Finally got my gun!

[Oregononeshot]

I picked up a shiny new GPR .54 percussion today, finally! During assembly I noticed it looks like I have to shave the slots where the wedge pins go. I couldn't get them in with just thumb pressure and I didn't want to tap them with a hammer. Shouldn't those fit from the factory? Also the hammer doesn't fall when I pull the trigger? It will fall with a little pressure from my finger when the trigger is pulled, but without it nothing happens when pulled. I know there is allot of grease from the factory, would that be holding it up? I plan to clean it as soon as I read how to!

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Interesting. I'd give it a good clean and check to see if the trigger works then. Put a bit of leather or something on the nipple so it doesn't mushroom and check.

As for the wedges, if they go in to easy they might fall out during shooting or when fighting injun or bar.

You might try to swap the pins about, turn them around etc. to see if they'll fit easier, then remember which way for later.

 

[yonderin]

On my TC's they go in better one side up than the other.

 

[Walkingeagle]

I swapped my GPR wedges for TC wedges, they are longer with a tapered end. This allowed me to make slight bends to get the pressure I desired.
Regarding the lock, you are getting interference from the wood within the inletting. Make sure you have not overtightened the lock bolt first, then may have to follow up with some slight wood material removal. If that is the case, put lipstick on the back of the lock then insert and remove. The transfer will indicate where material has to be removed.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Robertj,
I would not touch the escutcheon slots. Make sure the keys will not fit in any position you try. If all is correct, the barrel needs to be tight against the stock. If the stock is warped it can make the barrel ride high making the key not go through. Try the keys without the barrel to really see if they fit. If they don't fit without the barrel, trim the key not the escutcheon.
Making sure they press in firm so they will not fall out when using the gun.
Trigger sounds like it is not moving the sear up far enough to clear the tumbler full cock notch, or wood is rubbing on lock parts. Also look for loose particles in the lock/trigger inlet.
Flintlocklar :wink:

 

[Oregononeshot]

I messed with the wedge pins and got the longer one in the rear per the owners manual. They like a certain side up also. They both push in until they stop but they are sticking out about 1/8 inch still. Would it be wrong to tap (force) them in with a small hammer? The manual says to file the escutcheon, not the wedge so I'll do that if I can't coax them with a small hammer. The lock is exactly how it came from the factory, I haven't touched anything. After a little working back and forth it's operating like normal. It's not hitting the wood anywhere I can tell. Here is a dumb question. I can't find in the instructions or online how to remove the lock? Which screw or screws do I need to remove to get that lock out?

 

[Walkingeagle]

There is one bolt to remove the lock, it feeds through directly from the opposite side of the stock. You will have to remove the barrell first to remove the lock. Once the barrell and lock bolt are removed, grab the hammer and just slightly wiggle while pulling outward.

 

[Walkingeagle]

When you reinstall the lock, make sure the triggers are positioned correctly or they will interfere.

 

[Oregononeshot]

Thanks. I got the lock out very carefully. Tomorrow I'll clean it and lightly oil the parts. Turns out the wedges fit exactly like they are supposed to. I watched a video lyman put out where it said you need to tap the wedges the last bit in. Even showed how to adjust the tang to help the barrel fit better

 

[Heelerau]

Congratulations on your new rifle, now the fun begins figuring out what she will shoot best with. Good luck and lot of fun

cheers

Heelerau

 

[Alaskan Woodsman]

Robert, hows your new GPR look? Is the stock walnut? Who'd you buy it from? Thanks! Glen

 

[Oregononeshot]

It's not really shiny, but it's very nice! Got the normal black accessories. I don't know what wood the stock is, whatever they are made of lol. I bought it online from muzzleloaders.com, but was able to pick it up directly because there warehouse is only 45 minutes away! Hopefully I can get it this weekend and shoot it

 

[Rifleman1776]

There is one bolt to remove the lock, it feeds through directly from the opposite side of the stock. You will have to remove the barrell first to remove the lock. Once the barrell and lock bolt are removed, grab the hammer and just slightly wiggle while pulling outward.

It can help to partially back out the lock screw then gently tap the bolt head to drive out the lock plate. Once the lock is out carefully examine the inside of the inlet and look for parts of the wood that might be a little shiny. A small flashlight can help here. If you see shiny spots that is an indication the moving parts are rubbing against the wood. A little scraping and wood removal can often do wonders for lock performance. For that little gun surgery I made a scraper from an old small screwdriver. With a propane torch I heated the tip then pounded it to a 90 degree end. While still hot quench in water then grind a sharp edge with bevel on the opposite of your scraping movement. Voila, you now have a new gunsmithing tool at little to no cost.