It’s usually equally volumes powder to shot. So yeah, it’s the volume of shot that will fit into a 110 grain volume, which is 1 3/4 oz.There is 437.5 grains in one ounce.
Barely 1/4 ounce of shot. Unless y'all are talking volumetric powder measurement applied to shot.
Your not going to use that dodgy 9g are you...the ticking time bomb and....I'm currently in the process of moving. In 3 weeks or so I plan on doing a test I've wanted to do for some time. I want to shoot my muzzleloading shotguns over the chronograph to determine just how much different things effect velocity.
I plan to use a 12 gauge, and a 10 gauge (technically 9 gauge). I do not have a 20 to test. I will compare loads of 3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg. I also want to test different wadding. Here is what I have charted to test.
Powder granulation: Only variable being powder granulation
12ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)
10ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)
Wad comparison: All with the same standard load, only variable being the over powder wad
.050" card wads, likely test 1 through 6 over powder, both 12 and 10 gauge
1/8" felt wads, likely test 1 and 2, both 12 and 10 gauge
nitro cards, likely test 1 through 3, only have 12 gauge
plastic wads, likely BPI MM steel shot cup, and a lead wad like a Win. AA, only have 12 gauge
I don't have any wasp nest to try. Any other ideas for common wads?
I use something close to 4f. Its half way between 3&4. I set the measure to 3/4 the shot charge.
Yep, I'll even have my face right on the stock when I pull the trigger.
I don't think I have any 4Fg. If I did, I'd only want to do reduced loads. I doubt anyone uses it for anything except priming powder anyway. I do have some Swiss 1Fg, but I figured a test with all red can Goex would be more meaningful.
Penetration of one side of the can or both sides? Everyone always leaves out this bit of critical information?Tuna can test is to assure killing power. If the shot penetrates yer good to go. If not I may try 2f (last time out I had only 3f). 1F was certainly different in recoil both degree and type. I am more concerned with pattern. I recall Brownbear (RIP) used to swear by it in his shotguns up in AK and always wanted to try it. IT WORKS (in this gun anyway LOL)
I impart agree except for the rifle bit.Shotguns both old and modern use a fast burning gunpowder (see p81, Roberts). Certainly not Fg.
Fg is for accuracy in rifles .38 cal & larger.
Might suggest you look at some older books, written when some people used these guns as a normal- if out of date - firearm. Such as
The Kentucky Rifle, Capt John G. W. Dillin, 1924 (best), - The Muzzle-Loading Rifle . . . Then and Now, Walter M. Cline copywrite 1942 - The Muzzle-Loading Cap Lock Rifle Ned H, Roberts copywrite MXMXL.
Roberts is an actual rifle shooter, I would judge this the most useful of them, for a shooter.
All old books.
In my admittedly cantankerous opinion rather little has been learned since then about shooting actual side-lock muzzle-loading rifles and shot guns, with real black gunpowder. Rather a lot has been lost, as can be seen by looking at questions asked on sites like this one.
In all sincerity you may have a gun fit issue.Well I heard of FG used in a shot gun here for the first time years ago by one of our departed, BrownBear. He swore by it so I tried it (finally). Now I have yet to try FFG and the skychief load in my 20GA, I only reported excellent results with FG. I really don't care if it was meant for large caliber weapons, if it works best in my weapons I will use it. I do NOT miss the aching cheek bone, that I can say for sure.