Early T/C Hawken Breech

[Smokey84]

Can anyone help me understand what breech plug this is? I wanted to convert this percussion cap hawken to a flint but after all the reading I have done about breech plugs and snails, I come across this!

Do I just need a vent liner and a flint lock setup or am I totally wrong? I'm just kinda lost after seeing this breech.

Thanks for any help,
Chris

 

[SDSmlf]

Appears it could be a flint barrel with a drum mounted it. What size is the tapped hole? 1/4-28 is the thread for a TC flintlock liner.

 

[Smokey84]

Appears it could be a flint barrel with a drum mounted it. What size is the tapped hole? 1/4-28 is the thread for a TC flintlock liner.

1/4-28 is correct SDSmlf.

 

[SDSmlf]

1/4-28 is correct SDSmlf.

If the 1/4-28 hole location lines up with your TC lock pan position (believe it will), you should be good to go. Just need the vent liner.

 

[longcruise]

Did TC ever make a percussion ignition with a drum like that?

 

[bubba.50]

Did TC ever make a percussion ignition with a drum like that?

YES.TC did make a conversion kit for a short while to convert their flinchlock guns to percussion. It consisted of the parts shown above, a lock with cutout for the drum and thhe drum to screw in in place of the vent liner.

 

[bubba.50]

Can anyone help me understand what breech plug this is? I wanted to convert this percussion cap hawken to a flint but after all the reading I have done about breech plugs and snails, I come across this!

Do I just need a vent liner and a flint lock setup or am I totally wrong? I'm just kinda lost after seeing this breech.

Thanks for any help,
Chris

A TC flinch lock and vent liner should put you right in business.

 

[Greg Blackburn]

Looks like you have some rare items there. Do clean those up and keep those with the weapon. Good luck.

 

[Smokey84]

Thank you all for information and willingness to help. I really do appreciate it.

Should I go with a T/C flint lock if I can find one? I was just going to pick up a L&R RPL 03.

Here is a little more info on the muzzleloader. A very good friend gifted me this for my Birthday. It came out of Ohio so it was actually drilled and mounted with a scope. I live in Pa and our main season is flint. So I have to convert it back to flint and remove the scope to be able to use it, which was why he gave it to me. He wanted to see it used and cared for.

But here are some more pictures and thank you all again. Your help and knowledge is very much appreciated.

Chris

 

[Grimord]

The L&R replacement lock for a T/C is not a drop in conversion. You will have to hog out some of the lock mortise to allow for the leaf spring and tumbler. If you can find a T/C lock (ebay), try to get one with the new style cock as they are better for sparking.

 

[longcruise]

A very interesting and informative topic.

 

[Pete G]

The RPL is a much better lock than the original.

 

[Grimord]

The RPL is a much better lock than the original.

Yes I agree it is a better lock, but if you don't have the necessary skills to install the L&R lock, the OP might be better off with a T/C lock.

 

[bubba.50]

There is a TC flinch lock on gunbroker right now. Was at 26 bucks last night with about a week to go. That and a vent liner would put ya in business.

 

[Smokey84]

There is a TC flinch lock on gunbroker right now. Was at 26 bucks last night with about a week to go. That and a vent liner would put ya in business.

Thank you Bubba. I actually ordered a L&R and it will be here Monday with the vent liner and flints. I have some resources I can call upon if the install becomes alittle more than I think I can handle.

I really appreciate the thought tho. Thank you!

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have posted this before many times but you may or may not have to call in some help on the RPL lock conversion. I am a pretty good gun builder and found this conversion tested my ability to the limit. Nothing lined up or fit, lock bolt hole had to be relocated, barrel moved back, back of the breech plug had to be ground off and a ton of wood had to be removed from the lock mortise. I also had to sent the lock back to L&R twice for flaws, it came back flawed the last time I sent it off but I fixed it myself, I was tired of their shoddy work.

 

[Smokey84]

I have posted this before many times but you may or may not have to call in some help on the RPL lock conversion. I am a pretty good gun builder and found this conversion tested my ability to the limit. Nothing lined up or fit, lock bolt hole had to be relocated, barrel moved back, back of the breech plug had to be ground off and a ton of wood had to be removed from the lock mortise. I also had to sent the lock back to L&R twice for flaws, it came back flawed the last time I sent it off but I fixed it myself, I was tired of their shoddy work.

View attachment 43681

I will definitely keep that in mind. If it does get too complicated, I will just end up using the TC lock setup.

What flaws should I look for on the new lock?

Thanks for the picture too. I'll keep everyone that's interested updated.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I bought my first lock from Tip Curtis, it arrived new in the pack with a casting flaw in the nose that was to big to file out, I sent the lock back to L&R, they sent me a new lock.

The new lock they sent me didn't have the square shaft on the tumbler ground deeply enough and the hammer only grazed the corner of the cock stop on the lock plate. I sent this lock back.

They ground the tumbler correctly BUT, they ground a burr on the shaft and using some kind of press forced the tumbler back through the lock plate burr and all. The tumbler wouldn't even rotate. They sent the lock back to me that way, QC at its worse.

I knocked out the tumbler, filed off the burr, polished everything and reassembled the lock, it worked just fine. I sold the gun to a guy who collects guns but will never shoot this one, he just wanted a flintlock in his collection, he is not a BP guy. I sold the gun for $20 less than I had in the parts, it actually came out really nice. I had built the gun from a random assortment TC parts including a NOS pristine TC flint barrel.

 

[Smokey84]

I bought my first lock from Tip Curtis, it arrived new in the pack with a casting flaw in the nose that was to big to file out, I sent the lock back to L&R, they sent me a new lock.

The new lock they sent me didn't have the square shaft on the tumbler ground deeply enough and the hammer only grazed the corner of the cock stop on the lock plate. I sent this lock back.

They ground the tumbler correctly BUT, they ground a burr on the shaft and using some kind of press forced the tumbler back through the lock plate burr and all. The tumbler wouldn't even rotate. They sent the lock back to me that way, QC at its worse.

I knocked out the tumbler, filed off the burr, polished everything and reassembled the lock, it worked just fine. I sold the gun to a guy who collects guns but will never shoot this one, he just wanted a flintlock in his collection, he is not a BP guy. I sold the gun for $20 less than I had in the parts, it actually came out really nice. I had built the gun from a random assortment TC parts including a NOS pristine TC flint barrel.

View attachment 43683View attachment 43684

Fingers crossed mine goes a little easier!

Can't argue with the end result! Well done Sir.

 

[MC One Shot]

I was going to suggest putting a T/C lock in the rifle as the rifle would have more value with all original parts. Then there is a historical side of this in the rebirth of muzzleloading. The parts are rare as it is and to have conversion parts for both is very unit indeed. I have only seen one or two and that was decades ago. It would also allow yourself and or future owners to change it back to percussion. When desired. This cannot be done if you have to remortise for a non T/C lock. Just a thought.