Flint life

[kswan]

Hello all.

Im using large English flints on my Lancaster .54. I seem to be getting about 25 -30 or so shots before having to knapp or change flints. Whats the usually life of a flint?

Thanks

 

[excess650]

It varies by the flint, quality of the lock, and how the flint is positioned in the cock in relationship to the frizzen. A flint might shatter on the 1st shot or go 50 shots or more without touching. I've had flints last in excess of 100 shots.

 

[coloradoclyde]

25 -30....I'd say that's pretty good.

 

[Stumpkiller]

That's not too bad before some attention is needed. I use a flint nibbler to keep the edge sharp - or the spine of a knife pressed down.

Have even used the edge of a P-38 can opener!

If you are brave and your lock rugged you can use an unloaded gun and lower the flint so that the heel of the frizzen rests against just the upper tip of the flint and press down hard.

I wouldn't make it a regular method - as it may eventually loosen the frizzen.

It's called "hammering the flint".

 

[BigBoreBLR]

Put the gun at half cock, then look at the gap between the frizzen and flint. I ge it maybe 1/8" gap, and even across. Some locks like bevel up, some like bevel down. You want it to scrape across the frizzen with a little push in, not bash into the frizzen hard. This is lock geometry, hwo high and how close the flint tip is, and that arc mates up well or not so well to the curve of the frizzen. A few locks made have updates for better shaped frizzens or newer shaped cocks.

I have not had good luck with track of the wolf flints.

Before a hunt, I put a new flint in and make it do 3 or 4 sparks. Don't want an unknown one crumble infront of a nice buck......

 

[M. De Land]

If you make a pointed copper pressure flake tool and learn how to use it correctly you will maintain a more consistent spark shower and perhaps double the life of the average flint.
In a match I like to tune them up after every relay of ten shots or so. Just takes a minute or two and keeps the edge sharp and uniform which is what maintains consistency and longevity.
It should also make the frizzen last longer although I have not been doing it long enough to know for sure about enhanced frizzen life.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

I only shoot on the club range never on woods walks or historical events For many years I knapped the flint while in the lock as described above... Since a short time I am experimenting with a small diamond file (grade 60) that I regularly use on the sharp of the flint. They only cost a few $, but I am sure they are favorable on the flint life and the biggest benefit I find is that the frizzen remains smoother with less ridges on the surface. You avoid a jagged edge on your flint when you use it. Of course I realize this method is not valid for HC reenactment.

 

[hanshi]

25 or 30 shots is probably about average. I've had them last much longer - 100 or there about - without needing knapping. Had one that gave up the ghost after 4 shots and knapping had no effect. I've also had them "self-knap" and last a long time. Yes, they should "scrape" down the frizzen and not smack it.

 

[kswan]

Thanks for all the replies folks.
M.D. is a pointed copper pressure flake tool like a knapping hammer?

 

[Cruzatte]

If you make a pointed copper pressure flake tool and learn how to use it correctly you will maintain a more consistent spark shower and perhaps double the life of the average flint.
In a match I like to tune them up after every relay of ten shots or so. Just takes a minute or two and keeps the edge sharp and uniform which is what maintains consistency and longevity.
It should also make the frizzen last longer although I have not been doing it long enough to know for sure about enhanced frizzen life.

hotoSmile:

 

[Black Hand]

Just use the spine of your knife to touch up the edge. That way you aren't carrying another single purpose, superfluous non-HC gadget...

 

[kswan]

That makes sense.

 

[Bgraber]

What exactly is a flint nibbler?

 

[M. De Land]

It's a little notched tool usually made of mild steel that hooks over the dull edge of the flint face and breaks off a bit to make a fresh fracture line which is sharp on the corners that cut frizzen steel and make sparks.
The copper pressure flaker does the same thing only affording better control.
The trouble with the diamond file approach is that it does not change the fracture line and keeps the flint face cutting more or less the same place on the frizzen. This encourages shelf cutting the frizzen face in my opinion.
With the pointed copper or mild steel pressure flaker you can move the sharp edge of the flint upward or downward which will not only sharpen the new fracture line but move it's impact point on the frizzen face hence extending both lives.

 

[Stumpkiller]

What exactly is a flint nibbler?

What M.D. said. Just a tool with a little right angle on it to focus pressure on the edge of the flint. I made a very good one from a 1911 Pistol tool. A bit of drill rod works as well. In desperation the spine of a knife (BE CAREFUL).

 

[Flintlock_bob]

Are you only applying pressure by hand or do you give it a little rap with a knife handle or such?

 

[hanshi]

I have a little home made copper hammer/screwdriver that works quite well.

 

[Wes/Tex]

If you tap, do so lightly. You are only flaking off tiny bits along the edge just to sharpen and refresh.

 

[M. De Land]

A good analogy for comparison of an impact tool to a pressure tool is sharpening a stake with a hatchet or a sharp blade. The blade allows much finer, controlled material removal than does the hacking action of the hatchet.
On flint sharpening the same is true only much more so as flint is very hard and brittle compared to a wood stake.
The corners suffer particularly from impact tools and usually break off on and angle rather than straight across. The edge now needs to be taken back even farther to straighten it out to make contact all the way across the frizzen face.
This is the reason that pressure flaking extends flint life and gives a sharper and stronger edge at all stages.