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Dutch Schultz' Accuracy Method

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Well, I had to go back and read my own post to figure out how you got that out of it but I see it. So I'm not sure if your post is a joke or if you are taking a swipe at my writing skills or maybe you actually thought 219 shooters all registered and all shot BB without wiping in that match.
LOL, Ever do the "whisper a secret" in a circle routine. LOL, what is written and what is read, what is repeated, often not the same intent or understanding.
I was thinking something in between....
 
I got a few little pointers out of it, but for the most part it is just consistency and changing one variable at a time. I do a lot of handloading for HP rifles and this is the very basic concept of handloading. If you are a beginner to the muzzleloader world and do not handload you would probably get more out of it. The dry lube concept is interesting and I use it, but nothing secret about it.
 
I'm just using the method to find "the load" for this gun. Once I reach the point where I finally do(powder charge, ball size, patch material and lube) I'll be done, i i doubt i ever change ANYTHING. Or, shoot from a bench ever again. At that point so long as i am absolutely consistent in loading and cleaning procedures, I will KNOW misses and bad groups are "on me" and the gun ain't to blame.
Ben Have you eliminated flyers yet?
Dutch
 
I bought half a yard of 100% cotton preshrunk white denim and washed/dried it. I cut it in half, cut 6 strips and soaked half in 5:1 Ballistol and hater and the other half in 6:1. They're currently laid flat, drying. I'm a little concerned though, they "feel" a tad thicker now than in the store. The compressed thickness of what I'm currently using(if I'm reading the micrometer right, which I may not be) is .009. This new stuff is .010, just one dash on the dial thicker. I just bought that one piece, and I hope it's not TOO thick to load. They didnt have any denim that measured .0095.
You didn't complete the experiment. The overwhelming best formula was in the 7 to one range.
I spell out the entire range of options and you picked on just two,

It's like insisting your new house has only one door and then complains that It's hard to get out of in a hurry.
Dutch
 
I got a few little pointers out of it, but for the most part it is just consistency and changing one variable at a time. I do a lot of handloading for HP rifles and this is the very basic concept of handloading. If you are a beginner to the muzzleloader world and do not handload you would probably get more out of it. The dry lube concept is interesting and I use it, but nothing secret about it.
Consistency is not all it is. If you are consistently doing it wrong you will consistently have bad groups.

I think I was expecting people wouldn't just cherry pick the parts that were easy for them and skip the important parts and make a judgement.


I will continue selling in hopes of that one out of ten buyers will seriously examine the system.
Dutch
 
I used 5:1 and 6:1 because that patching was thicker and I figured itd need to be slipprier to load easy. I went shooting today til the rain chased me away. I couldn't load the thick denim
I also had 2 other thicknesses of denim that I treated 7:1. One shot like manure with .490 balls, one shot GREAT with .495 balls. No target pics due to a downpour, but it was sub 2".

My 2 best groups since I started the method have both been a tad smaller than 2". One with .490 balls and thicker patch, one with .495 balls and thinner patch. This is after 3 trips to the fabric store with the micrometer.im gonna try paper shims with both these 2 combos and see who wins.

You didn't complete the experiment. The overwhelming best formula was in the 7 to one range.
I spell out the entire range of options and you picked on just two,

It's like insisting your new house has only one door and then complains that It's hard to get out of in a hurry.
Dutch
 
Will do. So far I've run 7 different patch materials with different compressed thicknesses. 2 stand out, but with different ball sizes. Next trip I'll add paper shims to each. I think I'm done trying DIFFERENT fabrics.

I've been shooting 80gr 2f Swiss exclusively. I havent tweaked powder charge. I tried 70, 75, 80, 85, and 90gr and 80gr shot best so I stuck with it. Who knows, maybe 78gr shoots better than 80? More range time needed.

And I still need to buy a scale to individually weigh the balls. That's coming.

And I still am waiting to find the combo with the best groupings before I adjust the sights. The front sight needs some filing for sure.
 
Not exactly in line with the current topic but since it is at a load junction could someone Please tell me in working up a load do you go let’s say 5 grains at a time up or down or how much?
Also is Dutch’s book available only as a ebook or can I get a printed one?
Thanks so Much!
 
That's what I did. To start, take the caliber of the gun, let's say .50 cal. 1 1/2x .50 is .75, so start with 75 grains. .50 cal and up, most recommend 2f powder, below .45 cal, 3f powder. .45-.50 use what shoots best.

But then I hear guys say, for example, "I shoot 73gr" or 68gr, etc. So, what do I know!

Not exactly in line with the current topic but since it is at a load junction could someone Please tell me in working up a load do you go let’s say 5 grains at a time up or down or how much?
Also is Dutch’s book available only as a ebook or can I get a printed one?
Thanks so Much!
 
Recently purchased a copy of Dutch's material. Full of good info. Guess it may depend on what venue of BP one shoots on how much they may gain by it. Being a ML Bench shooter, shooting at a 10 ring that is 1 7/8" and and the X ring 1" at 100yds is easier said than done. May sound easy to some to put 5 shots in that 10 ring with IS- Challenging is the word but enjoyable.
bob
 
Consistency is not all it is. If you are consistently doing it wrong you will consistently have bad groups.

I think I was expecting people wouldn't just cherry pick the parts that were easy for them and skip the important parts and make a judgement.


I will continue selling in hopes of that one out of ten buyers will seriously examine the system.
Dutch
How do I get your system for greater accuracy? [email protected]
 
2 grains difference wont show up with black powder. Smokeless, yes. But not black ;)

Actually it will. I've done quite a bit of accuracy testing for my competition guns and 2g does make a difference. Not a huge one, but still there. Competition is all about controlling variables as much as possible and that's why Dutch's book is great for those not familiar with the process in regards to PRB.
 
You owe it to yourself to give Dutch's system a try. I don't use it with all my BP guns, but if I'm trying to wring the best accuracy out of one, I turn to Dutch's work.

Bare in mind, this is not a quick fix method. It does take time and effort. If you are just plinking, then it's probably not for you. If, on the other hand, you want to get the most accuracy from your rifle for hunting or competition, then this is a great place to start.

Hoppe's dampened patches with an occasional wipe are fine for when the grandkids are popping water bottles with my Frontier .32. If I'm working up a load for deer hunting, I want to KNOW where it's going to hit, so I turn to the system. A side advantage to the dry patch system is that you can carry a few extra patched balls in a loading block without worrying about them picking up a bunch of crud as a greased patch would do.

I'm still fiddling with my .45 Pedersoli Kentucky, but as of now 6:1 water/Ballistol on denim (jeans) looks to be the winner at this point. I haven't had much range time with it yet though, so we shall see. Adjusting to a single, non-set trigger is part of the challenge for me...so I'm the inconsistent element at this point, lol!
 

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