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FFF or FFFF?

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I practice at the range with FFg but prime with FFFFg when hunting. Having said that, I hunted in a bad fog several days ago and had to dump my priming every 45 minutes to 1 hour because it was clumping up. I may try FFFg and see if it’s more resilient to high humidity.

-Jake
 
3Fg for both main charge and prime, unless in a musket. If in a musket, then 3Fg for blanks (gives a pop not a whooof as with 2Fg blanks), and 2Fg for prime and main charge in stuff .62 and larger when shooting live ammunition. :thumb:

LD
 
I've never had a problem with 4F even when hunting in the rain. 3F, IMHO, is just as good with any difference in speed too small for me to notice. All in all I prefer 4F prime. This neat little priming "horn" only works with 4F. Small, light and plain, it works better than the brass springy ones.
 
Based on the tests I did, 4F powder in a clean flintlock pan did not "suck water out of the air", or "turn to soup" after over 12 hours in a 100% humidity environment.

If the pan had fouling in it from a previous black powder flash, then the fouling collected the moisture out of the 100% humid air and caused the 4F powder to become wet. Once this happened, the 4F powder wouldn't ignite from the sparks from the frizzen.

This isn't unique to 4F powder. In a fouled pan, 3F and 2F will also become waterlogged.

The moral of the story is, make sure the pan on the flintlock is clean before charging it with powder.
 
I prefer to use one of the 3 gr. brass plunger priming device on a small home brew goat horn. 4 or 5 plunges puts the right amount of 4fg in the pan w/no sloppy spillage. A small bump of the hand on the gun stock ,primes the touch hole consistently w the 4fg. Never tried fffg in my priming device because the way I do it now , is so consistent. I might be too picky , but as is said , consistency promotes accuracy.....oldwood
 
I prime with whatever I use in the main charge, 2F or 3F. Using one granulation keeps things simple. I don't carry electronic timers with me, so I can't see any difference in the time of ignition. Also, I have used some guns that had less than perfect fitting of the pan cover, and 4F would be carried off in the wind, or fall out as I walked along.

Other's mileage may differ. Pletch is THE MAN, in matters of ignition time, and Zonie's experiments on black powder in 100% humidity speak for themselves - the burnt powder residue is the culprit.

Richard/Grumpa
 
It's interesting to me to figure out why a non-cleaned pan will draw moisture and foul the priming powder whereas a cleaned pan does not take on that moisture. I'm sure there is a lot more science behind this but I suppose all of my military training still rings through and that's to have a clean firearm all the time.
 
It's interesting to me to figure out why a non-cleaned pan will draw moisture and foul the priming powder whereas a cleaned pan does not take on that moisture. I'm sure there is a lot more science behind this but I suppose all of my military training still rings through and that's to have a clean firearm all the time.
Nothing strange at all sir. Black powder fouling is very hygroscopic.
It converts humidity or water vapour into liquid water of which unburnt black powder has no resistance to.
 
I habitually prime with 4F. I've carried my flintlocks in fog, mist and pouring rain and never had the 4F get wet. Zonie and Nate are correct. Once the gun is fired the pan, frizzen and pan cover must be wiped clean and dry or a humid day will definitely give you "pan soup".
 

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