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Dumb Wood Question

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john s mosby

45 Cal.
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Okay, someone help me out here. What is "Grade 5 curly maple"? How are maple stocks graded? Dixie lists maple stocks as Grade B at the low end (No curl) up to Super Premium (curl throughout). The inbetween ones are, A, P, P+, P++.
I was reading an ad in Muzzle Blasts that said the stock was grade 5 curly maple?
 
p= 0-25/30% curl
2p= 35=60% curl
3P = 70=85% curl
4p = 90=100% curl
this is the % of curl over the lenght of the stock.
5p is really tight curl with the width of the curl be pretty consistant. it can be also harder to do inleting and carving on when the curl gets that tight. makes a butiful stock when complete but sometimes can IMO be over the top .
 
John,
Seems each wood merchant has a different grading system. Wayne Dunlap's grade 5 is curl through most of the stock. Who is the seller, or who's wood are they selling? That will help narrow it down. However, it's always better to see and feel the wood first hand... :m2c:

Later
I.C.
 
Iron Crickett

I think you're right, some things are better if you can see them in person.
Actually, why I asked the question was because I saw an ad in Muzzle Blasts Magazine about a "Traditional Flintlock Rifle Workshop" being held next February. I checked out the web site and it's a 6 day workshop held at Virginia Tech in Appomattox, Va. An instructor, Troy Roope, works with you as you build an Issac Haines style Lancaster Flintlock. He says he uses grade 5 curley maple stocks, custom 50 cal barrel and lock, but doesn't say what kind they actually are. I e mailed him for more information.
Being retired now it would be kinda neat to spend a whole week with a good rifle builder helping me. I can't really afford it but thought I would check it out anyway.
 
Regarding the flintlock workshop in February, if you register early enough, you can request a specific caliber, instead of staying with a .50.
I've already signed up, maybe I'll see some of you there :)
 
The list above is a standard grade for figure for most woods. However what allot of places do is buy stocks or blanks and then bump the grade IE a good 2P or P++ is real close to a 3P or P+++ so the sell it as the higher grade and get more money from you. Even thought there is guidelines set by the industries its really Buyer be where.

I have seen this happen lots more over the last years so I have now got to where I specifically ask the % of curl in a maple stock. If the salesman cant tell me the lowest % in their grade I ask for someone who can, if there isn
 
As was said, usually the higher number equates with fancier or more curl.

If I were going to this school, or even if I wasn't going to the school but intended to build a Kentucky style rifle, I would buy the highest grade I could afford . If it wasn't as fancy as the other students or the instructors wood, that's the way life is. At least I would have the best I could afford.

I have learned over the years that it is unwise to buy less than you can afford. This is not because the plainer wood is of a lesser quality. It is because after you put all of your blood, sweat and tears into the gun you owe yourself the best you can afford.

Several guns I've built were intentionally plainer grained than I could afford. I usually had some great reason, like, "This is a boys rifle. His old man wouldn't have paid high prices for fancy wood for a kids gun." Or, "Plains Rifles usually didn't have highly figured wood, so I'll by the low priced stuff and save money and be PC at the same time"
In every case, I kicked myself in the butt for being so "PC" and wished I would have used wood with a fancier grain. :(
 
Zonie

I have to agree with you. Get the best you can. I can't afford to go to the school right now. The dead line to have your money in is just a few weeks away. But if I could go I'd sure get the best piece of wood I could afford. I've only built a few kits but I've learned it's a good bit of work so why would you use a piece of wood that's plain jane when you can use a better piece.
 
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