Dumping Ballistol and Gun Oil

[manbat]

I'm usually well stocked, but at the point where my cleaning supplies are running low. I shoot multiple long and short BP arms quite often and therefore clean a lot of guns and go through a fair amount of cleaning and lubricating products. I've been buying Balllitol (love it) and various brands of designated gun oil for years, but like all things gun-related, even cleaning supplies are now overpriced. I'm on a quest to maximize the money spent on the enjoyable part of the hobby - shooting, as opposed to the unenjoyable parts - like cleaning.

I don't have time to mix my own concoctions, currently clean with hot water, abandoned the need for bore butter and other excessively priced solutions years ago, and use a coating of oil to protect bores and chambers from rust. So, I'm no purist and not in need of ideas on that end. However, I'm looking to replace Ballistol and gun oil with bulk products to advance my quest - like 0W synthetic motor at $8 a quart as an example.

What bulk and readily available products do you use for cleaning and lubricating?

 

[TDM]

I’m anxious to see the responses. It will be good information.

 

[Piquant]

There was a guy I dragged race with, he had expensive engine work done and good equipment. But wanted to cheap out on fuel. I told him he already had the head in his mouth he might as well swallow the tail. Don't cheap out now and ruin your engine and chance to win. Give it what it needs. My 2 cents worth.

 

[Dryball]

For cleaner I use "Awesome". Dissolves powder residue well and available at "Dollar Tree"

 

[Campbell]

50 years of water and Crisco for me.

 

[waarp8nt]

Switching some things may be good for cost saving, but how will it harm the finish of your gun if you spill a little? I've purchased a few muzzleloaders for cheap because the bluing had been removed in spots by a careless person using harsh chemicals.

I do double up and use Paslode air tool oil for my air tools, air rifles, paintball guns, modern guns and as a last word oil in the bores of my muzzleloaders. It's synthetic and I have never seen a spot of rust internally in my air tools, air rifles or paintball guns. One large bottle has lasted me for years, its my go to gun oil.

 

[user 48702]

I don't skimp on oils and cleaning products, no matter whether it's for use on guns, tools or machinery. I feel the cost of a tried and true proven product is not worth chancing a bulk substitute that may or may not work as intended. I like Ballistol so I buy it, a little goes a long way. I use a lot of Marvel Mystery Oil which is not very expensive, about $8 for a quart. I use the Marvel Mystery Oil for light lubrication of moving machine parts as well as for drilling or cutting tools. It is primarily a light mineral oil with added solvents, probably about 5W viscosity.

I know folks who will buy an expensive $700 to $1,000 plus Stihl chain saw, which is one of the best brands in my book, and then buy the cheapest SAE 30 weight oil for their gas mix because they want to save money. They then wonder why after a few weeks of using the saw they have burned the engine up or damaged the rings and piston at a minimum. Sure SAE 30 oil will mix with gasoline and provide lubrication and limited protection, but will separate and eventually settle to the bottom of the container; therefore, if you don't shake the container each time you use it, one might as well just use straight gasoline.

 

[waksupi]

Look up "Ed's Red". Simple, cheap, effective formula.

 

[manbat]

To clarify, I've stated that my quest is to replace which does not mean skimp, be cheap, or substitute with a product of lesser capability. Lesser cost does not always equate to a lesser capability. I could coat bores and chambers with used axle grease for $0 and it would inhibit rust as much as any rust inhibitor - obviously impractical. And, we aren't talking about intricate machinery or engines here that require specialized lubrication.

Also, replace does mean substitute with something that would be harmful to guns that are worth significant $. That would be stupid.

 

[64Springer]

People who wear clothes need labels. People who play golf need labels. People who shoot guns need labels.

If you went back in history, you'd see gun owners using things like olive oil, coconut oil, whale oil, lard, bee's wax or an all natural concoction to lubricate their cherished firearms. The stuff must have worked. Because we have functioning examples of guns that were built 250 years ago. And the closest thing they had to high end cleaning products was the creek behind the house and the bar soap in the kitchen.

What worked back then will still work today. But the advertisers have people believing that their rifle will immediately deteriorate into a pile of rust if their new and improved product isn't purchased.

 

[TDM]

I don't skimp on oils and cleaning products, no matter whether it's for use on guns, tools or machinery. I feel the cost of a tried and true proven product is not worth chancing a bulk substitute that may or may not work as intended. I like Ballistol so I buy it, a little goes a long way. I use a lot of Marvel Mystery Oil which is not very expensive, about $8 for a quart. I use the Marvel Mystery Oil for light lubrication of moving machine parts as well as for drilling or cutting tools. It is primarily a light mineral oil with added solvents, probably about 5W viscosity.

I know folks who will buy an expensive $700 to $1,000 plus Stihl chain saw, which is one of the best brands in my book, and then buy the cheapest SAE 30 weight oil for their gas mix because they want to save money. They then wonder why after a few weeks of using the saw they have burned the engine up or damaged the rings and piston at a minimum. Sure SAE 30 oil will mix with gasoline and provide lubrication and limited protection, but will separate and eventually settle to the bottom of the container; therefore, if you don't shake the container each time you use it, one might as well just use straight gasoline.

I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil a lot, still have a couple of cans. Just kinda forgot about it. I’m going to add a small container to my lube shelf.

 

[TDM]

Look up "Ed's Red". Simple, cheap, effective formula.

I found lots of old post for it, but not the actual mix amounts. Do you know?

 

[akroguy]

Cool water and soap to clean. Whatever oil…motor, Marvel or 3 in 1. I use grease on sliding interfaces like lock parts.

 

[springfield art]

50 years of water and Crisco for me.

Everyone has their own concoctions; kind of like bathroom tissue, everybody has a preference!

 

[TDM]

I have to admit that the forum has changed/opened my mind with regard to lubricants. I used to be very rigid in what I used and how I used it. Now I’m a lot more flexible.

 

[tenngun]

Clean with water, dry. I do use WD40 on a patch to make sure any water is wiped out. Dry again then lard and olive oil in the barrel.
3in one is cheap, and I’ve used lots of ‘gun oils, but I can’t say they work better then olive and animal fats
Clean and dry is the most important

 

[waksupi]

I found lots of old post for it, but not the actual mix amounts. Do you know?

• Acetone, 1 quart
• Kerosene, 1 quart
• ATF, 1 quart (Dexron III synthetic recommended)
• Mineral spirits or turpentine, 1 quart
• Lanolin can be added for extra protection

Mix together in a metal bucket and store in a metal, one gallon, gasoline can. Most plastic gas cans work fine, but acetone evaporates rather quickly and can also dissolve many plastics if left in contact with them. Since metal gas cans are tough to find holding less than five gallons, I use a new one gallon paint can from the paint or hardware store. Label the gallon can well, then pour some into a half pint Mason jar with a metal lid for regular use. Acetone is extremely hygroscopic, meaning it literally absorbs moisture, so you want to keep the exposure to air to a minimum. You can literally mix this stuff up by the drum full and dunk entire firearms in it, but there are a few caveats to its use. Basic use and short contact of this mixture with plastic firearms, such as composite stocks or pistols or even plastic accessories will not normally cause any issues. Likewise, short contact with most wood stock finishes causes no problems. But beware, some painted surfaces can be easily marred by this, as well as many commercial firearm cleaners, so don’t go dribbling it on your kitchen cabinets or vinyl floors. If you spill some, wipe it up immediately and give the surface a quick wash with soap and water. As with any product, testing it in an inconspicuous location is always a good idea. Use Ed’s Red the same as you would any gun solvent. It is especially effective at cleaning bores and powder residue, as well as for lighter lead fouling. It works wonders with corrosive ammunition deposits, though you’ll want to thoroughly clean with hot water first to dissolve the salts.
I introduced this to Serengeti Rifle Co. and Montana Rifle Co. when I worked for them, and it quickly became the shop standards.

 

[TDM]

Great information @waksupi thank you!

 

[manbat]

Ed's Red and MM Oil sound good, but if I keep to my quest they don't sound like options - no mixing just buying a bulk replacement, and MM Oil cost by the ounce is >= Ballistol.

 

[wtilenw]

$100 and your done for life My $.02

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