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Finally got to burn some powder in my 1851 navy
- Thread starter Ballshooter
- Start date
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What mods did you do to the hammer, we would like to know..."Fifty-four rounds and not a single cap jam ..."
Factory nipples? Slixshots? Modified hammer nose? Remington No. 10s? Holding mouth just right and wearing polka-dot shorts on a Tuesday?
I gots ta know ...
Ballshooter
45 Cal.
Nothing really smoothed up the face and did an action cover but that was afterwards.
QUESTION:
An action job on a blackpowder revolver typically involves improving the performance of the firearm’s action. It can include various tasks such as smoothing the trigger pull, reducing the hammer fall, and enhancing the overall reliability of the revolver.
I would think the goal is to make the revolver more responsive, accurate, and enjoyable to shoot.
I have found that performing an action job on a firearm requires expertise and experience (have a friend that does action jobs that are not to my liking, I don't use him for this service). I read it is recommended to consult a professional gunsmith who specializes in revolvers for this type of work.
What are your thoughts on what needs to ge done?
An action job on a blackpowder revolver typically involves improving the performance of the firearm’s action. It can include various tasks such as smoothing the trigger pull, reducing the hammer fall, and enhancing the overall reliability of the revolver.
I would think the goal is to make the revolver more responsive, accurate, and enjoyable to shoot.
I have found that performing an action job on a firearm requires expertise and experience (have a friend that does action jobs that are not to my liking, I don't use him for this service). I read it is recommended to consult a professional gunsmith who specializes in revolvers for this type of work.
What are your thoughts on what needs to ge done?
Thank you Mike,
What would you do ... (I'm not a gunsmith or never claimed to be)?
Buck
What is an "action cover" Ba;;shooter?
Well, unlike most places that offer tuning along with their gunsmithing, I don't give a "menu" to choose from. I'd rather focus on sending back a revolver that will run from now on . . . rather than have someone that may pick 2 or 3 or 4 items and still not have a "perfect" revolver. I don't want to see the same revolver, I'd rather work on your NEXT revolver!!
Therefore, I basically offer 2 services. The "Rented Mule" which is tuning the action and retaining the flat springs (usually folks with original Colts and occasionally seeing range time). The other service, "Outlaw Mule", is a conversion from flat springs to coil/ coil torsion springs including a coil and pushrod hand spring ( Ruger style) but retaining the flat main ( like Freedom Arms). Both services include a bolt block, an action stop, action shield, arbor correction*, cap post* (*open-top platforms). These services include parts correction, polishing, dressing, fitting, heat treating, timing correction.
Add-ons can be hammer shims, trigger stops (inside frame), interference pins, gas groove.
"Unmentionable" conversions get a wide hammer roll (Bearing), facing of the recoil shield ( for the conversion ring). So, a lot of stuff is done with either service but it all works best as a package rather than stand alone "Ala carte" that the average customer may not even know about or understand the need for.
That's what I'd do . . .
Mike
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Yeah, I keep running into the same thing with my friends that tell me to just do enough to make it work! I tell them if I can't do what needs doing to make it work right I ain't doing it at all !Well, unlike most places that offer tuning along with their gunsmithing, I don't give a "menu" to choose from. I'd rather focus on sending back a revolver that will run from now on . . . rather than have someone that may pick 2 or 3 or 4 items and still not have a "perfect" revolver. I don't want to see the same revolver, I'd rather work on your NEXT revolver!!
Therefore, I basically offer 2 services. The "Rented Mule" which is tuning the action and retaining the flat springs (usually folks with original Colts and occasionally seeing range time). The other service, "Outlaw Mule", is a conversion from flat springs to coil/ coil torsion springs including a coil and pushrod hand spring ( Ruger style) but retaining the flat main ( like Freedom Arms). Both services include a bolt block, an action stop, action shield, arbor correction*, cap post* (*open-top platforms). These services include parts correction, polishing, dressing, fitting, heat treating, timing correction.
Add-ons can be hammer shims, trigger stops (inside frame), interference pins, gas groove.
"Unmentionable" conversions get a wide hammer roll (Bearing), facing of the recoil shield ( for the conversion ring). So, a lot of stuff is done with either service but it all works best as a package rather than stand alone "Ala carte" that the average customer may not even know about or understand the need for.
That's what I'd do . . .
Mike
I'm just finishing up a 44 Stevens rifle for a friend that needed relining and I told him I would do it for my cost as I'm not in the gun repair business so he says just do enough so I can shoot it. Well it needed new link pins, firing pin. firing pin retaining screw and extractor all made from bar stock and I'm thinking why do you open your yap dummy! The trouble with this hobby is one keeps gaining "friends" once they figure out they can talk you into free work !
Yep. One should not work for friends or family. Successful Self-employed have NO Friends, only good clients.
Someone messaged me today and asked about a bolt block and an action stop. I told them I'd post a couple of pics here.
The bolt block lays beside the bolt and restricts lateral movement but allows vertical movement so the bolt can do its job- locking and unlocking the cylinder. Its presence also protects the cylinder notches by not allowing throw-by (which destroys notches!). It's what allows speed to be a characteristic of your revolver.
In conjunction with the bolt block, the action stop is the best protection against damage for the hand, ratchet and extra insurance for the cylinder notches. It prohibits movement of the hammer after full cock is reached. That keeps the hand from trying to turn a locked cylinder.
The block can be seen in this pic. It is directly in front of the trigger, laying full length beside the bolt.
The action stop is mounted in the trigger guard directly under the hammer. When the main spring contacts the stop, all action movement is done !!
Mike
The bolt block lays beside the bolt and restricts lateral movement but allows vertical movement so the bolt can do its job- locking and unlocking the cylinder. Its presence also protects the cylinder notches by not allowing throw-by (which destroys notches!). It's what allows speed to be a characteristic of your revolver.
In conjunction with the bolt block, the action stop is the best protection against damage for the hand, ratchet and extra insurance for the cylinder notches. It prohibits movement of the hammer after full cock is reached. That keeps the hand from trying to turn a locked cylinder.
The block can be seen in this pic. It is directly in front of the trigger, laying full length beside the bolt.
The action stop is mounted in the trigger guard directly under the hammer. When the main spring contacts the stop, all action movement is done !!
Mike
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Mike's prices are very fair, the only thing he doesn't do is checking the bores on the cylinder, doesn't have those cutting dies needed.
Now I have to run someone down (gunsmith) that provides this service on the cylinder. My Colt Navy will be at Mike's house tomorrow (4 to 6 weeks till his work is done). I would like to see before and after pictures of what he's doing).
Buck
