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Filing poured pewter

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aprayinbear

36 Cal.
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I've been experimenting with pouring bolsters and have had pretty good results, but the results are not so good on my files. They cake with the soft metal in an instant and are really hard to clean.

Any suggestions on how to use the files. I may just use rolled up pieces of sanding belts in the future, but I don't think I'll get the same control I get with the files.

Helllllp!? :hmm:
 
Get some chalk - either the kids stuff or better welder's - and fill the teeth with the chalk before using. Keep the teeth filled as needed
 
yep, what LaBonte said! :thumbsup:
I'm doing the same thing, but my problem is I can't get the pewter to stick to the antler or the blade...how are you getting yours to stick?
 
Whenever you are filing any soft metal- brass, copper, aluminum, pewter-- fill your file with chalk. Its available at your local hardware store. Chalk it well. it keeps the filings from sticking in the teeth, and makes it much easier to clean the file with your FILE CARD. Then chalk it again before doing more filing.

Files come in various lengths, and the secret is to learn how to use the entire length of the file, so you wear the teeth evenly, and get the full use of the file. When draw filing, move the file over one file width with each stroke. Clean when you run out of "file". :rotf: :grin: :thumbsup:

By moving to a new spot on the file, you avoid scratching the smooth surface you just made, with any filings that got hung up in the teeth of the file you just used on the metal. YOu will be draw filing mostly when cleaning up barrel flats. Moving the file involves nothing more than feeding the file, right or left, as is your preference, and using the file from one end of the file to the other, like an old fashioned typewriter carriage. Stroke the file in one direction, ONLY.
 
You really don't get it to stick. You under-cut, groove, and, or, drill holes for the pewter to fill and make a mechanical grab. You have to use a lot more pewter than the finished product to allow it to fill in without voids and not shrink too much, too fast. Whenever possible, it helps to pre-heat any metal it will contact.
 
Like Wick says, you have to drill or undercut your material to have it stay put.
CVA2.jpg
This was on the CVA pistol that I poured nose and buttcaps on. I used a 4 in 1 rasp to do the rough shaping (doesn't clog as much and takes the pewter down fast), then filed as Paul suggests, then wet/dry sandpaper and finally 0000 steel wool to put a nice luster on it. Good luck. Emery
 
Like has been said use chalk. What I do if any does get stuck even with the chalk. I take piece of brass stock and push it across the file teeth from the side going with the angle of the teeth. Like using a file card. The brass is soft enough to conform the teeth but hard enough to push the pewter out. I have even used a piece of hard wood. Clean the file often to keep it from getting to impacted.
 
:thumbsup:

Simple chalk... wow that's great. Many thanks (and my files thank you!) Ditto on making the pewter stay put. Like others have said I drill or file small holes to get the metal to hold. Works well.

Thanks Again :bow:
 
Do you have a file card? It's a wire brush with extra short bristles that you drag across the file at the same angle as the teeth. It really cleans a choked file but the chalk trick really helps.
 
I have better luck with sandpaper wrapped around my file to take a lot of material off. I also use #150 abrasive cloth in the "shoe shine" method on knife bolsters. And I like the finished look of pewter when finished with a finer grit of paper.

GW
 
Where do you guys get your pewter? I see that TOTW has the pellets. Is there a better source? I've been wanting to pour some knife bolsters since I haven't tried that yet.
 
NJStricker said:
Where do you guys get your pewter? I see that TOTW has the pellets. Is there a better source? I've been wanting to pour some knife bolsters since I haven't tried that yet.
Rotometals - who advertise on this site http://www.rotometals.com/Pewter-Alloys-s/23.htm

I've been using the RotoNickel because its harder but the most "PC" is R-92

Locally you can also get lead free silver bearing plumber's solder which is basically pewter. It's much more expensive but gives you a way to try it out without a large outlay of cash.

When the pewter gets stubborn and won't clean out with a file card use a propane torch - it will soften it and you can use the card to get it out. This works best on larger files that won't heat enough to lose their temper.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I get mine from Three Feathers Pewter in Millersburg, Ohio-fine shawnee pewter craftsman. Paid $14 a pound for little scrap sheets and pieces. I don't know about hardness, but this stuff you can easily bend with your fingers. You can probably google up his site... :thumbsup:
 
I actually coated my wood with grafitte from a pencil to get it to flow better. I had enough undercuts to get it to stay in place.
 
I used 50/50 solder on mine with little wheel weight lead and it did not get dark at all after time. Looks just like pewter.
 
I would say maybe 50/50. Maybe more solder. I checked it again after this post. It still looks like pewter, not dulling. Seems like lead will get dull really quick in a leather holder and the knife has been sheathed since I made it. The pics are on here if you want to take a look at it.
 
wayne1967 said:
I actually coated my wood with grafitte from a pencil to get it to flow better. I had enough undercuts to get it to stay in place.
Yep, me too. If you look at my picture above, you can see where I rubbed the pencil to make the pewter flow better.
 
That's good to know. I'm down in Delaware, but occasionally run up to Killbuck which isn't that far away from Millersburg. Might have to make a run up there, then hop over to Keim Lumber in Charm to check out their wood stock.
 
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