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double set trigger question

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Buckskinn

45 Cal.
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I placed this post in my original "what have I gotten myself into" post, which may put some people off as it isn't the most positive title... And really it's misleading, because I am having a ton of fun doing this project. Anyway, thought I would move it to new topic and see if I get some advise.

I am working on the trigger and have a couple issues. First issue is that I have very hard trigger pull when using only front trigger as I inlet the trigger just a touch too far back... In the pic, the sear is hitting at the black mark. Also, after setting off lock, I can feel that little notch catch on the sear.
20190131_150216f.jpg


My questions are; can I reduce trigger pull at all without moving entire assembly (I have already drilled and tapped tang screw)? I see that Dave put a firmer front trigger spring on, I may have to look into doing this as well... If not, not a real big deal, as I can't see shooting this much without setting trigger anyway.

Also, can I file off the front trigger blade sloping down to remove that notch where the sear catches and do this with negative impact?

Second issue, as instruction dictated I filed down both trigger blades until they cleared sear in set position with and allowed lock to be cocked. No issue there. The problem is that when trigger is unset, the rear trigger blade hits sear. I did try adjusting main spring, but it is too weak if reduced to where blade is not impeding sear. What is the best remedy? I've seen several ideas, not sure which is optimal. File down main spring? File down main spring shelf? Do I file rear trigger blade only? If so, file straight or angled? Bowed? Or do I file down both front and back trigger blades evenly? (this is what TOTW instructions show)
20190131_153236c.jpg


Thanks for the help!
 
The way your front trigger is hitting the sear is giving poor leverage. As you pointed out the trigger is to far forward. Tuning the lock for a lighter sear engagement will help make the single trigger pull better. The rear trigger bar should set lower in the tripped or unset condition then what your photo shows. This photo of a cheap set trigger shows the way I like a unset rear trigger bar to be.
IMG_0271 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
On this one a set screw allows the spring to be lifted a bit to allow the trigger to drop down. I would not weaken the spring on yours but would decide how to keep full power and allow the rear trigger bar to set lower. Consider filing the short tab at the base of the spring to change how the spring bears on the rear trigger. Note how the spring lays nearly flat to the plate.
 
Look towards the sear spring to reduce pull. Looks like the bar on the rear trigger is too high. Good thing about commercial triggers is replacement parts.
 
Yeah, it is too high, just curious on best way to lower it. I think I will start with the shelf that the spring sits on as Phil recommended and slowly file it.
 
I’m not suggesting you file on the trigger but on the rear tab on the spring. It’s the bit farthest away from trigger. The goal is to change how the spring bears on the trigger thus allowing the trigger to lay lower.
 
Buckskinn
You placed the trigger assembly too far forward if that black line is where the trigger blades are contacting the sear arm.
The contact place should be about centered between the two pins that hold the front and rear trigger in place.
That is the reason the front trigger pull is so heavy.

As for the rear set trigger keeping the lock from holding full cock, the blade on it is much too tall so I suggest filing it down, quite a lot.
It can be filed at an angle with the part closest to the front trigger getting most of the metal removal.

Ideally, IMO, the rear trigger blade should be just lightly touching the sear arm or better yet, clearing the sear arm when the rear trigger is in its released state.
The rear trigger blade trips the sear out of the full cock groove due to the momentum it gets from the rear trigger spring, when it is released by the front trigger so, it doesn't have to touch the sear arm when the rear trigger is not set.
 
Ok, what trigger is that? RE,L&R?
Have you finished the wood to the trigger bed? Meaning the trigger is too deep, can you raise the trigger in it's bed without affecting the stock finish?
Yes, you can take that notch off.
 
It is a Davis trigger that I got from Chambers. Thanks for all of the advise, it was exactly what I was looking for and about what I was expecting, based on my own research. All in all several ways to skin a cat... I've been mulling this over and decided to combine several of the advised mods. Unfortunately I had already drilled and tapped the tang screw, so couldn't move it back anymore.

First thing I did was to taper the front trigger to eliminate the notch in the rear of the plate. That did wonders! Dropped trigger pull more than half. Now front trigger pull is around 4-5 lbs, reasonable...

Then I went to work on the rear trigger. filed it down some with a slant similar to the front trigger, but opposite end and slanting away from where the sear meets it. I also slightly filed the bench, where the main spring rests on the trigger. I then cleaned up the front of the spring. I am now at the point where I can cock the lock set or unset. Fire set or unset and trigger pull is very acceptable! I am very happy camper... Thanks for all of the input, very much appreciated! I still may need to take a bit off somewhere as the rear trigger is still resting on the sear when cocking, but may leave that as it might be slightly helping my front trigger pull. I will test it with some thump tests to make sure it does not go off unintendedly.
20190201_213613a.jpg
20190201_213545a.jpg
 
Yeah I use your vids a lot for reference, very helpful.

I'm close to where I need to be on trigger. Rear trigger is still resting to hard on sear.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
I'm close to where I need to be on trigger. Rear trigger is still resting to hard on sear.
Then lower the trigger plate. Place a spacer(s) like small washers, or wood or re-bed the trigger to get it off the sear.
It's a common issue,, don't worry, just take the proper action to fix it.
 
Just in passing as the above posts seem to have solved the trigger performance..... If you drill wrong on a steel part like the trigger bar you can fill that hole with the correct size screw and then cut it off a bit proud and squash it down and then file to match the outer part of the bar homing it with some dimples on the inner side and or silver solder it in place. Then just re drill in the new position...…

Just a thought for future reference
 
Just in passing as the above posts seem to have solved the trigger performance..... If you drill wrong on a steel part like the trigger bar you can fill that hole with the correct size screw and then cut it off a bit proud and squash it down and then file to match the outer part of the bar homing it with some dimples on the inner side and or silver solder it in place. Then just re drill in the new position...…

Just a thought for future reference
I've had to do that, it works quite well.
 
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