I've completed the finish on my Harpers Ferry pistol stock. When I first got it the bottom of the flash hole was @ couple hundredths of an inch below the edge of the pan. After putting the coats of finish on and reassembly the bottom set a couple of hundredths of an inch above the edge. I spent a few minutes smoothing out under the tang and I still have another hundredth to get flush. I figured that I should get some input before going any further? Everything else looks good and I think removing a little wood under the tang allow me to adjust the height.
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Flash hole position to priming pan?
- Thread starter Bo T
- Start date
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If I read your post correctly, your touch hole is below the lock's pan.
It would be easy to file or hone carefully with a dremel tool the pan's base making it deep enouph to bring the T\H into the prime shooting spot.
I have done this myself a couple of times and it works well and is a fairly easy fix.
It would be easy to file or hone carefully with a dremel tool the pan's base making it deep enouph to bring the T\H into the prime shooting spot.
I have done this myself a couple of times and it works well and is a fairly easy fix.
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HI,
Have you installed the tang screw and trigger plate and tightened down the screw? Finish probably swelled the wood. Instead of blindly scraping away wood and finish, put inletting black or smoke the tang and underside of the barrel and see where it is hanging up on the wood.
dave
Have you installed the tang screw and trigger plate and tightened down the screw? Finish probably swelled the wood. Instead of blindly scraping away wood and finish, put inletting black or smoke the tang and underside of the barrel and see where it is hanging up on the wood.
dave
Pete G
76 Cal.
flehto said:
A couple of hundredths = .02
As long as the hole is above the bottom of the pan it will work.
Yes .02" is about right. But I am eyeballing it. So, call it @ 0.5 - 0.25 mm. I have a beeswax candle around here somewhere. I'll try that carbon black to see if I have high points as I am also having a similar issue with the trigger assembly.
If I understand correctly, 0.25 mm isn't an issue as far as the pistol going BANG when I finally get it finished?
If I understand correctly, 0.25 mm isn't an issue as far as the pistol going BANG when I finally get it finished?
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Hi Bo,
The blackening is important because it is very likely that the bottoms of the inlets are not the problems but the sides have swelled preventing the parts from fully sitting into the mortices. This is why I no longer try to make inlet parts really tight. I want them to go in with very easy finger pressure before I stain and finish the wood. Inevitably the staining and finish swell the wood and you have to scrape away at those really tight inlets and risk chipping out wood.
dave
The blackening is important because it is very likely that the bottoms of the inlets are not the problems but the sides have swelled preventing the parts from fully sitting into the mortices. This is why I no longer try to make inlet parts really tight. I want them to go in with very easy finger pressure before I stain and finish the wood. Inevitably the staining and finish swell the wood and you have to scrape away at those really tight inlets and risk chipping out wood.
dave
IMO, if the touch hole is only a couple of hundredths (.02) of an inch off, it is nothing to worry about when it comes to shooting the gun.
Yes, from a "craftsmanship" point of view it leaves a bit to be desired but try not to worry about it.
This is one of the reasons I always recommend building a Flintlock to new builders rather than suggesting a Percussion gun.
Percussion guns require the hammer, nipple, drum and lockplate interfaces to be accurately made and located.
A Flintlock will work if the vent and pan are just close to being right.
Yes, from a "craftsmanship" point of view it leaves a bit to be desired but try not to worry about it.
This is one of the reasons I always recommend building a Flintlock to new builders rather than suggesting a Percussion gun.
Percussion guns require the hammer, nipple, drum and lockplate interfaces to be accurately made and located.
A Flintlock will work if the vent and pan are just close to being right.
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