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Ferguson Rifle Build

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Joined
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Quite some time ago I started measuring the progress on my several gun projects in "geological time". Life and work were really starting to cut into my 18 to 20 waking hours each day. Nonetheless, I finally progressed to that point on a new rifle where one starts to accelerate as the finish line begins to come into view. I purchased parts for this Ferguson from TRS several years ago now and then, very slowly, worked on one part or another as the spirit moved me....and the spirit didn't move me very often. Still, I was starting to make some headway when I ended up mentally "in irons" again ....and being set on a lee shore. For a long time I couldn't decide whether to finish the Ferguson as a military arm or add the engraving, carving, etc. and make it a civilian version. This was the first progress







 
When I purchased the Ferguson parts from the Rifle Shop several years ago, I also purchased a stock mostly to see the anatomy in 3D. As is usually the case (at least for me) with purchasing a roughed out stock, a lot of the "roughing" is in the wrong place. I thought I could save this one and, if not, I had intended to make one from scratch any way.

When I started the work again, I noted the poor grain run through the wrist. I consulted a friend (because I knew he wouldn't sugar coat his opinion). I sent him these pictures and asked what he thought about the wrist:





Basically he said to throw it away and start over. So, I got another piece of walnut, but as I was roughing it out, I thought I would give this stock just one more shot at saving it (more good practice !) I routed a groove under the trigger guard from the lock area down into the comb area and cut a straight grained piece of the new walnut to match the cut out. I installed it with Acraglass and then re-inlet the trigger plate. Since the insert is nearly the full height of the wrist, it is the equivalent of three or four dowels run through the wrist side by side. As a consequence, I have some high hopes for the stock not shearing off and hitting me in the snott locker when I touch this thing off. Here are some rather poor pictures of the repair, but you will get the idea.











 
Very, very nice. You always do such neat and clean work.

Not knowing a lot about these rifles, I'm hoping you will indulge a few questions.
How many turns does it take to open the breach fully for loading?
How does the handle coming down off the rear of the trigger guard effect hand placement, does it get in the way?
 
Brokennock,

Thanks. It takes only a single turn to completely lower the breach for loading and the handle is aft of where my hand grabs the wrist, so I don't even notice it with a comfortable shooting hold on the rifle.
 
Hi Dave,
Beautiful Ferguson fit for an officer! Much better made and finished than the original ordnance issued rifles. Those were hurried in production and the stocks are somewhat crude. I remember you posting your excellent fix for the wrist, which I copied on a rifle with the same problem last year. It worked fabulously. David, one little detail, barrel keys on British guns always have the heads on the left side of the stock when looking toward the muzzle. I don't think there was any practical reason for that, just tradition.
Beautiful gun.

dave
 
Brokennock,

Thanks. It takes only a single turn to completely lower the breach for loading and the handle is aft of where my hand grabs the wrist, so I don't even notice it with a comfortable shooting hold on the rifle.
Thank you.
Could you please show the rear sight in more detail? Is it a folding leaf?
 
Hi Brokennock,
It is a folding leaf sight. Below are some photos. On mine, I flattened the top of the leaf because I hated the sight picture of a notch in a rounded top. I've hit the scoring areas on a standard NMLRA 100 yard target at about 150 yards using the leaf and shooting off hand but no better than that even from a bench.

dave
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7w03Ix5.jpg
 
Dave Person.....Thanks for the reminder about the barrel keys. I can never remember which side they traditionally go in through. Also, since these pictures were taken, I shortened the ram rod per your information about interference with the bayonet when installed. And, since the ram rod was now shortened for installation of a bayonet....I just had to have a bayonet ! So, with the bayonet on the rifle now I have to be very careful in the house. My ceilings are only 8 foot and it is easy for me to poke holes in the plaster if I'm not paying attention :)
 
Hi Dave,
It is an AWESOME bayonet! If you ever want a scabbard for it, G. Gedney Godwin, the Sutlers of Mt. Misery, have a German hunting sword scabbard that fits. It just needs a little grinding of the brass slot at the top to fit the thickness of the Ferguson bayonet.

dave
 
Brokennock,

Thanks. It takes only a single turn to completely lower the breach for loading and the handle is aft of where my hand grabs the wrist, so I don't even notice it with a comfortable shooting hold on the rifle.
I have loved the Ferguson since it starred in Louis L'amour's book by the same name.
 
Friend's Rifle Shoppe Ferguson...bayonet took years to come in. Have a video of his first shots with it, but can't find it....
 

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Two awesome Fergusons. I just ventured into the Ferguson world with a Narragannsett Ferguson rifle. It's no where near as nice as these two. I've tried a .648 ball, which gave very good accuracy. I made up some .635 balls and will try them next. I notice that the .648 ball gives much more bearing surface in the bore than the .635, which I would say gives it better accuracy, but I'm still going to try it. I have noticed no gas leakage at the top of the threads, but am getting some leakage and lube melt at the bottom. I've been using 50/50 bees wax and crisco for the balls and thread lube. I've sent for pure tallow and am anxious to see how it does on the threads. I've been shooting flintlocks since the mid 70's and old habits are hard to break. I still want to load it in the order that I load a regular front stuffer and start out with my powder charge instead of placing the ball first.
 
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