, plug the touch hole with a toothpick and pour water down the barrel, then tip the firelock up & down a few times - then repeat ...

What does that tell you? Some accessories are a solution to a problem that never existed ... and only serve to separate you from your $$ ...
 
round tooth picks are the beat. next time you go to a CHINESE restaurant to eat grab a hand full on the way out, they all ways use round ones!
 
I have used a flintlock flush tool for more years than I can remember. The only thing to do to make it work as it should is, 1 remove the o ring and, 2 replace it with a sink repair gasket. drill the gasket hole about half way through and push it on the flush tool. Now when you draw it up against the side of the barrel it won't leak.

Jim
 
I have one as well that I only tried a couple times.

Now I pull off the lock and just lay the flintlock on old towels vent down and with the barrel muzzle lower by a few inches than the breech. We have a stationary tub beside the washing machine that is the perfect spot - though the top of the steps on the back deck is good as well. I use a shotgun bore mop soaked in soapy water and then dry patches rather then filling the bore.

It gets just as wet around the vent as it did trying to use the flush arrangement. But at least laying on the towels gravity takes it away from the stock seams.
 
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Send me $10 and I’ll ship you one ... after you use it once, maybe twice, you’ll remove the lock, plug the touch hole with a toothpick and pour water down the barrel, then tip the firelock up & down a few times - then repeat ...

What does that tell you? Some accessories are a solution to a problem that never existed ... and only serve to separate you from your $$ ...

Bingo... No need to re-design the wheel of "traditional muzzleloading" such modern gadgets don't need to exist and this is one out of the many.

The quill end of a feather works a 100 times better as does a twig or toothpick as mentioned above by other members.
 
I beg to differ. I've tried the flush tool and I've tried the feathers, toothpicks and twigs. Sometimes they work and other times they do not and I have gotten that black water on my guns finish. This is what I use and have not had any issues. They are powerful magnets on top of a piece of rubber roofing material.
IMG-3963.jpg
 
I have had trouble with toothpicks leaking as well. I have a small dogwood tree outside my shop and cut a small green twig to plug the touch hole with, it conforms to the hole better than a toothpick and seldom leaks.
 
Bet I would knock the magnets off while cleaning. I am I am in the toothpick or feather stuck in the touchhole folk. I have knocked them off too. But unless you need pliers to pry the magnets off I see no better.

Agreed, I don't usually clean from the comfort of a workbench but usually by a fire at a period event or shoot so modern gadgets are a personal no go for me. Again, no need to fix a problem that doesn't need fixing as I see it.
 
I just recently got the one from TOW and it works good. I have used it on all my flintlock rifles calibers ranging from 58 to 32 with all different barrel dimensions and it works good so far no complaints.
 
I have had trouble with toothpicks leaking as well. I have a small dogwood tree outside my shop and cut a small green twig to plug the touch hole with, it conforms to the hole better than a toothpick and seldom leaks.
Never personally ran into a problem using toothpick’s with the exception of two flinter’s. My Bess and a custom J.Garner built one I have. For those two I use the tips of wooden BBQ skewer’s. I picked up a whole manure load of those for less than a dollar which will last me for ever.

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
Maybe a couple of decades ago and in one my classic "overkill" moments, I purchased a set of four probably early 19th century, but "correct" for 18th century "C" clamps. I later learned they were normally used for attaching to quilting frames. I sewed thick leather around the stationary end of one clamp so as not to damage the Brown Bess stock and punched out some thick leather discs that would be placed against the barrel under the moveable end of the C Clamp. I don't remember what I used to "waterproof" the leather discs, but it worked fairly well.

Then I found some feathers big enough to fit the vent hole on the Bess and never used my "overkill" almost period correct C Clamp jig again.

Gus
 
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