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Finished my Traditions Kentucky rifle kit

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kyron4

50 Cal.
Joined
Dec 25, 2021
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*I also posted this in the flintlock forum, so I hope it's okay to also post it here since people on both forums helped along the way.*

Here's my recently finished Traditions Kentucky rifle; this is my first kit build and my first flintlock. It was a fun project and I'm happy with the final results. I wasn't going for the artistic look with engraving and inlays, but wanted more of a "poor boy" look ; that every day working rifle of the poor settler or trapper. All the brass was darkened with cold blue and the barrel was browned with LMF browning solution . The stock was finished with a couple coats of BC Walnut stain and topped with a couple coats of hand rubbed Minwax Antique Oil finish , which gave me that satin low sheen look I was going for. The faux color hardening on the lock was removed and blued to a dark black color.
I ditched the brass spacer and used a six inch section of 1/2" aluminum tubing along with the two pins to join the stocks. Drilled out the ramrod hole slightly on both pieces and pressed in the tube . Also plugged and redrilled for the two pins to get a better fit and alignment. Used some Woodtite glue to hold together for a very solid once piece stock. I plugged and redrilled the nose cap holes to line up with the threaded holes in the barrel and got a perfect fit.

If I had any complaints about the kit it would be ,
1. the screws are made of butter. Seriously these have to be the softest screws I've ever worked with, so care must be taken not to strip threads or damage the slot.
2. the stock being beech was difficult to stain and had a horrible grain pattern. I get that it's a bottom tier kit but that wood was a challenge to get close to the look I wanted.

On the range , after some trail and error, I got it firing 100% with 2f in the pan and barrel. 50 gr. of Goex with a PRB produced one ragged hole at 25 yds. and about 2" at 50 yds. Given the crude sight and my pathetic eyesight, more than impressed. It did hit about 4 1/2" high at 50, so I will be fabricating a new taller front blade.

In all I'm quite pleased and want to thank everyone who offer advice and information along the way. In my lifetime I have shot belt feed machine guns, sub guns, 50 cal BMG and cannon size revolvers and nothing has compared to the rush of firing that flintlock. It was a most unique experience.

Here's a picture, please excuse the poor photo quality with my potato camera, it does look better than the picture .
GEDC1439-2.JPG
 
Nice job. Before messing with the sights, you want to find the right load first. If it is a .50 cal, starting at 50 grains is good. I sight in at 25 yards. Shoot 3-5 shot groups. Increase by 5 grains per group and see what load gives you the tightest group at the highest point of impact. My guess is you will find that to be in the 65-70 grain 2f range. I have found sighting in my rifles at 25 yards will give me pretty much the same POI at 50 yards and then it drops at 100. Once you have your load, then you can adjust your sights. Usually the front sights are tall and need to be filed down to bring the shots up on target.
 
Nice job. Before messing with the sights, you want to find the right load first. If it is a .50 cal, starting at 50 grains is good. I sight in at 25 yards. Shoot 3-5 shot groups. Increase by 5 grains per group and see what load gives you the tightest group at the highest point of impact. My guess is you will find that to be in the 65-70 grain 2f range. I have found sighting in my rifles at 25 yards will give me pretty much the same POI at 50 yards and then it drops at 100. Once you have your load, then you can adjust your sights. Usually the front sights are tall and need to be filed down to bring the shots up on target.

Yes, the new front blade will be made taller than needed to be able to file down once a load is dialed in.
 
Looks VERY well done. Have you been able to shoot it yet?

Yes and I love it ! I thought the crescent butt would cause some discomfort, but that didn't cause much issue. It was the stock wacking my big Cherokee check bone that caught me off guard.

From my post:
On the range , after some trail and error, I got it firing 100% with 2f in the pan and barrel. 50 gr. of Goex with a PRB produced one ragged hole at 25 yds. and about 2" at 50 yds. Given the crude sight and my pathetic eyesight, more than impressed. It did hit about 4 1/2" high at 50, so I will be fabricating a new taller front blade.
 
Last edited:
*I also posted this in the flintlock forum, so I hope it's okay to also post it here since people on both forums helped along the way.*

Here's my recently finished Traditions Kentucky rifle; this is my first kit build and my first flintlock. It was a fun project and I'm happy with the final results. I wasn't going for the artistic look with engraving and inlays, but wanted more of a "poor boy" look ; that every day working rifle of the poor settler or trapper. All the brass was darkened with cold blue and the barrel was browned with LMF browning solution . The stock was finished with a couple coats of BC Walnut stain and topped with a couple coats of hand rubbed Minwax Antique Oil finish , which gave me that satin low sheen look I was going for. The faux color hardening on the lock was removed and blued to a dark black color.
I ditched the brass spacer and used a six inch section of 1/2" aluminum tubing along with the two pins to join the stocks. Drilled out the ramrod hole slightly on both pieces and pressed in the tube . Also plugged and redrilled for the two pins to get a better fit and alignment. Used some Woodtite glue to hold together for a very solid once piece stock. I plugged and redrilled the nose cap holes to line up with the threaded holes in the barrel and got a perfect fit.

If I had any complaints about the kit it would be ,
1. the screws are made of butter. Seriously these have to be the softest screws I've ever worked with, so care must be taken not to strip threads or damage the slot.
2. the stock being beech was difficult to stain and had a horrible grain pattern. I get that it's a bottom tier kit but that wood was a challenge to get close to the look I wanted.

On the range , after some trail and error, I got it firing 100% with 2f in the pan and barrel. 50 gr. of Goex with a PRB produced one ragged hole at 25 yds. and about 2" at 50 yds. Given the crude sight and my pathetic eyesight, more than impressed. It did hit about 4 1/2" high at 50, so I will be fabricating a new taller front blade.

In all I'm quite pleased and want to thank everyone who offer advice and information along the way. In my lifetime I have shot belt feed machine guns, sub guns, 50 cal BMG and cannon size revolvers and nothing has compared to the rush of firing that flintlock. It was a most unique experience.

Here's a picture, please excuse the poor photo quality with my potato camera, it does look better than the picture .
View attachment 138207
Tidy gun alright
 
*I also posted this in the flintlock forum, so I hope it's okay to also post it here since people on both forums helped along the way.*

Here's my recently finished Traditions Kentucky rifle; this is my first kit build and my first flintlock. It was a fun project and I'm happy with the final results. I wasn't going for the artistic look with engraving and inlays, but wanted more of a "poor boy" look ; that every day working rifle of the poor settler or trapper. All the brass was darkened with cold blue and the barrel was browned with LMF browning solution . The stock was finished with a couple coats of BC Walnut stain and topped with a couple coats of hand rubbed Minwax Antique Oil finish , which gave me that satin low sheen look I was going for. The faux color hardening on the lock was removed and blued to a dark black color.
I ditched the brass spacer and used a six inch section of 1/2" aluminum tubing along with the two pins to join the stocks. Drilled out the ramrod hole slightly on both pieces and pressed in the tube . Also plugged and redrilled for the two pins to get a better fit and alignment. Used some Woodtite glue to hold together for a very solid once piece stock. I plugged and redrilled the nose cap holes to line up with the threaded holes in the barrel and got a perfect fit.

If I had any complaints about the kit it would be ,
1. the screws are made of butter. Seriously these have to be the softest screws I've ever worked with, so care must be taken not to strip threads or damage the slot.
2. the stock being beech was difficult to stain and had a horrible grain pattern. I get that it's a bottom tier kit but that wood was a challenge to get close to the look I wanted.

On the range , after some trail and error, I got it firing 100% with 2f in the pan and barrel. 50 gr. of Goex with a PRB produced one ragged hole at 25 yds. and about 2" at 50 yds. Given the crude sight and my pathetic eyesight, more than impressed. It did hit about 4 1/2" high at 50, so I will be fabricating a new taller front blade.

In all I'm quite pleased and want to thank everyone who offer advice and information along the way. In my lifetime I have shot belt feed machine guns, sub guns, 50 cal BMG and cannon size revolvers and nothing has compared to the rush of firing that flintlock. It was a most unique experience.

Here's a picture, please excuse the poor photo quality with my potato camera, it does look better than the picture .
View attachment 138207
Good job! I've built two Traditions kits so far and the beach wood is tough to get right. I have my third Traditions kit sitting under my couch waiting for cooler weather to build. It is a KY rifle kit in percussion but I'm converting it to a flintlock that one of the members here helped me with.
 
That’s a great looking build. Lots of posts have been made here about how to hide or eliminate that brass spacer in the stock. Looks like you really nailed it!
 
That's a good looking rifle Sir! Curious as to how you removed the case hardening color though - file? sandpaper? chemical strip?

The faux color hardening on the lock was removed and blued to a dark black color.
 
That's a good looking rifle Sir! Curious as to how you removed the case hardening color though - file? sandpaper? chemical strip?

The faux color hardening on the lock was removed and blued to a dark black color.
I used a fine grit blaster, but it's fairly easy to remove with a vinegar soak and green scratch pad.
 
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