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Dry balled my ML

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I never had a problem pulling a dry ball. My ball puller has a brass centering collar, and a relatively short fat screw. I generally swab between shots so fouling is not usually bad. I use a T handle and they pull pretty easy.
Some years I do a few practicing. other years I never forget the powder.
I just packed for hunting tomorrow, and I will be carrying a puller - for me and other guys.
 
Bent Sight said:
I haven't dry balled my Renegade yet, but I have every confidence I will. I had planned on using my air compressor if a stuck ball remover would not work.

How many PSI does the CO2 produce?...
New CO2 cartridges gas pressure is around 800 psi.

That's why they work so well for powering air rifles and paint ball guns.

It's also why the CO2 powered discharger for removing "dry balls" from muzzleloaders works so well.

Sometimes shop air from an air compressor will work but its 100 to 120 psi is really no match for a CO2 powered tool.

Just for fun (yes, I'm weird), the sealed area with a .50 caliber patched ball in the bore has an area of .1963 square inches.

120 psi of air pressure will create a force of 23.56 pounds on the ball. As I said, that might be enough force to move the ball or it might not.

800 psi of gas pressure in the CO2 cartridge will create a force of about 157 pounds on the ball.

That's why one of these things can fire the ball thru a plasterboard covered wall. :shocked2:

When using one of these things to clear the bore, be careful about where the gun is pointed. :v
 
Hmm!... :hmm: So a powder charge that generated 5000 psi would exert almost 1000 pounds of force on the ball.......
And people still don't believe in obturation .. :hmm:


Now if I did my math somewhat right, bouncing my 60 gram ramrod on the ball at a velocity of 10fps would only apply 0.125 pound force or 1/8th of a pound.... :hmm:

Am I anywhere close Zonie?
 
Excellent information to know, thanks. Anyway, that darn ball shot out of my Renegade like a champ. Now, I just need to adjust my concentration level when I'm running my mouth at the range.
 
I always try to shoot em out. Last time I dryballed was just starting in on the Dutch system and 8-1 patch lube and TOO DARN THICK denim patch. I had to beat the short starter hard with my palm which was sore for a month! Got that sucker started though :grin: I regret to admit that was not a good thing. I got it about 14" down the barrel and NO AMOUNT of hammering with a steel rod (not hollow neither) would budge that ball another fraction of an inch. Shooting it out was not an option now. C02 not working. Air hose not working. Had to have my "drunk mechanic" build me a tool. He was watching me use his vise and my ball puller while sipping his Keystone Light (bitter beer face-YUK, and said stop, I have an idea. He built a really cool lil slid hammer thingy and after 15 min we had it out. Never again! I threw 2 yds of that denim in the trash and went back to pillow and mattress ticking! :doh:
 
SgtMaj said:
The B.I.D. CO2 kit comes with three cartridges and a hand apparatus that you screw the cartridge into and it pierces it, then you have an attachment that fits right over the end of the nipple, you compress the handle and whoosh, out flies the patched ball.
Looked them and found several vendors. Put one of these on order. Great tip! Thanks!
Griz
 
NO AMOUNT of hammering with a steel rod (not hollow neither) would budge that ball

I wouldn't blame the patch. It may have contributed a little to tightness but not cause the problem you describe.
I'll surmise, from here :wink: , that you were not using pure soft lead for the ball. In fact any size ball can be loaded into almost any bore if it is made from soft lead. (e.g. .54 ball into a .45 barrel, I've seen it done) Going down part way and stopping is possibility indicative of another problem too. Is there a constriction in the bore. If it will slide part way it should go all the way. And, even if it doesn't want to move, use of a solid rod, material doesn't matter, wood, steel, brass and a hammer will move it. I'll look at other responses for their ideas. Good luck.
 
Was a hornandy ball so Im saying pure lead. I agree it should have gone down. I disagree it did NOT. Yes we whacked the danged snot outta it with the but on concrete and a pillow. Hit so hard was worried about the stock cracking even with the pillow!

No other issues with the bore, no bulges, patches when cleaning feel smooth all the way in n out. Yep I did of course dampen (wet down :redface: ) the patch in the bore with oil and it wasn't budging. Even with the handy dandy slide hammer it came out slowly in fractions of an inch in 15 min. 45 years in this and never seen the like :idunno:
 
No matter what method you use to blow the ball please be careful. At the club I shoot we use a scuba dive tank to blow the ball. I was assisting with a dry ball and when the ball exited it then rang a metal clangers at the fifty yard line.needless to say I was impressed but it gave me a new respect for the process. I know of some co2 Guns that reach .22 velocities. I have never dry balled but I lie about it every time asked.
 
Re Dryballing - There are three kinds of BP shooters -

1. Those to whom it has not yet happened.

2. Those for whom it HAS already happened.

3. And liars. :thumbsup:

tac
 
Ames said:
I am not going to open myself up to more dangerous practices, I just want to ask the question.
Can you use one to clear out a loaded gun? One that has powder behind the ball?
According to Buffalo Arms, yes.
I would make double sure of where it was pointing though. I understand excessive compression on real black powder can set it off. Maybe one of our resident pros on black powder can help enlighten us more on this. I too, would like to know.
Griz
 
M.D. said:
I'd run some soapy water down both ends, get the fouling dissolved and patch wet then pull the sucker with my jag screw and range rod.

Didn't run water down from the breech and there was no fouling, first load of the trip (and last) :shake:
 

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